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Turbo Explorer????????

Geminidj2000

Active Member
Joined
May 9, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Denver
Year, Model & Trim Level
96' XLT
Im wondering if i could turbocharge the 4.0 this would be cheaper then turboing a v8 because it wouldnt get as hot. Im wondering if this is possible and what all would i need somebody told me that it was 900 for each so a twin turbo system would be around $1800 is that correct? I was gonna do the supercharger v-8 combo but I decided not to do it 1. because thats 6000 wortth of work and part and superchargers dont matain there rated horsepower at higer speeds
 



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Not sure where you got the costing for the tubro system. There is no system, on the market for a trubo explorer and I would highly recommend against it. The only turbo explorer i know / knew of, burned to the ground due to an engine fire on its maden voyage. The engine bay is just too tight for the kind of heat turbos radiate.

As for the S/C not maintaining the rate HP at higher speeds, where did you hear that? Not true.
 






yeh it is i got that from car and driver magazine's thats why race cars like nascar dont use superchargers... thx for the infor on the turbo
 






if your engine doesn't burn your trans will melt!! ha ha
 






hey that what i was gonna ask if i get a racing transmission would it work?
 






If your going to get all this crap, drop the dang v8 in it will be cheaper, 4R70W's and 302's were widely produced more than the explorer 4.0 stuff. Why Not just get this and put this into your truck?
 






this is why the swap is gonna at least cost me 2000 and im not a mechanic the accual engine swap is easy the hard part would be putting in the transfer case and the trans and finding out all the other little parts and sensors. so thats 2000 pluse i wont get good gas milage not to mention the other mods and exhaust i caculated it out i would end up with around 330-350 hp thats nothing for the cost i can name all the cars that would kill me

superchared s10 blazers
superchrger or just good modded 5.7 jeep grand cherokee larado's
any engine swaped import
lancers........ cobras (even the 1980's ones)
modded f150's
doge rams
modded doge durango's
modded desil surbabans
f-350's
any turbo eclipse
typhoon regular blazers
swaped explorer sports

and the list goes on thats 6000+ dollars that i can save for the 2005 svt cobra and snatch on everyone. So i figure i can moid the v-6 and at least have ther same speed as a v-8 for half the cost no to metion that but ill hget a lot better gas milage
not to mention that i would have to replace the axels and stuff because they cant handel all that power..
I figure over 200 hp with the v6 1000 dollars it cost me 5000 that's 6000 Seciond skin is 70 dollars for 50sqft so lest say 200sq feet of that. Good shocks 600 thats 6950
lets say 1000 for shaving and new paint and 300-400 dollars for eddie bower seets. all together around 8500 for a suv that handels almost as good and has less road noise then a lexus rsx300 thats more then 1/3 the cost
 






damn, your a freakin' genius.
 






well i can remember 1 explroer on here but dont remember wwhat motor he had. i think his name on here was " Klowns " he was also lifted

PEACE
 






You're for sure not gonna save any money by going with a turbo, so your wishful thinking ends there.
 






Man, you might want to do a little more research. Hell, you might even want to look into trading or selling your X and getting a 5.0 X. You could get a EE or other s/c'er and be good to go and fast.
 






Dude your not a mechanic. Nor am I, but due to your questions and responses it sounds like you are biting off a little more than you can chew. Your priorities seem to be a little messed up. Do some simple mods to your X to make it fun to drive ( stated in your other post). Save for your cobra. It's pretty simple really. What we are all trying to tell you is, your X isn't a race car never will be. Now that doesn't mean that you can't do a few things to make it more fun to drive. Twin turbos, 300rwhp from a NA 4.0 is Hogwash. I don't mean to be so blunt but, we have all answered these types of posts before. Hang around for a while and get a feel for what we do. There isn't a better board for Xplorers around anywhere. Try our search function 99.9% of your questions have already been answered. If not they will give you a place to start.
 






lol swapped explorer sports...man theres not many of those running around these days...hee hee, maybe 4-7 of em max, so you wont be finding those on the streets all the time :)
 






Not sure how a highly modified 4.0L would get "a lot better gas mileage" than a 302. Hell, not even a little better.

I used to get 16.5 - 17.0 MPG with my 4.0L 5-speed Auto Ranger. When I swapped in the slightly modified 302 4-speed Auto engine, the mileage dropped to an astounding 16.5 MPG. (My truck weight 4500lbs even)What was better, is that was always the MPG, highway, city, etc.. Towing mileage is much better with the V8 than the V6 as well. Now, with the Kenne Bell, I am getting 15.0MPG, but that is due to my accel pedal being stuck to the floor all the time! Good MPG does not always come with the smaller engine. Heck, the 5.4L V8 Expedition nearly always out runs a 4.6L V8.

As was said above, you are biting off more than you can chew. Any serious mod or engine swap should be left to those mechanically inclined. You are asking for alot of trouble if you dive in for any of the above without the knowledge of how things work and how you can improvise. This is especially true for a turbo system. You don't just get a mustang kit and slap it onto an explorer. You are looking at many long nights of trial and error fitting of tubes, sizing turbos and exhaust piping, then the inlet plumbing, not to mention the myriad of supplemental modifications.

