Tighten your caliper bracket bolts!

[Hokie]

It happened again (same side, passengers) about 3 weeks ago. I was driving down to Denver and could hear this weird metallic rattle/clunk.

You can get to the two caliper bolts without taking the wheel off. Just turn the wheel hard to the left (for P-side, hard right D-side) and crawl under there to access the bolts from the backside of the wheel. I re-tightened mine in a gas station parking lot in less than 2 minutes. Its a 15 mm bolt, luckily I keep wrenches in the truck.

I need to get some Blue thread locker

 

[rwenzing]

I need to get some Blue thread locker

Threadlocker is a good idea - new factory bolts come with it already applied o the threads. However, it is not a substitute for tightening them to 85 lb-ft with a torque wrench. Undertorqued caliper anchor bolts still come loose, threadlocker or not.

 

[Hokie]

Threadlocker is a good idea - new factory bolts come with it already applied o the threads. However, it is not a substitute for tightening them to 85 lb-ft with a torque wrench. Undertorqued caliper anchor bolts still come loose, threadlocker or not.

Torque wrench is next on the list... thread locker is cheaper for this grad student budget

 

[techieman33]

Torque wrench is next on the list... thread locker is cheaper for this grad student budget

Sears is supposed to have them on sale for $40 or so the day after thanksgiving. That's when I plan on finally getting one.

 

[ThePhoenix]

Xdviper - thats ball joints....my 96 sport had that. It was the lowers...kinda embarrassing at times!

 

[Fusion213]

Mine had gotten loose about a year ago and someone else had posted that their caliper mounting bolts had become loose and to check it out(clunk noise). My bottom bolt got loose again to the point where it fell out.

 

[96eb96]

It wouldn't hurt to get new bolts either, especially if they were loose and under stress. When high torque bolts are used more than once or twice, they stretch, deform and lose their holding strength. I believe the new bolts have dry threadlocker. Some applications call for replacing these bolts if the caliper is removed.

 

[CDW6212R]

FYI, most Ford full size vehicles have front caliper bolts(not the greased sliders) which are grade eight bolts. Those will last longer than the vehicle, longer than any other bolt in the vehicle. New caliper bolts will have the nice loctite added to them, save the money and do that yourself.

Bolts should be tightened to a level based on their size and strength. The rear caliper bolts, and slider bolts, are tiny, thus don't over do it with those. 20lbs.ft. or so is more than enough on those, they are only 5/16" bolts. The front caliper bolts are about 1/2" in size, and as top strength bolts they can take 80-100lbs.ft. of torque, countless times. Regards,

 

[greenbeer]

This happened to my 01 about a month ago! Girlfriend was driving it, hit the breaks and Boom! Scared the crap out of her. It was missing the rear bolt and the caliper swung up and destroyed the wheel...I then bought all new bolts from Ford for about $12 each.

Loose caliper mounting bolts are an all-too-common result of home brake jobs. The torque spec is often much higher than you might guess by "feel". Torque the mounting bolts to spec and add threadlocker if you like. (Example: The short, thick caliper mounting bolts on 98+ Rangers and Gen2 Explorers should be torqued to 85 lb-ft; the long, smaller diameter caliper bolts to 24 lb-ft)

The picture below shows what can happen if a caliper bolt backs all the way out. The victim in this case was a Ranger but its brake parts are common to Gen2 Explorers. It occurred coming to a stop following a long downhill pavement run after a few hours of night wheeling. The owner lost a wheel and had to scrounge a bolt to get home - obviously, the consequences could have been a LOT worse.

 

[roadrunner2154]

That is the problem, the manuals are causing the issues with the sticking slider pins. Those pins will remain lubricated possibly for the life of the vehicle, if they are not disturbed.

Removing the bolts is disturbing those sealed lubricated parts. If you stop following the manual telling you to do that, the problem may never happen again. No offense meant to you, but I have little respect for the writers of the manuals for any products. They seem to research the concepts, and then interpret them into what they think is best. A real mechanic would tell you the same thing, they know the real tricks to make tasks easier and better.

Unless there is real evidence of contamination of any brake caliper slider pin/bolt, do not loosen it or remove it. Leave it tight, and simply remove the caliper bracket bolts. Regards,

I gotta tell you, I've always previously done it the way the manual says. (removing the caliper from it's bracket), and I've never had any trouble. The slider pins are inside of a sealed boot which doesn't open unless you purposely pull it apart.

