Tranny aux. filter/cooler questions

[Skibum1989]

I have been looking at basic mods for my X and from what I understand the aux. transmission filter and cooler comes highly reccomended. I read that 18 page thread about that procedure but still have some questions before I install it.

My transmission coolant lines both to and from the radiator are hard-lined. I understand that a tubing cutter should be used to cut these lines. Do I just cut somewhere along the feeder line to radiator, slip the "in" tube of the aux. filter apparatus over the already cut line from the tranny, and secure with a clamp? Then cut again just before the feeder line feeds to the radiator and slip the "off" tubing of the filter apparatus over the cut feed line to radiator and secure again with a clamp? Seems like this procedure is a bit prone to leaks, please correct me if I interpreted it wrong.

Would it be best (or even possible) to replace the entire tranny tubing system with rubber tubing? If so, what materials do I need to get?

I also plan on adding a transmission cooler while I'm at it, would I use the same cutting procedures on the tubing that feeds from the radiator, thru the aux. cooler, then back to the tranny?

Thanks in advance.

 

[410Fortune]

Okay the hard line leaves the transmission and goes into the radiator at the top.
It then leaves the radiator at the bottom and goes around to the front of the radiator support and enters the factory cooler. This is a rubber, or soft line.
Then it leaves the cooler and returns to the trans as a hard line.

In order to plumb in an additional cooler you only have to cut the hard line returning to the trans, flare the end with a simple flare tool and run some 3/8" transmission cooler line from the stock cooler to the inlet on your new cooler, then from the out of your new cooler to the hard metal line you cut.

OR

you can replace the stock cooler with a better unit, this requires less plumbing.
You should also consider a gage to monitor trans fluid temp

 

[Skibum1989]

Thanks for the quick reply fortune,

I just took a look under the hood and it seems like mine is hard wired the whole way, and also there is no stock cooler, exept for the radiator. Right now the hot tranny fluid goes from the tranny to the radiator where it cools and returns, all thru hard pipes. Perhaps our models are different or mabye I'm just retarded, I have a 95 XLT, can post pics if you would like.

Here is what I am looking to install:
Summit Aux. Transmission filter (Summit Racing # SUM-G4980)
Summit Transmission Cooler (Summit Racing # SUM-G4962A)

 

[410Fortune]

no no no I believe you dude, hahaha

How thick is your radiator? is it almost 3" thick? You are hoping so because if its not you got the single core unit and that should be the first thing you replace AFTER you add a trans cooler.

All you have to do is cut the hard line, about 4" after it comes out of the radiator and turns 90 degrees. Flare the end and run a rubber line (high temp trans cooler line) with hose clamp to where you want to mount your new cooler, run it to the top which will now be your inlet.

Where it comes out of the coooler now run a rubber hose over to the pass side frame rail, cut your hard metal line in this spot again anf flare it, attach hose and BLAMO you are good to go.

to answer your original question, yes you can of course run all rubber lines, however the metal ones are better so keep as much of it as you can, they dissipate heat FAR better, they dont get pinched, and they dont melt on hot exhaust, ask me how I know, I now have 3/4 hard lines

 

[Skibum1989]

Okay the radiator that the transmission fluid runs thru is about 1 inch thick, I suppose this could be called the stock transmission cooler, silly me. Then behind that is the larger, 3 inch thick radiator and directly behind that is the fan.

 

[410Fortune]

no no no
You are looking at the AC condensor I believe.

If your radiator is 3" thick thats a good thing, some Explorers came witha single core unit, but they are rare.

If your truck had a stock trans cooler you would see it mounted all the way up front behind the grill, its about 10" x 12" in size.

 

[Skibum1989]

Sorry for the confusion, okay I think my AC condenser is 10 x 10 x 1 in and is located almost directly under the engine at an angle.

 

[Skibum1989]

The mental clouds are starting to clear. So am I right in assuming that this procedure calls for no new fittings/plugs into the radiator or the tranny?

Flaring pipes is something completely unfirmiliar to me, could you please explain that a bit more? thanks.

