Turn Key = Click. Now What?

[TM21fourT3]

So a few weeks ago I replaced my starter solenoid due to starting issues with this exact part :

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-Solenoid-BWD_5972833-P_587_R|GRPRELAAMS_____

Worked perfectly fine for the last few weeks....Now I'm back to having issues....

When I turn the key I hear the normal noise of the fuel pump (I think that's what it is)...then one solid click. I had another person check where the clicking was coming from, he said the starter solenoid (the newest part on the car). I then did the screwdriver trick to bypass it, still no start. But when the correct spots are hit with the screwdriver, I hear the actual starter clicking, the one under the car.

So what do I do now?

New Starter Solenoid?
New Starter?

This part - ?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...Solenoid-BWD_5972833-P_587_R|GRPRELAAMS_____#

Or this part - ?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-Solenoid-BWD_3993930-P_575_R|GRPSTRTAMS_____

Of this expensive one - ?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...er-Driveworks_5220003-P_123_R|GRPSTRTAMS_____

Or is there yet another option?....thank you guys.

 

[rickybobby]

1st check the battery voltage, then test the starter cable, then take the starter off and have it bench tested

 

[arco777]

Usually those are symptoms of bad connections; check your battery connections, and check your cables (they can corrode internally).

 

[TM21fourT3]

Just did some google'ing....is there a real way to check the cables themselves? - can't find any real answers. The battery is definetly good, crazy sparks with the cables, and it even shorted out my voltage checker.

But what is the real way to check the cables?

 

[TM21fourT3]

To further update this......

I pulled some codes for my Explorer and all I get is "111"....."111". Every time. I'm told this means everything's "OK".

Does this provide any hints to my issue?

 

[JDraper]

Bets on the positive battery cable having internal corrosion. Common issue in the Gen 1 explorers. Both of the Gen 1's I owned had that issue. If you have a multimeter you can test the cable for resistance. If it's more than a couple of ohms, it's probably bad.

Symptoms are every thing works, but the vehicle won't start. Acts a lot like a bad starter or solenoid.

 

[jd4242]

check the engine ground.its on the passenger side under the manifold.pull it off clean it real good and put it back on

 

[TM21fourT3]

Can't find the engine ground....could it really be that simple?

 

[jd4242]

Can't find the engine ground....could it really be that simple?

It put my truck down for two weeks.replaced EVERYTHING and it still wouldnt start.its on the passenger side under the exhaust manifold.pull it off and clean it real good.worth a shot for sure,free

 

[TM21fourT3]

It put my truck down for two weeks.replaced EVERYTHING and it still wouldnt start.its on the passenger side under the exhaust manifold.pull it off and clean it real good.worth a shot for sure,free

Alright....I know I'm starting to sound like an idiot, but whatever.

Is the ground the gold looking cylinder that is bolted down what has 4 or 5 small wires going to the top of it? I followed your instructions I found in a different post about passenger side, in front of oil filter, under manifold, that that's what I see.

So take off that cylinder thing and clean it?

 

[jd4242]

Just follow the ground wire from the battery, goes to the frame then to the motor.should be one bolt

 

[Tango51]

I agree with arco777 and JDraper. My '94 did the same thing. Original OEM cable. I replaced both positive and negative cables with new ones from RockAuto and I was good to go.
I also had the same problem with the ground wire. I ended up removing the front wheel and inside fender well on the passenger side to get to it. Good luck...

 

[Tango51]

Here's a quick pic of the other end of your negative battery cable. Passenger side, just below the exhaust manifold. Hope this helps...

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/johnhpanowich/7308548118/

 

[Bruces expo]

I Bet Money its The First Main 40 Or 60 Amp Fuse For Main Power , Check All Your main fuses Under The Hood , I Had A fuse Going bad on me and it totally shut down my truck while i was driving at 1am in the snow in Chicago , I pulled over popped the hood and smacked the fuse box and I then got Power , When I could find the next exit I checked my first Main Fuse And it Was starting to not Have A Connection at all , There's My Horror story about a Fuse haha , But I can almost bet its either That fuse or Another !

