trans wont shift from 1st to 2nd or 3rd to 4th

[jayreb250]

I have a 95 exploerer 4R55E trans that will not shift from 1st to second, if driving you can kinda rev it up to 3000 rpms and let off the gas and then it will shift to 3rd but wont shift from 3rd to 4th.
I rebuilt the trans because of the 1st-2nd problem also had a broken intermediate band. I replaced the band and installed new clutches and cleaned everything, reinstalled the trans still had the same problem would not shift into second, but now it wont go into 4th either, I have tested the selinoids they are within the specs I replaced the vavlebody still no improvment. I believe I reassembled it correctly but of course its very possable that I didn't. Is there somthing that I may have overlooked.
ohh I also have taken it too hte dealership and had it hooked to the computer and it said "incorrect gear ratio" but no other code.
I have been working on this thing for a mounth and its driving me crazy. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Glacier991]

explain replaced the valve body? With what? from where? Also you could have the dealership hook up the Rotunda Transmission tester they should have (tell them it's the little black box part No 007-00085) and run the transmission through the shifts from there..... but candidly, it sounds like something internal to the trannie and not external. Did you replace the TC when you rebuilt it? Wasn't there glittery stuff in the ATF? Happy to try and help here, I understand the frustration and the "I'm all alone" feeling when something like this doesn't work... we'll see it thru. You and the Board!

 

[Brain]

The "incorrect gear ratio" code can only be caused by slipping, so at least this one part of the problem isn't caused by the torque converter. There is a sensor on the input shaft, and another on the output shaft, and if the ratio isn't correct for a certain gear, it will thow this code. From what you say about having problems with the no 1-2 and no 3-4 upshifts it sounds like the bands are not applying. The intermediate band gets applied going from 1 to 2, and the OD band gets applied going from 3-4. It could be the servos...Here's a question: did you put the servos in the covers and then install them in the case, or install the servos in the case and then put the covers on? Did you even pull out the servos? Did you get the bands adjusted properly?

 

[jayreb250]

I replaced the valvebody with a rebuilt one from "TPS" (TRANSMISSION PARTS SUPPLY) I did not replace the TC, I did take the servo's out cleaned the parts and reinstalled them, I installed the servo then put the cover on, if the servo's are not working what would cause them to not work and how could I test them to verify the problem? Also I have been reading other post and saw something about setting the pump when installing it, I did not see anything about setting it in the rebuid manual does the 4r55e require this? Also I adjusted the bands according to the book, torque to 10ft lbs then backed off 2 full turns, I have checked this and rechecked it it should be correct.

 

[Glacier991]

I think we may have discovered the problem. If you inadvertantly put the wrong servo in the incorrect bore, one would not fit at the cap at all and leaked massively, and the other wouldn't have even entered the cap. Hence neither servo would be operational. Mind you this is a guess... but it fits. Nice thing is... well other than having to remove the exhaust to get at the servos... you might be able to remove them and reinstall them correctly (assuming they were not before) without removing the transmission.

The easiest way to make sure you have it right is to put the servo body in the cap... and lube the cap seal and the servo body with ATF and insert it that way into the bore... you will have proof positive you have the correct servo in the right cap. It is the caps that differ, the inner bore is the same.

Yes even the 4R's should have had the pump aligned if it was removed. If you have the ATSG manual it is on page 106.

 

[Brain]

Check out the Frankentranny thread for the servos and how they work...If the servo head didn't get into the cover perfectly, I'm afraid it could easily get stuck, leaving you without a band (or both in your case). If you have to pull the tranny out to align the pump, then that would be the best time to rework the servos (and then re-adjust the bands just to make sure). If either lip on on either servo is damaged (they each have two), replace it (they are pretty cheap at less than $10/servo).

 

[jayreb250]

so sense I did not align the pump I should probally go ahead and plan on pulling the trans back out, or should I try the servo's and see if I got lucky on the pump?
to make sure I understand I should install the servo's in the cover's not seperatly? when I was inspecting the servos the only difference that I could see was the springs, one was taller than the other. If I am right the tall one(closest to the bell housing) goes in the overdrive servo and the short one goes in the intermediate servo do you know if that is correct?

