Timing Chain Front Cover Removal (problem)

[rizzjc]

Hmm, never thought about that. That would suck, 'cause that thing is HIGH DOLLAR, and I ain't replacing it! I'll look though. Maybe I'm lucky for a change. Not likely, but maybe.

So, I was thinking about this a little more. The key on the harmonic balancer, that fits over the crankshaft is always going to line up in the same place with the harmonic balancer sprocket. If that is off from what it should be, then why would you need to put it all back together to see it? You should only need to look at the harmonic balancer, and know where it is SUPPOSED to line up, to determine if it is off. If I remember correctly, the key for the crankshaft lines up exactly with the "missing tooth" on the harmonic balancer sprocket. What I assumed was that the cps knows how many "ticks" from TDC the missing tooth is, and figures the timing that way. If that is not correct, then my timing is way off.

Does that make any sense?

 

[rizzjc]

So, just to follow up on the above, I took a few pictures before I put it back on.

This shows the key on the shaft, and the "missing tooth" on the sprocket are lined up:

These photos show some numbering, and a white dot (amazing it has lasted so long) on the side. I don't know what this is for, but my assumption has been that the two keys lining up is what I'm looking for. If these numbers were an indication of being off from 0 then I'm off almost 30, which is a lot, and I would think that would be a big problem.

Phew, so now that I am done fighting with the water pump and the oil cooler water hose (b*tch!) I just have to put the pulley back on, and then work on the radiator. Light at the end of the tunnel!

 

[rizzjc]

Replace a hose clamp that walked off, and fill it up with antifreeze, and I'll be ready for a test run. 8 weeks has been a LONG time. If I have to do another project this big again I think I'm done.

 

[Turdle]

Yeah there isn't a whole lot of room down there-
You are on the home stretch-just take your time.

 

[rizzjc]

Success!

Well, a long road, but took a trip around the block with no problem. Had to "burp" the system, and just had radiator flush and water in it, so I haven't taken any long trips yet, but all appears good. I think I'll finish it off with a new radiator cap, and finish the flush and fill with new coolant tomorrow, and I'll be good.

Felt pretty good when it turned over. I'll be a bit nervous for a couple thousand miles, but I was careful and meticulous.

BTW, can anyone tell me if there needs to be a hose clamp on the overflow hose that runs along the top of the radiator to the filler neck? The manual refers to one, but I don't remember one being there, and I can't find one around the garage.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good for you Joe, well done. Timing chains will always have that kind of stretch, even after about 5000 miles. It only amounts to a degree or so, having plastic cam gears is a much bigger worry, Ford was bad about those.

Is there a timing mark on these 302's, I haven't looked before?

That radiator vent hose lays along the top, there are a couple of small plastic clamp connectors which snaps into two of the radiator holes.

 

[rizzjc]

Thanks Don. I have the clips, but don't remember there being a hose clamp where it connects to the filler neck. I added one anyway, just in case. No harm done. I think I'm gonna take it to the local lube place to get them to flush the radiator. I've been flushing it several times, and it is still getting gunk out. That, and it's a pain to get things moving in there every time. I heat the engine up, turn the heat on high, and get her warmed up. Then I drain cold water out of the radiator. When it gets near empty, it starts to get hotter, draining out of the block I guess.
Anyway, after all the time and money I've spent on it, it's easier to let someone hook it up to there machine and clean it out good (which in hindsight I should have done before I took it all apart).

 

[CDW6212R]

There isn't a clamp at the radiator/vent connection. It isn't needed, there is no pressure of fluid in the hose. If the hose end seems deformed at all(bulges out), then cut off about 5/8" and install it. You might have to slide those two clips along the hose a bit, that's all easy to do.

The coolant, are you sure that the thermostat is opening properly? Is it brand new, and is it a 195 rated piece? Don't install a 180 or less in the mid 90's or newer Fords, they cool much better than older Fords. If you did see "gunk" from the radiator to start with, a flush would be a first task to do. I usually say take it out and straight to a radiator shop, that used to cost under $50, and cleaned them beautifully. The price has gone up a lot, so just flushing one is a good first thought.

When you get it clean, add a best mixture of coolant, not what they want you to use. Buy a bottle of Water Weter for about $7, water pump lubricant for about $3, and a gallon of the best anti-freeze. Buy an extended life pure anti-freeze, I prefer the orange colored types. If you can also buy a couple of gallons of distilled water.

