trashed camshaft position sensor syncronizer

[donlightbody]

I just replaced the camshaft sychro in my 1997 5.0 awd. Did the research, and all the steps according to the chilton manual. After installation all engine lights were out, went for a drive, and around a 1/4 mile, I experienced a chime and a check guage light. NO OIL PRESSURE!!! Tore it all apart and cannot remove the synchronizer. Aluminum housing moves freely but shaft in center is barely movable. inner shaft does not move when engine is turned over.

I was thinking that maybe a roll-pin came out or something of the sort.
Any suggestions???

 

[hazmat456]

are you sure the oil pump drive is the right size, there are a couple of different ones.
sorry, but it sounds like you might have to pull your oil pump. or at least your pan.
I would try to put a vice on the synchro shaft and turn it while you pull up on the housing, if the pin did shear off the gears could be wedged and holding you up.
another option would be to have a friend turn over the motor by hand while you pull up and hope the gear stays on the shaft.

 

[donlightbody]

bump. sorry

 

[Stic-o]

you bought the parts store one ...huh:


Go buy the real one from Ford, it's worth it! Been there done that. The pin shears on the crap one.

I found it easier to pull the oil pan to line it all back up. But sense you have a cross member in the way (mine was cut out for SAS) that's not a option

 

[donlightbody]

yep, got the cheap one, I'm afraid you're probably right on this. Thanks.

 

[Cobraguy]

Pull the pan?? I don't follow. This is no different than a distributor as far as the mechanicals are concerned and pulling the pan shouldn't even be a consideration for a normal replacement. The alignment tool is required however.

It sounds like Stic-o may be right on track with the shear pin. But the question is why? The camshaft drives the sensor gear...which drives the sensor itself AND the oil pump. If you sheared the pin, I would sure want to know why. Did the oil pump seize? The gear not fit the cam correctly? The new sensor seize? I really don't know how you could install it wrong and have the engine run...so I doubt it's anything you did. If it were installation error, I seriously doubt you could get the thing installed well enough to run.

I'm betting the gear is galled to the shaft just enough to make removal difficult. You may be able to use a stout pry bar and carefully force the sensor up and out. Otherwise, Stic-O has the answer...pull the engine, remove the pan, pull the pump, and drive the sensor out from the bottom. This could turn into a real project.

 

[Turdle]

The pan can be pulled on a v8 with the engine in place. Been there.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242451&highlight=oil+pan+purple

 

[Cobraguy]

Well, yes...if you want to remove most the undercarriage. But otherwise, to remove the pan, you are going to have to lift the engine.

 

[Turdle]

Well, yes...if you want to remove most the undercarriage. But otherwise, to remove the pan, you are going to have to lift the engine.

Not if you have no suspension lift

It would be much easier the pulling the engine.

Remove front diff, remove steering rack , remove the driver side cat pipe, and lift the engine a bit-the pan will slide right out.

I had suspension lift brackets in the way, and still thought it easier than pulling the engine.

 

[Cobraguy]

But Jon...you still have to lift the engine using your method. But I guess the question is...how far? To me, it was easier to pull the engine out enough to replace the pan than it was to pull the entire diff, axles, R & P, etc. Shoot...the R & P alone is such a huge pain.

Right now, my 99 is running without a front diff at all. It needs to be resealed, and so I just bolted back in some stub shafts to hold the bearings and am driving it that way. I noticed there is a ton more room there.

 

[Turdle]

But Jon...you still have to lift the engine using your method. But I guess the question is...how far? To me, it was easier to pull the engine out enough to replace the pan than it was to pull the entire diff, axles, R & P, etc. Shoot...the R & P alone is such a huge pain.

Right now, my 99 is running without a front diff at all. It needs to be resealed, and so I just bolted back in some stub shafts to hold the bearings and am driving it that way. I noticed there is a ton more room there.

I did not have to--

Remove the starter-(well I did but it was another issue)
remove the torque converter
remove bell housing bolts
remove passenger side exhuast connection
disconnect the ac stuff
drain coolant
pull engine completely from bay

I merely loosened the driver side motor mounts so the engine would tilt up on that side-from underneath. I loosened the plate to block bolts, and used a drift tool to get them lined back up

Dropping the front diff on these trucks is a 30 minute job--and probably should be done anyway to change the fluid and seals--IMO

 

[Stic-o]

The only reason I removed the oil pan was to make it easier to line up. Mine broke because the oil pump shaft was not in the sencro right (and it was cheap). To make this easier I just pulled the pan (that and I wanted to see what the motor looked like at 145k) Removed oil pump and shaft, I then re-instaled the syncro and then put the shaft and oil pump back in. Super easy to line up then. No problems sense And the motor look great

 

[donlightbody]

wonderfull

 

[Stic-o]

if it's just the gear that's easy The gear is steel, so you just need a telescoping magnet.

 

[donlightbody]

is still in there. even tried prying with a big pry bar. no good either. think the roll pin may have sheared and slid out of the shaft but still be through the gear and hanging out stopping it from coming up through the block? (what a wonderfull thought that is)

 

[Stic-o]

The problem is you have to remember the gear needs to twist as it comes out. It will not oull straight out.