Transmission fluid

[Andy12]

Hello to all. I’m new on here but I have a 2016 Explorer that has 95,000 miles on it. I’ve owned it for three years now. I’ve noticed every once in awhile like maybe 2-3 time a year my transmission jerks or jumps a little bit on acceleration. So wondering if it’s worth doing the flush at this point or just draining the pan and adding some new? I pulled a little bit out with a syringe it was darker than I expected and maybe just a bit of burnt smell to it but not much if any. Thanks!

 

[94Eddie]

I don't recommend doing a flush. Just a drain and refill. Flushing can cause issues for higher mileage transmissions. Your transmission is way past due for a drain and refill. It should be done every 40k-50k miles and the PTU (if you have AWD) needs to be drained and refilled every 30k miles. The PTUs contain very little fluid and it is baked by the exhaust, engine and transmission heat. This requires that they are serviced every 30k miles. Also, don't follow Ford's service recommendations for fluids. Their recommendations are far too long and will not allow you to get the most longevity from the engine, transmission, PTU, differential etc. The engine oil and filter should be changed every 5k miles at a minimum. The differential oil every 100k miles. The brake and power steering fluids flushed every 80k miles. Coolant every 100k miles. Doing this will go a long way in getting the most trouble free miles form your drive train.

Also, if you have a V6 engine keep a close eye on your coolant level. These engines tend to have the water pumps go bad and this can result in catastrophic failure of the engine. This is due to the water pump being an internal design and when it fails can send the coolant into the oil very quickly. Any, and I mean ANY, drop in coolant level is cause for immediate concern. The reason for the drop needs to be determined ASAP. In fact, I don't even recommend driving it to a shop and instead recommend having it towed there for them to check out where the coolant leak is occurring. The 3.5L/3.7L engines are darn near bullet proof otherwise with good maintenance applied to them.

Lastly, I only recommend using Ford Motorcraft brand fluids. They are specifically made for your vehicle. Off brands are not necessarily formulated to meet OEM requirements.

 

[Andy12]

I don't recommend doing a flush. Just a drain and refill. Flushing can cause issues for higher mileage transmissions. Your transmission is way past due for a drain and refill. It should be done every 40k-50k miles and the PTU (if you have AWD) needs to be drained and refilled every 30k miles. The PTUs contain very little fluid and it is baked by the exhaust, engine and transmission heat. This requires that they are serviced every 30k miles. Also, don't follow Ford's service recommendations for fluids. Their recommendations are far too long and will not allow you to get the most longevity from the engine, transmission, PTU, differential etc. The engine oil and filter should be changed every 5k miles at a minimum. The differential oil every 100k miles. The brake and power steering fluids flushed every 80k miles. Coolant every 100k miles. Doing this will go a long way in getting the most trouble free miles form your drive train.

Also, if you have a V6 engine keep a close eye on your coolant level. These engines tend to have the water pumps go bad and this can result in catastrophic failure of the engine. This is due to the water pump being an internal design and when it fails can send the coolant into the oil very quickly. Any, and I mean ANY, drop in coolant level is cause for immediate concern. The reason for the drop needs to be determined ASAP. In fact, I don't even recommend driving it to a shop and instead recommend having it towed there for them to check out where the coolant leak is occurring. The 3.5L/3.7L engines are darn near bullet proof otherwise with good maintenance applied to them.

Lastly, I only recommend using Ford Motorcraft brand fluids. They are specifically made for your vehicle. Off brands are not necessarily formulated to meet OEM requirements.

Thanks!!

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum Andy.
I agree that a flush is not the thing to do considering the mileage. According to your Owner's Manual, the transmission fluid should be changed at 150k miles.

Peter

 

[94Eddie]

Welcome to the Forum Andy.
I agree that a flush is not the thing to do considering the mileage. According to your Owner's Manual, the transmission fluid should be changed at 150k miles.

While this is what Ford recommends it is not what should be done. The 150k recommendation has caused the failure of untold numbers of Ford transmissions going all the way back to the early 2000 SUVs and trucks. Doing this ensures Ford will have new car/truck/SUV buyers since replacing a transmission for a high mileage vehicle usually results in it being sold to a salvage yard. Also, Ford recommends 60k transmission fluid changes for severe duty conditions. These "conditions" aren't all that severe on the low end of the measurement scale.