Buy a sports car or get a V8 explorer, do aftermarket exhaust and be done with it.

Just my option...
 






Just another tidbit:

I averaged about 13 mpg with my s/c 4.0 OHV sport.
 






Here's my input regarding turbo charging.

You will spend a lot more on the turbo than a Supercharger. My background is a 94 Rx-7 which is twin sequential stock which I changed to a single T04S. I also owned a 91 240sx which I put a motor brought in from Japan which has a T25 turbo stock.

On a V8 you're going to have to run a twin parallel setup which is expensive since that is two turbos. Not to mention alot of piping, an intercooler, wastegates if they are not internal and a lot of time tuning it.

You will also need electronics to control boost, watch boost, watch egt, watch temps etc.

Supercharging may not be as efficient as turbocharging but its a lot less headaches. You pretty much just slap a supercharger on and you can go.

There are so many things that can, not will, go wrong with turbo charging your car. Not only that you have to make sure that you size your turbos correctly so that you don't get too much lag or top out to quickly.

Not to mention you will have to make custom exhaust manifolds.

Now i'm not too sure on how it would work on an explorer. This is my first SUV and first american car but all in all a car is a car and just warning you turbos are a pain in the ass as much as they are fun.
 






See, here's the deal. Turbo = too hot for the little 4.0 that was not designed for that sort of presure or heat. I drove a Cayanne turbo today. It could take it. Our X's cannot.

I looked at msn autos and compared the reported milages of X's across time. My 92 4.0 5 speed gets 1mpg more than a 302 from half a decade or so later...but it has twice the HP.

Supercharger would be the way to go, but for 2000 and a huge headache of mouting and whatnot, why not just get a car that goes as fast as you want it to? Want an SUV that is also fast? You have 2 options. The bloody expensive porsche i just drove (95k makes you go really quick), or build a bronco/explorer with as big a V8 in it as you can fit, an exhaust system and "be done with it." Good horsepower and low budget are not ever in the same equation, but for the mess you would make with turbos and whatnot, might as well just get a naturally aspirated 5.0 off ebay for $100, warm it over (maybe stroke it up), get a t5 to stick behind it (also from ebay) and figure out how to wedge it all in there. Yes, thats the pain, but therein also lies the cost cutting.

There is no cheap solution, only a smart one.
 






road noise? thats easy dynamat the door skins and tailgate, that will reduce alot of the road noise, i hear dynamat now has a spray on version too..
as for superchargers:
i have a buddy, we built a 95 Z28 camaro...Je forged pistons, titanium head bolts, chro molly push rods. 1.6 roller rockers...the list is a mile long...today even longer. heres a pic of what a blower (9lb ati procharger) did to his pistons...so dropping a blower on to a stock engine is nice, but it wont last, as you can see the holes in his aftermarket pistons..
http://www.abrinoperformanceengineering.com/images/THUMBNAILS/hole thumnail.jpg thats the pic link just cut and paste into browser...heres his website all about his car. http://www.abrinoperformanceengineering.com/images/FRAMES.html

his car was pretty much built for the blower when we put it on...i would suggest caution on any blower project
thats just my 2c
 






sorry to go off topic but here is his mod list

MEDIUM QUASAR BLUE
1995 Z28, 6.3 ltr., 385 LT1, 6 Spd.
Currently: 550rwhp 650rwtq
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
IGNITION
MSD 6AL
MSD BLASTER COIL
MSD SUPER CONDUCTOR WIRES 8.5mm
MSD TWO STEP "LAUNCH CONTROL"
MSD 3-Stage Timing Retard Controller
MSD WINDOW SWITCH
NGK TR6
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DRIVETRAIN
STAR STAGE III CARBON CLUTCH
B&M RIPPER SHIFTER (BILLET)
SPOHN "NITROUS" DRIVESHAFT WITH 1350 YOKES
MOSER 12 BOLT Rearend: (33 SPLINE CHROMOLY AXLES, HD EATON POSI, TA COVER,
4 CHNL ABS, 1350 Billet YOKE, 1/2"X20X3" ARP WHEEL STUDS, 4:10 Richmond Gears)
SPOHN "RACE" TORQUE ARM: (SPHERICLE ROD ENDs / DESIGNED FOR LONGTUBE HEADERS)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

