Type of fuel injectors

[Fordsgalore4]

My explorer has been using lots of gas and running rich so I was going to replace the FPR and replace the intake gaskets and injector o rings when I looked down the injectors are a Red body type 2s and from what I remember those are 30lbs mustang ones and I thought 4.0s used orange 19lbs ones im I wrong and leave the red or should I change it back to the orange ones

 

[arco777]

The red injectors you have are correct. On the Explorer they are 19lb models.

When I rebuilt my injectors a month or so ago the best deal I found on a rebuild kit was from RJM Injection Tech. Cost me $32 shipped for 8 sets of new O-rings with new filters and pintle caps.

 

[Fordsgalore4]

The red injectors you have are correct. On the Explorer they are 19lb models.

When I rebuilt my injectors a month or so ago the best deal I found on a rebuild kit was from RJM Injection Tech. Cost me $32 shipped for 8 sets of new O-rings with new filters and pintle caps.

Why is it when I look for replaces meant ones I always come up with orange body ones does it make a difference heres a link I found


http://extremeautoinjectors.hostedb...4-Hole-Injector-Matched-Upgrade/dp/B00C0XJ8H6

 

[arco777]

I wouldn't bother replacing the injectors, it didn't solve my problem (turned out to be a cracked spark plug). Typically injectors are good for the life of the vehicle. I pulled injectors from a junkyard 140k mile 4.0 and rebuilt them along with my stock 180k injectors. Higher mileage units resistance tested the exact same and performed the exact same.

If you are set on messing with injectors, I would suggest rebuilding them yourself. I soaked mine for three days in B-12 fuel injector cleaner and it got a lot of gunk out. The rebuilding itself was really easy.

I don't see how anyone could honestly sell a full set of "reconditioned" injectors for $60. The cheapest legit site I've seen was asking around $30 each. The one you linked to comes off as a scam to me. They're not even the proper EV1 injectors, those are EV6 style. Also that site suggests that the 4-hole design is improved over earlier style; the stock EV1s that come on the 1994 Explorer are already a 4-hole design (holding one in my hand now) and there are no gains to be had by switching to an EV6.

If you don't believe that the stock red injectors are 19lb, check the part number. I've already been there, been skeptical, and it was proven through part numbers that the stock red Explorer injector is a 19lb.

 

[Fordsgalore4]

I wouldn't bother replacing the injectors, it didn't solve my problem (turned out to be a cracked spark plug). Typically injectors are good for the life of the vehicle. I pulled injectors from a junkyard 140k mile 4.0 and rebuilt them along with my stock 180k injectors. Higher mileage units resistance tested the exact same and performed the exact same.

If you are set on messing with injectors, I would suggest rebuilding them yourself. I soaked mine for three days in B-12 fuel injector cleaner and it got a lot of gunk out. The rebuilding itself was really easy.

I don't see how anyone could honestly sell a full set of "reconditioned" injectors for $60. The cheapest legit site I've seen was asking around $30 each. The one you linked to comes off as a scam to me. They're not even the proper EV1 injectors, those are EV6 style. Also that site suggests that the 4-hole design is improved over earlier style; the stock EV1s that come on the 1994 Explorer are already a 4-hole design (holding one in my hand now) and there are no gains to be had by switching to an EV6.

If you don't believe that the stock red injectors are 19lb, check the part number. I've already been there, been skeptical, and it was proven through part numbers that the stock red Explorer injector is a 19lb.

Ok thank you I really don't want to change them at all and was making sure there the right ones and I was wounding way they were so cheap, so I just soak the fully submerge in B12 fuel and were do you get and is there a part number for the rebuild kit for the injectors. When I pull the intake off ill check the part number to make sure

 

[arco777]

The B-12 fuel injector cleaner is sold at most auto parts store with the other fuel system cleaners. I attached a picture.

For the rebuild kit, I haven't had much luck finding rebuild kits with the filters anywhere except RJM Injection Tech http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/.

Here's the link to the specific rebuild kit: http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/products/inj-kit
Select the EV1 style injectors if you're rebuilding your stock ones. You'll get 8 full sets of upper and lower O-rings, 8 pintle caps, and 8 injector filters.

To remove the filters, I clamped a self tapping screw into a vice grips, threaded it into the soft brass ring of the old filter, and yanked them out of the injectors. The new filters press into place.