Also the slidder pin/bolts are much easier to get off than the caliper bracket bolts. I stripped the crap out of the lower bolt this weekend trying it the way you suggested. Apparently some "real mechanic" decided to tighten the bolts with his air wrench.

 

[CDW6212R]

The large caliper bolts have locktite on them, and you should use a drop when installing them. I've been doing brakes by doing just those for over 25 years. They are large bolts which do require a lot of torque, about the same as a lug nut, 75lbs.ft. Using a long ratchet is wise, and getting yourself in a proper position to be able to keep the socket flush on the bolt is important.

Some vehicles like the old Explorers do not give you a choice, those make you deal with the grease and pins every time.

 

[silver surfer13]

im getting an occasional clunk clunk of the passenger side..maybe thought it was the hub..sometimes it clunks then goes away if hit a bump..maybe i should check it out

 

[96eb96]

I gotta tell you, I've always previously done it the way the manual says. (removing the caliper from it's bracket), and I've never had any trouble. The slider pins are inside of a sealed boot which doesn't open unless you purposely pull it apart.

Also the slidder pin/bolts are much easier to get off than the caliper bracket bolts. I stripped the crap out of the lower bolt this weekend trying it the way you suggested. Apparently some "real mechanic" decided to tighten the bolts with his air wrench.

The wrong grease on the slider pins is the worst thing you can do. It will eat the rubber boots in a few weeks and the corrosion will weld the pins in the bracket. On some Ford cars that bracket is a "high failure item" in the NAPA catalog. If you do disturb the boots, please use a synthetic brake grease that is compatible with rubber.

 

[explorerhot]

This happened to my 01 about a month ago! Girlfriend was driving it, hit the breaks and Boom! Scared the crap out of her. It was missing the rear bolt and the caliper swung up and destroyed the wheel...I then bought all new bolts from Ford for about $12 each.

Happened to me too, one bolt fell out going down the highway one night, I heard the klunking and pulled over to check under to see what was loose. It was dark and I couldnt see anything. When I put it in reverse and backed up, the caliper poked a hole in my rim.

 

[97sprt4x4]

This happened to me too. I sent my exp to the shop for break pads and rotors. and about 2 days after i got it back it started clicking. i was going down 78 a highway near me doing about 80 and i tapped the breaks to slow down enough to move into the next lane and i heard a sound that sounded like a big rig down gearing. now not seeing any 18 wheelers around this scared me low and behold it was my car. i pulled off as soon as i could and pulled into a gas station. I was told by teh mechanic it was fine but i should take it down to him. But as i went to pull out. i tapped the breaks and the front of my car locked up and the back end came up off the ground.. quite fun.. and low and behold the caliper had locked it self between the rim and the rotor locking my LF tire tight... not too happy with that shop..

 

[24anonymous]

Your not kidding, mine came all the way out, I never heard anything. I put the trunk in reverse and the pass tire locked up, the calliper flipped backwards and hung on the wheel...

It came off again while driving, luckily I was coming up to a stop sign right beside a church, I went to slow down and about 1/2 way through the slowing down process it locked up and slid. Be very carefull..

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Tighten your caliper bracket bolts properly too, I had one back out while driving the other day. The caliper and bracket were free to swing on the one bolt, rubbing the inside of the wheel.

It happened about 1 mile from home, so I was able to make it back to the driveway with white knuckles!!

 

[Hokie]

It happened about 1 mile from home, so I was able to make it back to the driveway with white knuckles!!

I started carrying a 15mm combination wrench in the glovebox

 

[rwenzing]

If you use threadlocker AND torque to spec per the shop manual, you will have no trouble. Factory installed caliper anchopr plate bolts do not fall out. That invariably happens after a brake job when the bolts have not been retorqued to factory spec.

For 2nd gen Explorers, the short, thick anchor plate bolts must be torqued to 85 lb-ft and the long, slender caliper slide bolts to 24 lb-ft.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, use a drop of loctite on each for insurance. Use the red for sure on the big bolts.

FYI, if you wisely never take out the small front caliper bolts(those with rubber boots), they may never loosen or corrode. They don't need top come out to do brakes, and keeping them sealed by not taking them out will keep them in excellent condition.

To do the 95+ front brakes only take out the big bolts.