 

[Glacier991]

The intermediate servo has the more robust sprig... it WAS orange, may yet have orange on it... anyway it's the huskier one. Here's my view on pulling it.... if you don't... there is a chance you may again some day need to. When that day comes pull it and replce the bushing and have it line bored and usemy algnment tool and do it right. Or... you can align it now.. your call. I see all these trannies getting pulled and wish some one would R&R mine with my rebuilt one!! <g> I know... Do a photo post on how to R&R a tranie!!! <g> teasing. Your call but I think your servos need to be checked for sure.

 

[Glacier991]

One other thing.... did this rebuilt valve body come assembled? And if so all you did was add the solenoids? (trying to figure out where our hydraulic flow is going, for *I* believe we have a working a pump and no directable flow or pressure...yes I know jumping to a conclusion)... I mean you said linkages were ok, ... assuming that meant internal under the pan too. Any trouble with the Z link to the manual valve?

 

[Brain]

There are three things about the servos:
1) the taller thicker wired spring goes on the back (intermediate)
2) the bigger bore servo/cover pair goes on the OD (code AB on the cover), the smaller bore servo/cover pair goes on the intermediate (code BB on the cover)
3) servos and covers of different sizes cannot be mixed (i.e. sticking an AB servo into a BB cover)

Is there a chance that while cleaning them that you mixed them up, or did you keep the parts separate (OD servo/cover/spring separate from the intermediate servo/cover/spring)?

 

[jayreb250]

I have been reading your fraknestien story lots of good info!!!!!!!!!!

on the servo's I thought I kept them seperate but from what you are saying I some how got them backwards, the valve body came assembled with the selonoids all I had to do was bolt it on.

 

[Glacier991]

"ALL I HAD TO DO WAS BOLT IT ON".... Did you engage the Z link to the manual valve????? If you missed this step.. you woud have YOUR SYMPTOMS EXACTLY.

 

[jayreb250]

the linkages were o.k. the little bar on the Z that goes in the manual valve was bent a little and while trying to striaghten it I broke it and had to replace with a new one so it is o.k.

 

[jayreb250]

yes I engaged the z into the manual valve but you asking is going to make me take the oil pan off to make sure THANKS ALOT

 

[jayreb250]

I think I do have the servos backwards so I will try that first and see what happens then if it does work I will have to decide wheather or not to pull it back out to check the pump. If its not set correctly will it do any damage or just not work right?

 

[Glacier991]

Eventually it will ruin the seal....and the bushing.... I cannot speak to whether it will damage the TC or pump... I think not.... and glad we got the Z link out of the way <g>


Btw ...did you read the Diary ? Between Brain's Frankentranny and the Diary there is a TON of info here.

 

[jayreb250]

I have'nt gotten all the way through it yet but I will!!! I think I'm going to have to put yall on my christmas list you don't know how much I appreciate all this help and info!!!!

 

[jayreb250]

One other thing.... did this rebuilt valve body come assembled? And if so all you did was add the solenoids? ( I mean you said linkages were ok, ... assuming that meant internal under the pan too. Any trouble with the Z link to the manual valve?

trying to figure out where our hydraulic flow is going, for *I* believe we have a working a pump and no directable flow or pressure...yes I know jumping to a conclusion)...
I DON'T THINK I DID THAT RIGHT(THE " " THING) BUT WHERE WERE YOU GOING WITH THIS, JUST TRYING TO MAKE SURE I AM NOT MISSING ANYTHING

 

[Brain]

Just FYI - I'm going to post some pictures of the servo springs later on tonight on the Frankentranny project. Glacier's post on the A4LD is much more comprehensive about a rebuild job and a great source for info (he inspired me to create Frankentranny ; ) )

BTW, I think your pump is working as well, ohterwise you wouldn't have first and third, which have one and two clutch packs applied, respectively.

Native Texan? I was born and raised in west Texas.

 

[Glacier991]

I think what Brain and I are saying is that we think your issue is somewhere in the servos... possibly valve body. My money is on those servos. Would be such an easy mistake to make, surprised I haven't. let's hope that's it!