Don't forget you will need replacement intake manifold and fuel rail gaskets. I used the FEL-PRO MS94683 set, available for $6.74 on RockAuto.

 

[Fordsgalore4]

The B-12 fuel injector cleaner is sold at most auto parts store with the other fuel system cleaners. I attached a picture.

For the rebuild kit, I haven't had much luck finding rebuild kits with the filters anywhere except RJM Injection Tech http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/.

Here's the link to the specific rebuild kit: http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/products/inj-kit
Select the EV1 style injectors if you're rebuilding your stock ones. You'll get 8 full sets of upper and lower O-rings, 8 pintle caps, and 8 injector filters.

To remove the filters, I clamped a self tapping screw into a vice grips, threaded it into the soft brass ring of the old filter, and yanked them out of the injectors. The new filters press into place.

Don't forget you will need replacement intake manifold and fuel rail gaskets. I used the FEL-PRO MS94683 set, available for $6.74 on RockAuto.

Ok thank you I order the gaskets and o ring kit and FPR a few days a go but the o rings are not needed any more I see

 

[Fordsgalore4]

I wouldn't bother replacing the injectors, it didn't solve my problem (turned out to be a cracked spark plug). Typically injectors are good for the life of the vehicle. I pulled injectors from a junkyard 140k mile 4.0 and rebuilt them along with my stock 180k injectors. Higher mileage units resistance tested the exact same and performed the exact same.

If you are set on messing with injectors, I would suggest rebuilding them yourself. I soaked mine for three days in B-12 fuel injector cleaner and it got a lot of gunk out. The rebuilding itself was really easy.

I don't see how anyone could honestly sell a full set of "reconditioned" injectors for $60. The cheapest legit site I've seen was asking around $30 each. The one you linked to comes off as a scam to me. They're not even the proper EV1 injectors, those are EV6 style. Also that site suggests that the 4-hole design is improved over earlier style; the stock EV1s that come on the 1994 Explorer are already a 4-hole design (holding one in my hand now) and there are no gains to be had by switching to an EV6.

If you don't believe that the stock red injectors are 19lb, check the part number. I've already been there, been skeptical, and it was proven through part numbers that the stock red Explorer injector is a 19lb.

got the injectors out and the part number is 21TF-AA and who do I remove the injector screen how far do I go down with the screw

 

[arco777]

Reference the new injector filters to estimate the safe screw depth. Just a couple threads in should be enough if the screw gets a solid bite into the brass.

 

[Fordsgalore4]

Reference the new injector filters to estimate the safe screw depth. Just a couple threads in should be enough if the screw gets a solid bite into the brass.

I got all the injectors all apart and im about to start soaking them in B-12 and I ordered the rebuild kit from that site thank you

 

[smegun]

anyone have a blow up of the injectors didnt know you could break these down ebay shows a set of bosch for roughly 125 i tried all kinds of stuff down the pipe nothing worked sea foam b-12 various injector additives the only thing that has helped alot is chevron techron fuel sytem flush the techron product is great there is a 20 percent increase in kick off the line truck still suffers from passing speed though on the freeway idles great and runs great at low speed misses a 4 barrel though

dont use berrymans its a fairly good product but it will coat your plugs with a kind of white crusty crap like calcite use it to cant imagine what it will do for the seats the berrymans chem dip has been around for ages works great to clean parts but will move rubber parts out of spec lost a set of injectors once ... he ha

looking for injector replacement tutorial and schematic of injectors that is the parts blow up for the ford /// my feeling is the return mechanism is tired on one or more of my cylinders
but there is evidence that gunk and proper dispersal of gas spray is a culprit the techron product works great 6.50 treats up to 18 gals i ran it on top of 8

 

[natenkiki2004]

There's not much to taking the injectors apart. You can only really take off the o-rings, pintle cap and basket/filter. The o-rings should be easy to figure out. I used a pair of pliers for the pintle cap, totally destroyed them but they were brittle anyway. For the basket, running a screw in is a good way, just be careful.

I would honestly suggest getting the rebuilt kit on eBay for $125 from Motor Man. They rebuild them right when you order and go through every possible testing including flow matching which is really important on our batch-fire injector system on the early Explorers.