 

[Barry Trobaugh]

I changed the fluids in my PTU, transmission and engine when I got some lift time.

The PTU is tough the first time just to get to things like the sensor (fill plug) etc, as it makes things easier just to remove the CAT for access.

The oil change is just that, drain, filter replacement and refill.

The transmission is the easiest of the three. Drain plug is easy, capture into a graduated container, note the amount removed and replace with same. I plan on changing tranny fluid every 4th oil change when on the lift. It's just too easy not to.

Good luck

 

[galbro]

Hello to all. I’m new on here but I have a 2016 Explorer that has 95,000 miles on it. I’ve owned it for three years now. I’ve noticed every once in awhile like maybe 2-3 time a year my transmission jerks or jumps a little bit on acceleration. So wondering if it’s worth doing the flush at this point or just draining the pan and adding some new? I pulled a little bit out with a syringe it was darker than I expected and maybe just a bit of burnt smell to it but not much if any. Thanks!View attachment 436374
View attachment 436375

I had what seems very similar to what you describe. Reading elsewhere lead me the suspect the solenoid pack. Bought one online, at carid I think, had my mech change it out, new fluid and filter. Did the trick, it’s been about a year now working fine.

 

[Syrsknyght]

Hello to all. I’m new on here but I have a 2016 Explorer that has 95,000 miles on it. I’ve owned it for three years now. I’ve noticed every once in awhile like maybe 2-3 time a year my transmission jerks or jumps a little bit on acceleration. So wondering if it’s worth doing the flush at this point or just draining the pan and adding some new? I pulled a little bit out with a syringe it was darker than I expected and maybe just a bit of burnt smell to it but not much if any. Thanks!View attachment 436374
View attachment 436375

I was told by a tyranny specialist that unless the fluid is burnt or some other way contaminated, don't change the fluid in the tyranny because the seals and all other rubber stuff in the tyranny won't be able to handle it unless it is being rebuilt. Just top it off if low and take it to a qualified transmission mechanic for proper diagnosis.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I was told by a tyranny specialist not to change the tyranny fluid unless its burnt or otherwise contaminated or being rebuilt because the older women bearings and seals won't handle it. Get a qualified transmission specialist to take a look. Only top off the fluid if needed

Nonsense. Fluid wears out. This myth comes from people trying to fix a failing transmission with fluid changes, which never works. If your transmission is functionally sound changing the fluid won’t hurt it.

 

[94Eddie]

I was told by a tyranny specialist not to change the tyranny fluid unless its burnt or otherwise contaminated or being rebuilt because the older women bearings and seals won't handle it. Get a qualified transmission specialist to take a look. Only top off the fluid if needed.

It sounds like the transmission specialist wants you to keep the old fluid so he can make some money when your transmission fails from lack of maintenance. With just 95k miles on the vehicle there will be no issues draining and refilling the transmission. As mentioned earlier, do not flush the transmission. Just drain it and then refill. Do the same for the PTU.

 

[Syrsknyght]

It sounds like the transmission specialist wants you to keep the old fluid so he can make some money when your transmission fails from lack of maintenance. With just 95k miles on the vehicle there will be no issues draining and refilling the transmission. As mentioned earlier, do not flush the transmission. Just drain it and then refill. Do the same for the PTU.

Here is what I meant:
At Kraken Automotive After Hours Mobile Mechanic Serving Lake County FL it's says:
Changing your fluid cannot cause any damage by itself, if everything is fine inside the transmission. The issues start to appear when you change the fluid if your clutches are already worn or damaged from use. If you go and replace the fluid after they are already worn out. this can cause slipping.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Here is what I meant:
At Kraken Automotive After Hours Mobile Mechanic Serving Lake County FL it's says:
Changing your fluid cannot cause any damage by itself, if everything is fine inside the transmission. The issues start to appear when you change the fluid if your clutches are already worn or damaged from use. If you go and replace the fluid after they are already worn out. this can cause slipping.

Yes. Like I said. If it already needs rebuilt, new fluid isn’t going to help.

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

Like mentioned already drain and fill, I'd put a new filter in too. Won't hurt it. Do it every 50k on my 96 just because I out alot of $ in that Trans and don't want ti build it again lok

 

[Ironworker40]

I just had my 2015 with 55,000 miles on it flushed. It shifts a lot smoother and I'm happy. They did 2nd rear toe link recall and a 2nd air bag recall under back seat. Rear alignment was included they did the front also. Oil change and rotate tires also so Im good to go.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’d probably puke all the fluid out of the cooler, then refill whatever volume comes out. Then in 20k I’d drop the pan and replace the filter.