Drain out as much of the coolant as possible, empty the overflow bottle(you might in advance at home spray in it with a water hose and drain it). Pour a small amount of water in first, then the two additives, then about 3/4 of the anti-freeze. Fill the rest with water, add the other quart of anti-freeze to the overflow bottle, and start the engine and top off with water until the thermostat opens. Close the cap, and check/fill the overflow bottle for a couple of days.

That coolant mixture will cool better than just about any other mixture. Anti-freeze cools better than water, so only use as much as needed for your Winter cold. The Water Weter improves cooling, plus it helps lubricating and anti-freeze qualities. Good luck,

 

[rizzjc]

I've got some Amsoil extended life antifreeze, but put in some cheap stuff (store brand) since I'm not happy with how much I've gotten flushed out yet. I also have the distilled water on hand as soon as I get it all cleaned out. Place down the street will flush it for me and put in my fluid - probably around $50, so I might just do that. The thermostat is fairly new (replaced in within the past year), but who knows what's all over it. I think the water ain't hitting it yet, so it's not opening.

Where is the sensor? I'm staying under 200 degrees, but again, the water in the radiator isn't circulating through, 'cause it comes out cool after bringing the truck up to temp. I'm too tired of taking things apart right now, so I might just give in, and let the guys with the machine do it for me. A small price after the work I just got done doing to it. I'll top up the radiator once more, and see if that kicks things a little.

Hey, one other question. The 5.0 is supposed to have an engine block drain plug. Anyone know where it is?!

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes they are very small set scre type plugs, pipe threads about 1/8" in size. Those plugs usually are too seized to come out. Being in NC they may not be too corroded. Most people won't go to the trouble of trying to remove those. Good luck there, you are almost finished.

 

[rizzjc]

OK, I won't bother then. Was mostly curious 'cause the manual mentioned it, but the drawing gave zero indication where it is.

I REALLY needed to take care of the ticking headers, but after all of this work, I'm not sure I'm up to that job.

 

[CDW6212R]

I forgot to mention where those drain plugs are. When next you get under the truck, try to look along the bottom edge of the block, either side near the back. They should be near the freeze plugs towards the back of the blocks.

 

[rizzjc]

Thanks, I'll check it out.

 

[junglejet]

Oil pan gasket.

Excellent write up! I feel some what confident tackling this project 2nd gen 99 mounty V8 5.0 302. 97,500 mi. My water pump seal is showing signs of failure, scince i am going to tackle this project i might as well do the timing chain.

I have a factory manual on CD, haynes, and most important you folks as resources to tackle this project. I am still not clear on the oil pan gasket/front cover interface. The factory manual recomends removing the oil pan to change the timing chain due to the fact the oil pan gasket is a one piece part. From you write up it appears you were able to change the timing chain without removing the oil pan. I am intreasting in learning more about your experience in this particular area any advice or information would be greatly appreciated.


I am currently reserching a replacement water pump and timing chain. So far looked at advance auto and rock auto. For water pump, other than motorcraft there is ASC, wieand and cardone. has anyone had any experience ASC, wieand and cardone would you recomend anything other than Motocraft? Any suggestions on a timing chain?


Thank You for you time.

Happy Holidays!

Josh..

 

[Turdle]

Excellent write up! I feel some what confident tackling this project 2nd gen 99 mounty V8 5.0 302. 97,500 mi. My water pump seal is showing signs of failure, scince i am going to tackle this project i might as well do the timing chain.

I have a factory manual on CD, haynes, and most important you folks as resources to tackle this project. I am still not clear on the oil pan gasket/front cover interface. The factory manual recomends removing the oil pan to change the timing chain due to the fact the oil pan gasket is a one piece part. From you write up it appears you were able to change the timing chain without removing the oil pan. I am intreasting in learning more about your experience in this particular area any advice or information would be greatly appreciated.


I am currently reserching a replacement water pump and timing chain. So far looked at advance auto and rock auto. For water pump, other than motorcraft there is ASC, wieand and cardone. has anyone had any experience ASC, wieand and cardone would you recomend anything other than Motocraft? Any suggestions on a timing chain?


Thank You for you time.

Happy Holidays!

Josh..

Since you seem to be the only one even touching a timing cover-I'm going to plug this in here--

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198044