Transmission fluid change | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Transmission fluid change

ijag

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July 3, 2018
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Year, Model & Trim Level
99 Explorer Sport
I have a 99 Explorer sport Rwd it has 190k miles on it and Im not sure if it has ever been changed.
I wiped the transmission dipstick on tissue and its a light brown color so my question is should i drop the pan and change the filter and add some new ATF or leave it alone?
 



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Brown is not good, it should be a red color.
I would change the filter and the oil.
 






Yeah I was Planning on changing it but then Im worried that its too late and if I change it Im going to run into some problems?
 






If it's still shifting normally, Id change out the fluid.
If it's dead then a fluid change probably will do nothing.
 






It has no problems with shifting
Im going to order a Motorcraft filter but it does not come with a gasket
so would a rubber gasket from Napa be any good or stick with Genuine?
 












More important than the gasket material, is to make sure the rails of the metal transmission oil pan are straight. 99 percent of the time a used metal oil pan is going to be slightly warped at the bolt holes, these must be made flat before re installation, I use a hammer and a piece of wood on the other side for support to make the rails nice and straight. The rubber gaskets supplies with most transmission filter kits works real good, used them many times without problems, just don't over tighten the bolts.
 






I’d get a $8 harbor freight pump and a short section of thinner tube. Suck a quart or two out through the dipstick and it makes dropping the pan much less messy. I’d consider changing the power steering fluid as well. Takesthe same fluid, unless you insist on using power steering fluid. (Both will work without issue, if going PS fluid invest in a synthetic)
 






Most Ford pan gaskets are forever gaskets from the 90's on. If they are steel with rubber surfaces, don't replace them. Throw away any cork gaskets, those are only good for big emergencies.
 






I have used many cork gaskets on tranny pans, however with cork gaskets a must is the spray on "COPPER SPRAY A GASKET" from Permatex. make sure the metal pan is straight, and most important is not to over tighten the bolts, over tightening the bolts is the biggest reason for failure of cork gaskets. Over tightening causes the cork to split over time, and then leak. The factory steel/rubber gaskets are the best, but sometimes they are lost especially at repair shops, that's why I like do to all my own work!
 






I have used many cork gaskets on tranny pans, however with cork gaskets a must is the spray on "COPPER SPRAY A GASKET" from Permatex. make sure the metal pan is straight, and most important is not to over tighten the bolts, over tightening the bolts is the biggest reason for failure of cork gaskets. Over tightening causes the cork to split over time, and then leak. The factory steel/rubber gaskets are the best, but sometimes they are lost especially at repair shops, that's why I like do to all my own work!
We'll be working on a '98 soon right after we finished installing the new skid plate and bumper on the current Wrangler project. We'll take a look at Permatex cork gasket. Great tips.
 






I wouldn’t bother with cork. While it may be very possible to get them to seal and last, there are much better materials for the job these days.
 






Your trans gasket is re-useable, no need to replace it
Drop the pan, change the filter and add a drain plug to the pan
You will get 4-5 quarts of fluid from the pan drop
There are 14-15 quarts in the whole system
The drain port makes it so you can drive it, drain the pan, add 4-5 quarts and repeat. Do this 3-4 times then drop the pan again and change the filter again..

Now you are good for another 100K miles

The concern over changing old trans fluid with new and causing an issue only comes when you are hooking the system up to a flushing machine. The flushing machines can dislodge some carbon or clutch material and allow them to now be in suspension and find a place to settle in the valve body, causing blockage or issues. By dropping the pan and changing the filter you do not have this concern.
Dropping the pan once and changing the filter once is not doing much for you....you need to change the fluid from the pan several times to get it all

Another method that works well is the cooler line into a bucket, basically you run the truck until 4 quarts are pumped out...add 4 quarts...repeat until it runs red...then drop the pan and change the filter..
 






When I did the bucket method I marked a 5 gallon bucket in quart graduations. I just pumped it out until it slowed to a trickle. Then I refilled that amount. This kept the old and new fluid from mixing as much.
 






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