Vauge questions that I have....

[Mr.Grumpy]

I am looking for a car to drive for eight months untill the lease on my truck is up, since I can't put any more miles on it. I could care less what kind of car it is as long as it lasts 8-10 months. Like all things in life, it's a delicate balancng act. If I buy a cheep car and have to put a bunch of money into it it will add up to be more than the overage charges for the miles, so I don't want to get caught in that trap. Now, to further muddy the waters, I would like to have, by the end of next summer, a vehicle to transport the wife and kids and dogs and "stuff" AND a vehicle to do some mild off-roading and make sure tht I can get to work NO MATTER WHAT (I have that kind of a job).

So I was trolling the local CL and found a '91 Mazda Navajo for under a grand asking. For that money, I don't expect it to be a jem and I don't expect it to serve as a family hauler but I was thinking that it might just get me through the next 3/4 year and then be a good truck to wheel with my buddy and getting me to work in snow emergancies. That would let me get a stylish, reliable, economical car next year.

I know very little about explorers and even less about old ones. AFAIK '91 was the first modle year. That alone warns me to stear clear. Other than that that is there any thing that I should be looking for when I check out this truck? Any one have any experiences or information on freaquently failing parts that would put the whole buget over 2 grand or so? How are these old Explorers for wheeling (I don't think that I'd wheel a new one...)? Are they easy to work on and find mods for?

I have been searching the web for hours and am going to start diggin in here right after I post this, but I wanted to just ask up front and see what you gys had to say. It's easy to find information o the internet. It's hard to find the right information though!

Thanks guys!

 

[IZwack]

Most would agree that the weakness in the first generation Explorers ('91-'94) were the automatic transmissions (model A4LD). I would test drive that Navajo for 30-45 minutes or so to let things warm up. Take it on the highway and through some stop and go (city) driving.

In addition, if you haven't already, search CraigsList.org for a vehicle in your budget. I have seen some first generation Explorers on CraigsList for about $650. And I'm sure there are other vehicles (other than the Explorer) that will fulfill your requirements and also fit your budget. The Blazer and the older Jeep SUVs (Cherokee, Wagoneers...) are a good example of such a vehicle.

 

[Mr.Grumpy]

Most would agree that the weakness in the first generation Explorers ('91-'94) were the automatic transmissions (model A4LD). I would test drive that Navajo for 30-45 minutes or so to let things warm up. Take it on the highway and through some stop and go (city) driving.

In addition, if you haven't already, search CraigsList.org for a vehicle in your budget. I have seen some first generation Explorers on CraigsList for about $650. And I'm sure there are other vehicles (other than the Explorer) that will fulfill your requirements and also fit your budget. The Blazer and the older Jeep SUVs (Cherokee, Wagoneers...) are a good example of such a vehicle.

Actually, that's exactly what I have ben doing! I am surprised at the number and veriety of reasonably OK cars that you can get for $1000 or so. Every thing from this Navajo to a IROC to a Land Rover DIscovery. No Jeeps though. Cherokees bottom out at about $1500 (for junk) and Wranglers don't get below $2500 (for more junk), at least not around here.

Thanks for the tip about the transmissions though. 30-40 minuits is a LONG test drive, but I'll ask the owner about it. WHat is wrong with them? Do the "just go" at a certain mileage or something?

Thanks

Ken

 

[dogfriend]

Thanks for the tip about the transmissions though. 30-40 minuits is a LONG test drive, but I'll ask the owner about it. WHat is wrong with them? Do the "just go" at a certain mileage or something?

Thanks

Ken

Not an expert on this, but two common failure modes are:

1. Losing OD with eventual broken bits ending up in the pan.

2. Blowing the front seal and losing most of the tranny fluid.

Lots more info in the Transmissions and Transfer Case Forum

There are a couple of good threads in the "Stickies" at the top of the forum.

 

[wharriso]

This is an interesting question. I unloaded my last SUV (Jeep Grand Cherokee) because it needed around $3000.00 worth of repairs. What if you wound up with my old car, or something as bad? You put the 3k into it along with the purchase price, bringing to total to 4K, plus the cost to insure the additional car.

How much will it cost you to just drive the leased car for 8 months?

