Tips on A/C removal? | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Tips on A/C removal?

yeah the teflon tape the hell out of them, lol. but i made sure the part that is threading into the radiator is flared. i figured we use hose to connect the lines to cooler so it shouldnt hurt to have a hose from rad to those hoses.
 



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They do make low pressure hydraulic hose (aka rubber transmission hose). Thats what I'm using on both the Van and the X. The one on the X has been there for more than a few years.

~Mark
 






got all the lines etc done, had a leak, fixed it.. was my fault.. now back to the a/c topic..

after i removed all the a/c stuff i got a non a/c belt, so it wraps around the ps pump.. now my ps pump squeals a little louder then usual, yeep checked fluid... plus my volt gauge has fd up.. but a/c stuff is all done, thanks guys!
 






maybe just cause the belts new and tighter? inno. mine doesnt squeal with no ac and a new belt tho..
you took the ac radiator out didnt you? cant remember if you did or didnt

you broke the voltmeter gauge removing the ac? lol

time for a custom dash with real gauges! or pillar gauges and gauges in your extended center console!
 






yeah a/c rad out.. its busted.. bottom two coils are rotten. its funny, i do one thing and break something else... or mess something up... i dare not tell wife because she will say "told you not to change it to non a/c, you would just break something else" i dont want the "told you so"
 












ok so while working on another problem i realized i did something back when i did the non a/c conversion. what does this go to? it was hooked in i believe to the a/c so can i just eliminate the "t" now or do i need to have a hose on it ran to the filter box?

nonboxgap.jpg
 












nonbox.jpg

lol, large hose much?

i looked at your pics again, the non ac box doesnt have a vac res on it. so cap that t off.
as for the other hole on the air box, you should have a tube going under the battery, looks liek your intake tube. and theres a vac line on it. that attaches to the air box instead.
 






was the only piece of scrap hose i had laying around, so i can take the hose off and just cap that "t"?


as for the intake tube going under the battery, that was gone a long arse time ago when i did the snorkel

Recap: just cap the "t" and i can cap the spare hole in the air box?
 






Just remove the T and put in a splice. You don't need it to be a T. Heck, just replace the vacuum line with a single longer piece of hose.

The 2 connections on the top of the air box are for the thermactor control. That's the little valve in the intake hose (before the filter) and lets hot air from the exhaust manifold go into the intake track.

Basically, you put vacuum to the air box fitting and when its cold it lets the vacuum through to the line right next to first one. That line goes to the thermactor valve itself. If your not using the thermactor system then don't run the line to the air box in the first place (either of them).. If you do run the thermactor system, then do run both lines.
 






yeah im pretty sure i removed it, when i redid the snorkel, so i can just eliminate both lines in the box?

i got rid of the piece that connects to the grille and heat sheild
Photo10281645_1.jpg
 






yeah im pretty sure i removed it, when i redid the snorkel, so i can just eliminate both lines in the box?

yup.. remove both.. its not like they are going to do anything since the part they control isn't there anymore.

~Mark
 


















so lets make sure i got it right, connect 1a to 1b and eliminate 2a and 2b? just dont wanna mess it up to much more

nonboxgapedit.jpg

(did the picture show?)
 









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ok its done, made it look a tad bit cleaner to, i ended up having a barb fitting left over from hho that fit just right, so two less hoses but two more holes in the air box.. yay two more filler bolts... truck looks like it has tons of piercings from the misc bolts filling holes.
 






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