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Torsion Key = torsion twist
 






I like to see how much of a difference the stock torsion keys are to the ones listed.. I got a feeling the difference is so minimal that the claims they make aren't true.
 






that's what i was thinking, i was just wonderin if anyone has used them
 






I couldnt imagine anybody wanting to, if you think about it, the only way to lift the front without a kit would be increasing the pre load on the spring which is a torsion twist.

I too would like to see what these keys look like because if they are different from the stock ones at all, it would probably just make it so you wouldnt have to tighten the adjuster bolt quite as much to get the same amount of torsion twist.

In the end you are still just doing a TT
 






my buddy told me about them the other day and i remembered them, and his uncle put them on his dodge durango and they lifted them alot, 3 inches more than stock, unless he's stretching the truth
 






and he probably could have saved a few bucks and a hassle replacing the adjuster by getting a longer bolt and tightening away. he probably isnt stretching the truth but the 3" he got is just torsion twist, with the new keys he just wouldnt have to twist as much to the point where you run out of bolt.
 






BigDave!!! said:
and he probably could have saved a few bucks and a hassle replacing the adjuster by getting a longer bolt and tightening away. he probably isnt stretching the truth but the 3" he got is just torsion twist, with the new keys he just wouldnt have to twist as much to the point where you run out of bolt.
Also the ball on the end of bolt is still in the socket on key, and, it is less likely to bend the bolt if there is less of it sticking thru the adjuster

It would be like indexing the key another step up, just not quite as much.

Can you not just index the key a notch?
You can for lowering, in fact I have heard of trucks that were shipped with a key one notch off.
 






jtsmith said:
It would be like indexing the key another step up, just not quite as much.
thats exactly the phrase i was looking for! i was thinking, **** this is hard to explain without pictures or anything. that is the difference. the keys are just indexed different
 






BigDave!!! said:
thats exactly the phrase i was looking for! i was thinking, **** this is hard to explain without pictures or anything. that is the difference. the keys are just indexed different
i lost you guys on that phrase index diff. thanks though
 






I believe what he means by index is you pull the key off the torsion bar and move it one notch or so over and reinstall on the TB. Move it closer to the bottom of the truck and it will lower. Move it further from the bottom and it will raise. I did that to my buddies Xterra. He was gonna pay some one 50 bucks to do it. :rolleyes: Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 






Yes
The torsion bar end is a hex--or it looks like a bolt.
The "key" looks like a funny wrench
You take the
"wrench"(key) off the "bolt"( torsion bar), and move it a notch, free end 1 notch up for lower, one notch down for higher.

I would bet doing this will put you at max heighth, with adjuster bolt almost all the way out. This is an assumption--remember. try it before you drive it.

My assumption stems from a lowering thread, which I can't find now.
However, the member noticed the level stance could only be achieved with the passenger side bolt all the way in, and drive side all the way out. Even then the passenger side was lower.
He re-indexed the passenger side key, now is level with bolts nearly even.

Get it?
 






kool thanks i think ill try it has anyone tried this on an explorer, were there any problems/in the long run? oh and does anyone know how much new ford stock torsion keys cost?
 






Probably a stiff ride. :confused:
 






I bought these same keys to lower my truck. I wish I had taken pictures but yes it allowed for a further drop while still using the adjustment bolt. The hole is indexed slightly different than the stock. I am about to order some new torsion bars so I will try to remember to photo the difference between the two when I change the bars out.
 






kool thanks i would appreciate that
 






when you did the index tt did it go through all right? did it work, you actually moved it one notch down and twisted it back in?b/c i tried today at my auto tech class but was stuck on a part, where i would have to take one of the ball joints off to let the lower a arm drop and then i found out the pickle fork was broken, and had to stop there. i atempted but it looks like it could work.
 






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