Under dash fuse box question

[locomarine]

I recently installed a dash cam hardwired to the fuse box (under dash) in my 2016 Explorer Sport using a fuse tap that came with the hardwire kit. The kit has a voltage cut-off box which is set for 11.6v. I have it tapped to an always hot fuse so the camera will work when the car is off. Works as designed as the camera stays on when the car is off. The issue I'm having is whenever I start the car, the camera power cycles off. I'm guessing when the car is started, power is ever so briefly cut from the fuse panel causing the hardwire controller to shut down?

Does anyone know if the power is ever so briefly interrupted upon ignition? I haven't had a chance to test with a multimeter and have someone else start the car since I won't be able to reach up and start myself, but this will bug me all day so thought I would post.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum.
I don't know for sure but I doubt that starting the vehicle would cut power to the fuse box. There are several circuits/programs that require constant power, albeit very low current. Which fuse did you tap into?
Have you seen this one? Thinkware F750 front & rear dashcam hardwire install (Ford Explorer 2011-2017)
Some have also tapped into the rearview mirror to power dashcams, radar detectors.

Peter

 

[Steve18Sport]

I did the same with a fuse tap for a Blackvue camera and Power Magic Pro, which I think is set up for 12.0 V cutoff. No issues for me on startup. If the battery runs down due to the camera being on, it will often cut off when I open the driver door and lighting loads come on, but before starting. Maybe check your connections that everything is solid and good enough contact. If your power supply is remotely located from the fuse box consider whether your wire gauge is sufficient.

 

[locomarine]

Welcome to the Forum.
I don't know for sure but I doubt that starting the vehicle would cut power to the fuse box. There are several circuits/programs that require constant power, albeit very low current. Which fuse did you tap into?
Have you seen this one? Thinkware F750 front & rear dashcam hardwire install (Ford Explorer 2011-2017)
Some have also tapped into the rearview mirror to power dashcams, radar detectors.

Peter

Thanks for the welcome and getting back Peter. I have seen that post, but I don't want to mess with the wires in the pillar. My luck i'll trigger the airbags lol. I've tried a few of the unused fuse spots and moonroof spot since I don't have a moon roof just to see what happens. Same result each time. I contacted the vender of the hardwire kit and they are going to send another one as maybe there is a problem with the low voltage cutoff box. For giggles I ordered another one from a different company to see if I have the same results. After i'm done testing I'll write up a little something for others in the future. I tried Google before hand but there wasn't much info other than the link you previously mentioned.

I'm thinking the voltage cutoff box on the kit is causing the problem as I have my Ham radio being powered from slot #16 via fuse with wire soldered to the fuse and that works perfectly.

Maybe you can answer another question for me...Fuse #1 is for the battery saver on the Explorer. Does it have it's own low voltage cutoff programmed in? If so, any idea what the low point setting is? I'm thinking maybe Ill wire the camera up not using there voltage regulator cutoff box and relying on the explorer's own low voltage cutoff if this is the case?

Steve

 

[Rainlord]

I wouldn't worry about the airbag cable, that one is not in the pillar

In any case. Any 12V switched that you find will work as a cutoff as - if the battery is low (< 12V) - all the 12V sources throughout the car will have the same voltage. To be honest, the pillar ones are so much easier to reach than the fusebox ones, so I would still recommend you go that route even if you don't want to go there.

In any case, I would wait for another hardwire kit and see if that works better, rather than tap the low voltage fuse.

 

[peterk9]

Hi Steve. I believe the Battery Saver Program is governed by a 10 minute timer for most powered systems. See what results the new kit produces.
Here is another thread that might be of general interest. Any 2011+ ham radio guys??
I've given up trying to install my radios. These newer vehicles have less and less space in them and none of mine have a detachable head unit.
Good luck. 73

Peter

 

[locomarine]

Hi Steve. I believe the Battery Saver Program is governed by a 10 minute timer for most powered systems. See what results the new kit produces.
Here is another thread that might be of general interest. Any 2011+ ham radio guys??
I've given up trying to install my radios. These newer vehicles have less and less space in them and none of mine have a detachable head unit.
Good luck. 73

Peter

Alright, so an update on this issue. It has been resolved.Thanks for all of the responses from everyone. Bought a different hardwire kit from another company. The replacement from the original company would have taken too long to get here. I went with the https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072J3L2JN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works perfect. The issue has gone away.

Additionally Peter, the first kit was causing horrible interference on 146.52 of all frequencies. The new kit has resolved that issue also. I have it tapped into fuse #31 which is an unused spot. Hopefully this will help someone out who does a google search.

Peter thanks to the referral on the ham section here. More hours of late night reading when I should be sleeping lol. I ended up buying a detachable head radio so I could install it in the explorer. I'll post something in the radio section if you want to take a peak on how I did it.

73

 

[Ironworker40]

Nice kit from Amazon but why on earth would they use a glass fuse? Im sure there not easy to find. A friend of mine needed the old german fuses for a VW and had to order them from Advanced Auto
Another option is to wire it direct to battery then you don't disturb oe fuses and don't have to deal with the location of the factory fuse box.
Just use an inline fire holder close to the battery.

 

[blwnsmoke]

Interesting, all my dash cams have the voltage built in for it to go to "sleep" when voltage hits a programmed level. I can adjust it myself right on the cam in 0.1v increments.

 

[locomarine]

Interesting, all my dash cams have the voltage built in for it to go to "sleep" when voltage hits a programmed level. I can adjust it myself right on the cam in 0.1v increments.

I bought a cheap one. Prob made in China. $89 got me 1080 front and rear with a sony sensor. Im thinking I should've not been cheap and bought a Blackvue. But el cheapo does what I need it to.

 

[MrPlat]

Blackvue depends on an external voltage cutoff box, as well. They sell a product with many of their cameras that they manufacture called a Power Magic Pro. It has adjustable cutoffs at 12.5v or 12v. I had my dad modify the box (electrical engineer) to have the cutoffs 12.7v and 12.2v. 12 is a bit too low for my taste, so the 12.2v is a nice compromise to always just running it on a timer.