Trouble with my Ranger

[boose]

2000 2.5L 2wd automatic

At times(totally random) it wont start. Nothing. Replaced starter, nothing.
This is totally random and will do it with no ryme or reason.

turn key. get dash lights, radio works, lights work but no start.
No crank, No attempt to start. No noise from under the hood that would indicate
its trying to start. Replaced starter, still does it. ive had it in my mechanics shop 4 times and he cant find anything. batt. good. Alt good. Starter good.
it starts for him. I have to have it towed to him. last time was 3 saturdays ago
started right up, I ran an errand, pulled into my drive and parked it. couple hours later went to start it and NOTHING!!! Key turns but nothing happend.
Tried several times sat and Sun to no avail. had it towed to mechanic and he said monday when he got in it started right up. Its been starting fine since but its just a matter for time before it does it again ( i know from expirence)

Any ideas?
anyone know about a shift interlock solenoid? or shift lock actuator or ignition switch connector? Do any of those sound possable?
Do any of you know where these things are in my ranger and can point them out for me?

Thanks in advance.
Peace

 

[Red FX4]

Have you tried moving the shifter back and forth in "Park" while turning the ignition to "Start"?

 

[boose]

Have you tried moving the shifter back and forth in "Park" while turning the ignition to "Start"?

Thanks for the reply... Yes, many, many times. Also tried starting in P N D and every combination on the shifter.

 

[Tbars4]

..Do you have a starter solenoid relay on the fender? Could be going bad..

First thing I would do is check for stored codes as this may point to an issue which can save you time and money.

..I'm thinking it sounds like an electrical short which may be a pain to chase..

..Another item would be the connection going to each of your coilpacks as I had one snap off while driving..Your motor uses one of the coil packs to start the engine so sometimes just swapping the coilpack can temporarily resolve this issue if it is no start and this coil pack is going out..

..Again I think it is an electrical short of some kind..

 

[boose]

..Do you have a starter solenoid relay on the fender? Could be going bad..

First thing I would do is check for stored codes as this may point to an issue which can save you time and money.

..I'm thinking it sounds like an electrical short which may be a pain to chase..

..Another item would be the connection going to each of your coilpacks as I had one snap off while driving..Your motor uses one of the coil packs to start the engine so sometimes just swapping the coilpack can temporarily resolve this issue if it is no start and this coil pack is going out..

..Again I think it is an electrical short of some kind..

If a coil pack/ coil wire issue wouldnt the starter turn? or the motor attempt to crank just not fire?

Not sure about the starter relay. Guess i should judt replace it if its not to expesive.

Thank you for your reply

 

[Red FX4]

I don't know how the shift interlock switch works in your automatic transmission but it may be similar to the way backup light switch works in my manual transmission.

There should be a switch in your transmission that is activated or deactivated when in the park position. This switch can go bad and give you the kind of problem you are encountering. In my case, the switch is threaded into the side of the housing and is just threaded out and the new one is threaded in to replace. Of course the electrical connector must be disconnected and reconnected also. You may be able to use a volt-ohm meter to test it before replacing it.

I don't know if this switch connects to some type of solenoid or just sends a signal to the computer. I will try to look up more information in my 2002 work shop manual to see if it has any information that may help you. Your 2000 Ranger may be considerably different so don't expect it to be of great help.

 

[Tbars4]

..Let me first say I hate chasing electrical shorts and failing electronics/electrically controlled items..(thinking this is your issue)

..The Coilpack used for startup or computer to coilpack plug harness (wire connection) (not coil wire) may create the same issue..This connection is often leaned on by others when working under the hood and literally can snap off.

..Any loose or worn connection for your starting system would do this...I bought a new set of battery cables (Corrosion issue is common on these cables for no start shorts also ) and from the factory the connection of the small wire to starter solenoid relay was not crimped properly = no start sometimes..

..A ground short of any of the computer to sensor wires would also create this issue..I had a solenoid purge valve that would ground out on the battery tray during slight right turns and all systems were completely dead but had dash lights..

..A failing starter would give a similar issue too and only a load bench test would show it failing before it actually goes out..

..Loose battery connections, Dead cell in the battery, or battery going south would do similar especially after starting the first time and next time no start..

..this should keep you busy for a while..

 

[SensRanger]

I had a similar problem, twice. The first time was a bad transmission range sensor, but I could always get it to start in N, you said you've already played with that (though if it's failing, could still be the issue maybe). The next time the problem was a bad ground. Something you've probably checked but just in case. I have the 4.0 and there is a braided ground strap going from the back of the intake near the starter to the firewall. It was rusty and about 90% severed, enough to prevent the starter from working but other electricals seemed unaffected. I removed it and hooked a nice new cable from an alternator bolt to the battery negative terminal and things have been fine since.

 

[zekew64]

It might be corroded contacts in your ignition switch. As there are no problems when the truck starts, but you have no problem when you try and turn the truck over when it doesn't work, it could be that the "start" contacts in the ignition switch are corroded. Also, the neutral/start safety switch is the switch located on the transmission; this keeps the truck from starting in a postion other than Neutral or Park. For this, check the cable tension for your shifter lever, as a loose cable can keep a truck from engaging in gear or disengaging from a gear and going to a different one. Lastly, check the connections and grounds for your entire electrical system, including the ECU/ECM. Some people I've talked to have had issues with corrosion on the backside of the ECU/ECM, and as a result, have had intermittent power/starting issues.