 

[Rustydog]

i'm glad that you are looking into upgraden you trans w/ a spining filter. it might be a little bit better to splice with a compresion to barbed, this is what i used. it holds up to hi temps and presure better than just clamps and flares. you can pick them up for a few bucks at most home improvement stores. look for a 3/8" compresion and make sure that you use only power steering/tranny line is a little more but well worth it. ive got pics but am not cool nuf to post here.

post how it works out

b

 

[Skibum1989]

Hey rusty,

Interesting method, how exactly does that fitting set-up work? Could you please email me your photos? ( zachcharat@hotmail.com ) It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[410Fortune]

I have been running simple single flare metal tubes with hose clamped hoses for many many years, never s single leak.
I did have a rubber hose melt on the exhaust, but that was my fault.
the pressures inside the cooling system are not great enough to require high pressure fittings.

A simple flare tool is available at any hardware store and is simple to use.

 

[Skibum1989]

So I flare the hard tubing with a flare tool at the 3/8" setting, then slip the rubber 3/8" tranny tubing over the flared metal tube, and secure with one metal clip? How does the rubber tubing fit over the metal tubing with it's wider "flared" opening? Will this cause a bulge in the rubber tubing's opening to accomidate the flared tube?

 

[410Fortune]

oh my goodness. Rubber hose stretches, a flare and hose clamp are how rubber to metal lines have been connected for years, in low pressure systems (like carbed fuel systems, etc)

Yes you have it correct, it will work out just fine, but you might be in over your head and might want to get some help if possible, or just keep researching. I jsut dont want you to get half way in to this project, get stuck, and have no running car.

 

[Bronco638]

Ski,
Jaime is describing a procedure to minimize the possibility of leaks. Flaring the end of a steel tube provides a better seal when interfacing with a rubber line. It is not necessary to flare the tubing ends (but recommended). I have seen the use of double clamps to ensure a good seal. IMO, if you're a person that's religious about maintaining your vehicle, you'll be more inclined to periodically check hoses, fittings, nuts and bolts, to be sure everything is tight, so, you could forego the flaring. If you're more the type that doesn't want to worry or doesn't have time to keep an eye on such things, then flare the tube and double clamp as well.

I chose not to flare my tubing ends (I have no flare tool) but I did double clamp.

Getting back to your original question about plumbing a remote filter and aux. cooler. The easiest way to ID the lines is to locate the hard line that enters the top of the radiator. This is the line that carries hot fluid FROM the tranny to the radiator. The bottom line carries cool fluid TO the tranny. After much discussion (on these message boards), I decided to install my remote filter in the line FROM the tranny BEFORE the raditator (I'd prefer to keep any debris out of the radiator and aux. cooler). Yes, I used a mini-tubing cutter to remove the elbow in the hard line (as the line turns toward the driver's side of the vehicle - between the radiator and front cross member). The remote filter base is mounted on the frame rail, just in front of the sway bar. Again, after much discussion (here), I've decided to install the aux. cooler after the fluid goes thru the radiator. So, I will using the mini-cutter to remove the other elbow in the line TO the tranny. The fluid will then be routed to the aux. cooler and then back to the TO line (return to the tranny).
One Forum member accidentally verified what some of us have discussed in-depth; if you put the cooler BEFORE the radiator, you can actually heat the fluid before it returns to the tranny. The radiator uses a fluid-to-fluid heat transfer method. So, if you're coolant is hotter than your tranny fluid (as it comes from the aux. cooler), you're tranny fluid will exit the raditator hotter than it entered (not good).

To re-itereate the loop: Tranny > Filter > Radiator > Aux. Cooler > Tranny

Sorry this was so long and I hope it helps - Dave.

 

[Skibum1989]

Ok cool, just making sure I had it right before destroying my transmission lines. Thanks for all your help fortune, Bronco, I'll let you guys know how it goes when I install everything.

 

[410Fortune]

EXCELLENT advice, I still say flare = less worries when you are in Moab and its 104 and you are 6 hours from home