Traxda lift

[SClark08]

Follow-up:

I installed my 1.5" front/rear spacer lift on 3/22 and had the vehicle aligned at the next available opening, on 3/24. Afterward, I noticed two issues: an infrequent but noticeable dull thud when braking or accelerating, and rear suspension noise—particularly when turning up a steep driveway or backing to driver's side, up my modest driveway.


The first issue was resolved by dismounting the front struts, double-checking the blue thread locker and torque between the spacer and coil top, and then reapplying blue thread locker and re-torquing the strut/spacer assembly at the body mount to 50 ft-lbs.


The second issue stemmed from skipping a step during installation: loosening and re-torquing the suspension components at ride height. Not having time to tear it all apart again, I opted for the easy route and took it to the dealership (also to verify that I had properly torqued the rear suspension components). At turn-in, I specifically asked them to lift the hub to ride height, loosen all suspension bolts, and re-torque to spec. While I had initially followed the service manual specs, the dealership informed me they "tightened everything up to make it safe to drive." 3.5 hours and $210 later, the noise was still there.


Frustrated, I dismounted the rear tires yesterday, jacked the rear hubs to ride height, loosened all fasteners, and re-torqued everything to the specified values (I did the same for the front - just to be sure). Problem solved. I took it for a 15-mile loop—including tight, winding back roads, steep driveways, and a mix of city and highway driving—and it remained completely silent.


Here are the morals of the story:

1. If you ask a dealership to do something specific and they don't, follow up and hold them accountable.
2. Anytime you change the resting position of your suspension, always loosen and re-torque at ride height.

Bonus tips: I'd highly recommend doing all this before getting an alignment. After yesterday's test drive, I noticed my steering wheel clocked about 15–20* to the driver's-side when driving straight. Better yet, for a 1.5" lift, you likely do not need to fuss with the tie-rods at all. Also, doublecheck that you have enough throw for your torque wrench before loosening anything.

I'm off to the dealership tomorrow to correct my alignment.

Moral #3: Do it the right way, the first time.


Reference Specs: Ford Explorer - Suspension - Chassis

Front Suspension Torque Specifications:

- Front Lower Arm Outboard Nut: 76 lb-ft (103 Nm)

- Front Lower Arm-to-Frame Bolts: 221 lb-ft (300 Nm)

- Rear Lower Arm Outboard Nut: 173 lb-ft (235 Nm) <<< This was by far the biggest PITA

- Rear Lower Arm-to-Frame Bolt: Stage 1 - 66 lb-ft (90 Nm), Stage 2 – 180*

- Tie Rod End Nut: 52 lb-ft (70 Nm)

- Front Stabilizer Bar Link Lower Nut: 129 lb-ft (175 Nm)

- Front Stabilizer Bar Link Upper Nut: 129 lb-ft (175 Nm)

- Front Strut and Spring Assembly Upper Bolts: 41 lb-ft (55 Nm)

- Front Strut and Spring Assembly-to-Wheel Knuckle Bolts: 166 lb-ft (225 Nm)

Rear Suspension Torque Specifications:

- Lower Arm-to-Frame Rearward Bolt: 184 lb-ft (250 Nm)

- Lower Arm-to-Frame Forward Bolt: 166 lb-ft (225 Nm)

- Lower Arm-to-Wheel Knuckle Bolt & Nut: (258 lb-ft (350 Nm)

- Lower Arm Vertical Link Upper Bolt: 76 lb-ft (103 Nm)

- Upper Arm-to-Wheel Knuckle Bolt & Nut: 76 lb-ft (103 Nm)

- Toe Link-to-Wheel Knuckle Bolt & Nut: 129 lb-ft (175 Nm)

- Vertical Link Lower Bolt & Nut: 258 lb-ft (350 Nm)

- Rear Stabilizer Bar Link-Lower-Nut: 76 lb-ft (103 Nm)

- Rear Toe-Link-to-Wheel Knuckle Bolt & Nut: 184 lb-ft (250 Nm)

- Rear Shock Absorber Lower Nut: 59 lb-ft (80 Nm)

Note: you'll want adequate clearance under your vehicle to work the control arm frame bolts. I didn't have enough throw for my torque wrench to fit, when my car was sitting on 6-ton jack stands.