Torsion Key lowering question

[HighLifeKing]

Ive been looking through all the post on here and done some research on Torsion Bar key made for lowering. Ive found these chassis tech keys on sites like Truckn and Airbagn, but they have two keys listed for the 98 explorer at two different prices, a model Arm-07 ($70) and Arm-08 ($120) they both say they can be used for lowering or lifting 2-3" which dosent make sense to me, seems like there would be two different designs-one for lowering and one for lifting. Any insight into this? Ive also found a lowering key on Ebay from Canuck Motorsports ford $50, says 1-3" drop- says it fits 95-03.

Ive got a 98 4dr v6 AWD- 24" wheels and alot of audio in the back so its sagging back there. wheel to fender cleareance in back is 2.5" and front is 4", im wanting to level it out and also drop it a little more. so im thinking 1" blocks in the rear and the front will have to go down 2.5". So ill have 1.5" clearence to the fenders. I know ill need a camber kit and to trim the bumpstops but what torsion bar keys should i get? im not interested in flipping the keys-id rather buy lowering keys-or can i just lower the stock keys to get that much drop? Any input is appreciated guys, thanks

 

[swshawaii]

Airbagit's description shows the Arm-07 are DROP keys, and the Arm-08 are LIFT keys.
As a precaution, call them to confirm stock. Many mixed reviews with this company. GL

http://www.airbagit.com/category-s/2068.htm

 

[HighLifeKing]

Yeah i seen that- but the descriptions are the same,they both say you can raise or lower with them. And if you go to Truckn.com they say Arm-08 are the drop keys and arm-07 are for lift. Plus there prices are reversed on Truckn.com. But yes, i will be giving them a call tomorrow to find out. thanks

 

[HighLifeKing]

I got the keys figured out, the more expensive ones are for lowering ($120)
Now im looking into the Canuck Motorsports Drop keys on ebay that are $50-anyone have any experience with these keys? Ive seen somewhere that when you put these keys on top of the stock ones they are identical, hows that a drop key.

But i did put my car on pavement today and was surprised by the numbers, wheel to fender measurments were 2.5" in the back and 4" in the front- so to me that looks like its sagging. But when i measure from pavement to bottom of body its 14" back to 14.2" on the front. I guess the fender cuts are a little different from front to rear. I also found that the passenger side sits 1/2" higher than the driver side.

Now im confused, im simply trying to fill in the wheel wells more so that my rims appear bigger (even though there 24") So im still thinking 1" blocks in the back- but if i lower the front to fill in the wheel wells the same as the back (2.5" drop after rear is dropped 1") The car will be out of level (1.5" higher in the back now) This overall drop should leve me with 1.5" wheel to fender. I just hate the larger gap in the front fender.

Heres what i found-

Beltech 1" lowering block kit 3.25" u bolts and 2.25 blocks $45.00
Ingalls engineering adjustable camber kit 29000 $40.00
Chassis tech Arm-07 1-3" drop $120.00

Or the Canuck Motorsports 1-3" drop $70

Is this what i will require?

 

[swshawaii]

Keep in mind that using re-clocked drop keys achieves the same thing as loosening the bolts. You are only changing the lower control arm angle. Ride quality and torsion bar pre load would be the same with either method. Benefit of the keys is more adjustment, consider using just the bolts. Carefully take measurements, count turns, and mark them for reference, it may be all you need. By adjusting the front first, you can easily determine your rear lowering block height preference. GL

 

[HighLifeKing]

So the Drop keys will only add even more drop over what the stock ones can do with bolt all the way loose or even out? And reguardless of what key is used the ride quality will simply get worse the lower i go? That makes sense- if im only looking to drop it say 1.5"-2.5", do you think the stock key will allow this?
Okay- so i should get the camber kit to start with- then loosen up the stock keys and see what i can get out of them-right

I know i could get a 1/2" block in the rear without replacing the ubolts or end up with the 1" kit.

 

[swshawaii]

Drop keys are sold by dealers claiming they retain a stock ride when they don't. They change the LCA angle like a torsion screw drop, but will give more lowering adjustment from the reindexed hex position. Generally, dropping will soften the ride, lifting will make the ride firmer. For you, it's about the right combination of lowering distance, shock valving, and bump stops to obtain the optimum ride quality. You're on the right track, adjust or remove the bolts to your visual reference. After that, determine the rear block size you need, add camber kits, and align. Keep posted and GL.

 

[HighLifeKing]

Ok, i lowered the front end down so that the front and back have the same gap between the fender- 2.5" So i managed to get 1.5" drop out of the front-and the torsion bolts are nearly all the way out- it ended up with 1/8" gap between the key and the stop plate. I can obviously see the camber is way out on it (top of wheel leaning in) I put a level on my 24" wheels and it seems to be about 3/4" out at the top. Do you guys think the stock camber adjusters will get them back into alignment of will i need to get the camber kit?

 

[Turdle]

You will probably need the new camber kit . Typical adjustment is max positive as possible, 1 degree positive is plenty though.