 

[smegun]

proper play doctor

want to know the best way to get the injectors out looks like there mounted in a propriatary fuel rail oval assembly instead of a rail i guess i got to take off the phlenum or can this be done via a hernia

 

[natenkiki2004]

The upper intake comes off via 6 nuts then once that's off, you get the fuel rail off by removing the 6 studs that the 6 nuts screwed into. Have some rags handy, you WILL dump fuel everywhere. Helps to relieve pressure at the schrader valve (passenger side of the fuel rail) and to remove the fuel lines and put a rag on the end of them. There won't be gallons and gallons but enough to make you want to let the engine sit and have it all dry out before re-assembling.


Check this out:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/40LIntakeGasketReplacement.pdf

Pages 2, 7 and 10 give you an idea of what needs to be done. It also has torque specs which seem accurate.

In my experiences, a basic set of metric sockets, an 8" extension (or multiple smaller ones), a good ratchet and flathead screwdriver take care of most everything. The one "specialty" tool you will need will be an E7 torx socket. They're not that hard nor expensive to find though.

A suggestion of mine would be to double-check/tighten the lower intake bolts. A couple of mine weren't quite tight and it's quick, easy and free to check those bolts out with the upper intake removed.


*EDIT*
On a side note, I used ATF on my injector o-rings. I figure that there's a fair amount of rubber & plastic in transmissions and that it shouldn't hurt the o-rings. It's also a light lubricant that can get washed away easily. With a nice coating courtesy of a q-tip, they popped in nicely.

 

[smegun]

The upper intake comes off via 6 nuts then once that's off, you get the fuel rail off by removing the 6 studs that the 6 nuts screwed into. Have some rags handy, you WILL dump fuel everywhere. Helps to relieve pressure at the schrader valve (passenger side of the fuel rail) and to remove the fuel lines and put a rag on the end of them. There won't be gallons and gallons but enough to make you want to let the engine sit and have it all dry out before re-assembling.


Check this out:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/40LIntakeGasketReplacement.pdf

Pages 2, 7 and 10 give you an idea of what needs to be done. It also has torque specs which seem accurate.

In my experiences, a basic set of metric sockets, an 8" extension (or multiple smaller ones), a good ratchet and flathead screwdriver take care of most everything. The one "specialty" tool you will need will be an E7 torx socket. They're not that hard nor expensive to find though.

A suggestion of mine would be to double-check/tighten the lower intake bolts. A couple of mine weren't quite tight and it's quick, easy and free to check those bolts out with the upper intake removed.


*EDIT*
On a side note, I used ATF on my injector o-rings. I figure that there's a fair amount of rubber & plastic in transmissions and that it shouldn't hurt the o-rings. It's also a light lubricant that can get washed away easily. With a nice coating courtesy of a q-tip, they popped in nicely.

thanks i was looking for a step through this is perfect the pdf
gets me all the way down to the lower intake step by step and my wallet
im going to look for a set of ford gaskets and some baushce injectors

 

[natenkiki2004]

Not a problem For injectors, I would seriously consider these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300499569879?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

 

[Fordsgalore4]

Just a update since RJM is no longer around i found another company that sell the kits Mr Injector Parts

 

[shamal]

Thanks natenkiki for the link, I am about to tear down a top, got a small water leak at the corner intake, might as well change them while I'm in there. I bought a new set of rockers from Tacoma Cam too.
I noticed Fordsgalore did not post a link or info about the new company he found ??

 

[Fordsgalore4]

OH my bad here is the link new injectors and the kits to rebuild your old ones rebuild is supper easy and saves a ton of money as long as the injector test good

 

[natenkiki2004]

Fordsgalore4, you're not very good at posting links

Slapping a new kit on an injector is nice but it's far from rebuilding. Unless you have the proper machinery to test flow pattern, flow rate, check for leaks and load, you're wasting your time. Plus, you should reverse flow them to clean them. It's best to leave that to the professionals unless you really know what you're doing and have the tools to do it.

Having a matching set of injectors with proven flow rates means a lot in these batch fire systems. All the injectors on 1 bank fire at the same time. If the computer decides it needs more fuel, all 3 cylinders receive the same amount of additional fuel. If you have a leaky or stuck injector, 2 other cylinders (maybe more as we only have downstream O2 sensors) suffer as the computer tries to compensate.