 

[ProjectSHO89]

The filter is not replaceable as part of routine maintenance. It's internal and only accessible by pulling the transmission and splitting the case open. There is no pan to drop on the 6F35/6F50/6F55 units.

BTW, the quality of used MERCON LV fluid (and the transmission it came out of) cannot be determined by either smell or color. The stuff smells like dinosaur crap when it's brand new and it's completely normal for it to darken considerably in very short order.

It sounds like the transmission specialist wants you to keep the old fluid so he can make some money when your transmission fails from lack of maintenance.

More likely, the tranny guy doesn't want to get blamed for a transmission failure which was already in progress when a customer brings a neglected transmission in for a last ditch fluid change. It makes more sense from his liability standpoint to simply wait for it to fail all the way and avoid the (perception of) liability with that customer.

As noted by several knowledgeable posters, changing fluid in a transmission that is not having problems can only do good things and is a routine service.

 

[peterk9]

I was told by a tyranny specialist that unless the fluid is burnt or some other way contaminated, don't change the fluid in the tyranny because the seals and all other rubber stuff in the tyranny won't be able to handle it unless it is being rebuilt. Just top it off if low and take it to a qualified transmission mechanic for proper diagnosis.

Just to clarify, are you talkng about your 2002 XLS or transmissions in general?

Peter

 

[The D]

I don't recommend doing a flush. Just a drain and refill. Flushing can cause issues for higher mileage transmissions. Your transmission is way past due for a drain and refill. It should be done every 40k-50k miles and the PTU (if you have AWD) needs to be drained and refilled every 30k miles. The PTUs contain very little fluid and it is baked by the exhaust, engine and transmission heat. This requires that they are serviced every 30k miles. Also, don't follow Ford's service recommendations for fluids. Their recommendations are far too long and will not allow you to get the most longevity from the engine, transmission, PTU, differential etc. The engine oil and filter should be changed every 5k miles at a minimum. The differential oil every 100k miles. The brake and power steering fluids flushed every 80k miles. Coolant every 100k miles. Doing this will go a long way in getting the most trouble free miles form your drive train.

Also, if you have a V6 engine keep a close eye on your coolant level. These engines tend to have the water pumps go bad and this can result in catastrophic failure of the engine. This is due to the water pump being an internal design and when it fails can send the coolant into the oil very quickly. Any, and I mean ANY, drop in coolant level is cause for immediate concern. The reason for the drop needs to be determined ASAP. In fact, I don't even recommend driving it to a shop and instead recommend having it towed there for them to check out where the coolant leak is occurring. The 3.5L/3.7L engines are darn near bullet proof otherwise with good maintenance applied to them.

Lastly, I only recommend using Ford Motorcraft brand fluids. They are specifically made for your vehicle. Off brands are not necessarily formulated to meet OEM requirements.

All of this, yes

I’ll add that most of the big oil companies have manufacturer-specific oils, just double check which oils are needed. There are a few oils that are dealership only but it’s not many.

My oils of choice for quite a while have come from Liqui Moly

 

[94Eddie]

All of this, yes

I’ll add that most of the big oil companies have manufacturer-specific oils, just double check which oils are needed. There are a few oils that are dealership only but it’s not many.

My oils of choice for quite a while have come from Liqui Moly

I should have carved out engine oil as being one fluid where using an off brand is acceptable.

 

[The D]

I should have carved out engine oil as being one fluid where using an off brand is acceptable.

As long as it states “compatible with spec blah blah.blah” I have no reservations, at least with Liqui Moly stuff. And in the 5th gen X I don’t think there’s any super ultra mega proprietary oils, is there? Oil is whatever, there are dozens of compatible specs. Rear diff & PTU are gear oil but nothing really exotic. ATF is maybe a little specific but there are others made. I’ve been using Liqui Moly for several months including towing a small camper with no adverse affects. Coolant & brake fluid are a little more specific but nothing that isn’t available at any parts store on any corner in the country. I’m definitely not trashing dealership specific fluids either, just saying that there are legit options from the aftermarket