INDUCTION
HOLLEY 58MM TB
1LE AIR BELLOWS
K&N COLD AIR INDUCTION
CNC PORTED INTAKE MANIFOLD LT1
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
VALVETRAIN
COMP CAMS CAMSHAFT: 230° - 244° DUR. @ 0.050" / 0.540" - 0.576" LIFT (1.6 ROCKER) 112
COMP CAMS HARDENED CHROMOLY PUSHRODS
COMP CAMS "R" LIFTERS 875-16
ARP 7/16" ROCKER ARM STUDS
COMP CAMS PRO-MAGNUM ROCKERS 7/16" STUD
COMP CAMS 950-16 VALVE SPRINGS
COMP CAMS TITANIUM RETAINERS
COMP CAMS GUIDE PLATES
COMP CAMS SPRING SHIMS
COMP CAMS ID LOCATOR CUPS
COMP CAMS HARDENED 10° LOCKS
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ENGINE
MR GASKET ALLEN HEAD "CHROME" INTAKE BOLTS
GM 1LE AC DELETE PULLEY
CSI ELECTRIC WATERPUMP
ARP FLYWHEEL BOLTS (12pt)
ARP CAMSHAFT BOLTS (12pt)
ARP MAIN CAP STUD KIT
ARP OIL PUMP STUD KIT
ARP OIL PAN BOLTS (12pt)
ARP HEAD STUD KIT (12pt)
FLUIDAMPR HARMONIC BALANCER
COMP CAMS DOUBLE ROLLER TIMING CHAIN
SRP FORGED PISTONS 4.040" -16cc INVERTED DOME
HASTINGS DOUBLE PLASMA MOLY PISTON RINGS 4.040"
EAGLE 4340 H-BEAM RODS 5.7"
EAGLE 4340 FORGED CRANKSHAFT 3.75" STROKE
INTERNALLY BALANCED ROTATING ASSEMBLY
LUNATI FORGED / SPLAYED 4 BOLT MAIN CAPS
0.005" DECK HEIGHT
CLEVITE 77 RACE V BEARINGS
MELLING OIL PUMP/ HIGH VOLUME - HIGH PRESSURE
CANTON HARDENED STEEL OIL PUMP DRIVE SHAFT
CANTON BOLT ON OIL PUMP PICKUP
CANTON 93-97 DEEP SUMP OIL PAN (WINDAGE TRAY, TRAP DOORS, CRANK SCRAPER)
FORGED MAIN CAP GIRDLES FRONT / REAR
DRILLED AND TAPPED OIL GALLEY PLUG PORTS
FELPRO RACE GASKETS
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CYLINDER HEADS
CNC FULLY PORTED LT1 CASTINGS
2.00" / 1.56" STAINLESS STEEL FEREA VALVES
GASKET MATCHED
3 ANGLE VALVE JOB
CNC CYLINDER HEADS
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EXHAUST
HOOKER LONGTUBE HEADERS 1 3/4" AIRBORNE COATED
CUSTOM DUAL EXHAUST: TWIN 3" DYNOMAX RACE BULLETS WITH H PIPE TOO DUMPS
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SUSPENSION / CHASSIS
JEGS 6PT ROLL CAGE
T-BYRNE MOTORSPORTS LIGHTWEIGHT TUBUALR K-MEMBER
BMR TUBULAR UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS
BMR STRUT TWR BRACE
KYB AGX 8 WAY GAS ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS
SLP SPRINGS (camaro ss) FRNT
CAMARO V6 SPRINGS REAR
1LE SWAYBARS (32mm FRONT) Street Only
ENERGY SUSP. EURETHANE MOTOR MOUNT BUSHINGS
ENERGY SUSP. EURETHANE SWAYBAR BUSHINGS
SPOHN CHROMOLY PANHARD BAR WITH DUAL SPHERICLE ROD ENDS
SPOHN LOWER CONTROL ARMS
SPOHN LOWER CONTROL ARM RELOCATION BRACKETS
SPOHN "RACE" SWAY BAR
BMR HARDTOP BOXED SUBFRAME'S
ROH SNYPER 17" X 9"
YOKAHOMA A-520 275/40 ZR-17 Front
Nitto Drag Radials 275/40-17 Rear
CENTERLINE TELSTAR SKINNIES AND FATTIES
BFG 275-60-15 DRAG RADIALS / MICKEY THOMPSON SPORTSMANS UP FRONT
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FUEL SYSTEM
HOLLEY 255 LPH IN TANK FUEL PUMP
HYPERTECH FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
30LB/HR INJECTORS(SVO)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MISC.
AUTOMETER FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE
AUTOMETER EXHAUST GAS TEMP. GUAGE
AUTOMETER OIL TEMP GAUGE
AUTOMETER NITROUS PRESS. GAUGE
TCI LINE LOCK
MSD SHIFT LIGHT
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

POWER ADDER
NITROUS EXPRESS "SHARK" WET FOGGER NOZZLE 200HP
NITROUS EXPRESS STAGE V RACE SOLENOID (FUEL/N2O)
NOS HIGH FLOW NITROUS FILTER
NOS BOTTLE HEATER
NOS SUPER HIGH FLOW BOTTLE WITH 1/2" DIP TUBE AND BLOW DOWN



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ENGINE MANAGEMENT
LT1 ECM
TUNER CATS 2.0
LETHAL EFI CUSTOM TUNING "JOE OVERTON"
LT4 KNOCK MODULE
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BEST ¼ MILE TIME:
11.41@125mph
THIS RUN WAS IN STREET TRIM:
17's with Nitto's
1.9 60'
SHIFTING INTO 5th GEAR, (4:10's)
OLD NITROUS SOLENOIDS (Nitrous Works)

STOCK STYLE REAR SWAYBAR
 



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Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
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if he burned that motor up with 9psi it was only because of 2 things-

1- a defective part

2- a bad tune
 






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