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Towing situation

jay1028

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 6, 2004
Messages
145
Reaction score
4
City, State
N.E Florida
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 XLT V8
I have been towing our RV for the past 15 years with no problems. The last three times out, things have changed. After driving at 58mph/2800rpm without overdrive for 2 hours, the vehicle ran fine until I got off at an exit. The idle began to get rough and try and die. I kept it running until the traffic light change. Taking off from the light, was a lot of stumbling and then when it hit 3000rpm, it all smoothed out until the next traffic light. This went on for 15 miles until we got to the campground. After pulling into the campground check-in area, the idle smoothed out and all was normal again. Driving around town without towing was fine. All the gauges were in the normal range and no abnormal smells.

On the trip home, same thing happened after 2 hours of towing. Still have 1/4 tank of gas. Feels like running out of gas, but only happens after towing for a period of time. Plugs and wires are only 30k old and fuel filter replaced 1k miles ago. This same thing happened a year ago with the old fuel filter.

I can't have this happen again. Before I go to the dealer, any ideas?? I tow with o/d off always.

Jay
 



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Sounds like the fuel filter again. You may have had junk in the tank that clogged the new filter.
 






Could also be your a coil pack or camshaft position sensor going out.
 






EGR valve may not be completely closing...check for carbon boogers stuck in it

Bill
 






Where was the temp gage indicating? And do you have an infrared no contact temp gun to double check with? Sounds to me like the high RPM while on the freeway got the engine hot, and when it cooled everything was good. Possible heat affected the intake gaskets, or maybe the EGR valve not closing as posted earlier.
 












Dirty fuel. Run injector cleaner through there. Tube or two. Good to go.
 






Temp gauge was at half way like it always is. Motor didn't smell like it was over heated. I can't see that the filter would take two hours to cause trouble. I have had a coil pack go bad on a other car and it was missing at all speeds, hot or cold. Wouldn't the egr affect idle?

How long does fuel pump last? got 135k on it now.

CEL is burnt out. I don't want anyone to read the codes and accidently clear them before the dealer can read them.
 












I don't know about others, but my code reader will not accidentally erase the codes. I have to tell it to do that.
 






Yes, I expect you to give me some educated guesses to persue. If I didn't need your opinions, I would have already gone to the dealer and paid $100 for them to read them.

I have had a reader in the past that after it read the codes, it automatically cleared them. It was one of those $49 ones, not a professional reader. I won't use it anymore.


BTW fuel is from three different stations the three different times. So we may rule out fuel.
 






OK, now that you have some educated guesses, are you any closer to remedying the problem? The codes are an invaluable help with todays vehicles.
 






Really? Start with basics, fix the CEL lamp or pull any codes should been the first thing you did. The only way you "accidentally" clear codes with the cheapie reader is if you leave it plugged in for too long-get the code then disconnect it. Asking for help is one thing, playing guessing games with folks genuinely trying to help you is just downright disrespectful.

Bill
 






It costs exactly zero dollars to have the codes read at advanced or autozone. They will not clear them for you. Would start there first and foremost.
 






it really doesn't matter if the codes get cleared. without fixing the problem, the codes will just be reset. not finding out what the codes are doesn't make any sense. the PCM sets the codes so that you know where to start looking for a problem. you can't take the code at face value, but it gives you a place to start looking. trying to "guess" what's wrong is a waste of time and blindly replacing parts is a waste of money.
 






Alright, before there are any more posts here, I am withdrawing my requests.

This is a very big problem to me and I am not going to take a chance with an autozone or whatever counter guy read the codes and possibly mess something up. If the codes get cleared, the codes will not be set again until I take it out for a tow again and I am not up for that. I don't know how many more times this can happen before I get stranded with a family in the vehicle.

going to the dealer and pay them to fix it correctly.

Thanks to everyone for the advice.
 






We all can understand this could be a big problem. But, it seems you don't want to start with the basics. Get the chip off your shoulder and accept the inevitable. Get the codes read. Even if they get erased you will have written them down, and have at least some good idea where to start looking. DO THE BASICS FIRST
 






We all can understand this could be a big problem. But, it seems you don't want to start with the basics. Get the chip off your shoulder and accept the inevitable. Get the codes read. Even if they get erased you will have written them down, and have at least some good idea where to start looking. DO THE BASICS FIRST

with his attitude, it's probably best he go to the dealership.
 






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