 

[rickybobby]

I verified my failed ground cable with a set of jumper cables, one end on the negative battery terminal and the other on an alternator bolt (easiest access to a known good grounding point on my 1st gen)

 

[rickybobby]

Alright....I know I'm starting to sound like an idiot, but whatever.

Is the ground the gold looking cylinder that is bolted down what has 4 or 5 small wires going to the top of it? I followed your instructions I found in a different post about passenger side, in front of oil filter, under manifold, that that's what I see.

So take off that cylinder thing and clean it?

what you are describing sounds more like the positive cable connection at the starter

 

[Corik]

The easiest test by far is to test the voltage of the battery while cranking the engine. If the voltage while cranking is less than 9.6Volts then either the battery is weak/dead or the connections are bad. ie. corroded, loose, or just dirty.

if you really want to check to see if your battery cables are bad do a simple voltage drop test.
You will need at least two long alligator clip wires and a multimeter/volt meter.

First, Make sure the X wont start, you can disconnect the coil easily enough.

Second, connect the first alligator clip to the positive connection at the starter. If you aren't sure, just follow the positive battery cable. I was able to hang the wire down from on top of the engine from the driver side.

Connect that wire to the volt meter positive.

Next connect the other wire from the positive terminal of the battery, to the voltmeter ground wire.

If the wires are long enough you should be able to move the voltmeter so you can see it while cranking over the engine from inside, or just have a friend watch while you crank the engine.

Good cables will have less than 0.2V drop; more than that indicates excessive resistance, loose or dirty connections. Make sure all connections are bright, shiny, clean, and tight You can do this same thing for the ground side of the starter and battery.

I could post some pictures tomorrow if wanted

Edit: I feel stupid...it doesnt crank lol

 

[KooK]

Do me a favor...

Grab Broom stick
Wack starter a few times
Start Explorer

WHEN THAT WORKS

Replace starter because starter is bad.

 

[iteotwawki]

I'm having almost the same issue.

92 Explorer. New batter in April. New alternator a month ago. Tonight when I jumped in the truck, I turned the key and got... click, click. I noted that the sound was coming from the solenoid on the fender well. I grabbed a screwdriver, turned the key on and touched the screwdriver to the Solenoid and it started.

I shut it off, tried to start it with the key and again...click, click, from the solenoid on the fender well. Turned the key on and tried the screwdriver trick again and this time, nothing. I noted that when I touched the screwdriver to the solenoid it seemed that I didn't see the same amount of sparks as the first time I did it. Low battery? Poor connection? EMP? All of the above. I'm going to dive into this tomorrow (yes on the 4th of July) as I have to have wheels.

Keep a sharp eye out for pathetic questions tomorrow.

 

[rickybobby]

92 Explorer. New batter in April. New alternator a month ago. Tonight when I jumped in the truck, I turned the key and got... click, click. I noted that the sound was coming from the solenoid on the fender well. I grabbed a screwdriver, turned the key on and touched the screwdriver to the Solenoid and it started.

I shut it off, tried to start it with the key and again...click, click, from the solenoid on the fender well. Turned the key on and tried the screwdriver trick again and this time, nothing. I noted that when I touched the screwdriver to the solenoid it seemed that I didn't see the same amount of sparks as the first time I did it. Low battery? Poor connection? EMP? All of the above. I'm going to dive into this tomorrow (yes on the 4th of July) as I have to have wheels.

Keep a sharp eye out for pathetic questions tomorrow.

My guess is that the signal wire from the solenoid is bad, when mine went the first few times it would start with the screwdriver on the solenoid. after that i had to crawl on top of the engine and reach down to the starter with the screwdriver (the plastic cap over the terminals was missing when i bought it)