 

[Mr.Grumpy]

This is an interesting question. I unloaded my last SUV (Jeep Grand Cherokee) because it needed around $3000.00 worth of repairs. What if you wound up with my old car, or something as bad? You put the 3k into it along with the purchase price, bringing to total to 4K, plus the cost to insure the additional car.

How much will it cost you to just drive the leased car for 8 months?

It will cost me about : WOW! a lot more than I thought! Figure 10000 miles a month (what I have been averaging even trying hard to keep the miles down) at 40¢ per mile for 5 of those 8 months: that's TWO GRAND + whatever else they charge me to turn it in! It's half of the $4k that you figured but at the end of your $4k I'd have a truck......

 

[dogfriend]

Leasing is a money suck unless you can write it off on your taxes. Bad idea for most people.

 

[wharriso]

It will cost me about : WOW! a lot more than I thought! Figure 10000 miles a month (what I have been averaging even trying hard to keep the miles down) at 40¢ per mile for 5 of those 8 months: that's TWO GRAND + whatever else they charge me to turn it in! It's half of the $4k that you figured but at the end of your $4k I'd have a truck......

Well, TWO GRAND is about $250 per month. The "+ whatever else they charge me to turn it in" is "sunk costs", you're gonna have to pay that regardless. So for around $4k, not $500.00 per month, but $4k up front, you get someone's klunker which may or may not be reliable and probably won't be worth what you pay into it.

Hey, just my opinion!

 

[1shot]

TRans probs..

A typical problem with the 4.0L V6/Auto combo in first gen explorers (91-94) is the seals go in the trans with high miles...this causes a slow engage into drive, and usually 1st and 3rd gears go out of them first. However, with good oil (read synth) and filter change you can squeeze a few extra thousand miles out of them.

BTW - this info came from my friend - who happens to own a trans shop and has done several trans for me in the past. Prob. 30 - 40 between my brother and me. He said he'll book me in for an open appointment, since my tranny has almost 400K on it.

 

[1shot]

an even BETTER way to determine...

An even better way to determine...what type of things to look out for in used car purchases is...

Go to a reasonably large brand specific wrecker/parts-recycler location and scope out the units they have for what is missing and speak with the counter people.

There are two ford specific dealers near me that deal exclusively in 90's Ford trucks n vans. I went out to their yards and you could see the exact same pieces missing from every 91-94 explorer.

These included (in order of most missing) out of a total of about 40 explorers in the 2 yards...:

- Fan speed control knobs. 0 available
- Radios 4 available
- Trannies 2 available
- Heater cores 0 available
- Transfer Cases 2 available
- Front Axle/Diff/Hub assemblies 3 available
- Center console armrest 1 available
- Some engines (read 4L v6's) 2 available
- Rear bumper (6 available)

Almost every other part was still on every truck...except impact damaged areas.

So I guess you could use the same technique to figure out the best of the worst?

 

[ma96782]

Transmissions are the big issue.......so, how about a manual???

Then again.....how about thinking of it another way.......say you buy a cheap vehicle. It breaks......so, what are the parts worth??

Or, get a more reliable classic bottom of the value vehicle?? If it breaks.....even IF you fix it, you get your $$ back.

Or say, I buy a used vehicle for X and sell it after you're finished w/ it..........so, purchase price minus my selling price = how much it cost you to use the vehicle for the 8 months........divide by 8.......and you got a cost per month. Does that look better?

Aloha, Mark

 

[wharriso]

I forgot to add in insurance. Here in Philly, its going to cost you at least $100/month for the most basic no-fault coverage.

But numbers aside, it would probabaly be a lot of fun buying a truck for cheap and getting it working the way you want. I have to admit that after seeing what these guys are doing on this board, even though I have an 06 X, every time I see a gen 1 or gen 2 for sale I pull over to look.

Good luck!

 

[Tony H]

I bought my '91 X with 186K on the Clock. It had a rebuilt trani in it already ( it lasted 12 months before it popped again.

The trani Definetly, after you take it for a ride, Smell for antifreeze. Intake manifold Gaskets are another issue on these guys.

Window Regulators break too. But if you are looking for a car to just buy you a few months, Keep the windows closed this winter.

Trani and Intake Gasket are big. The trani is costly to replace and the Intake manifold is very time consuming (6 hours when I did mine). after that...if it's running nice, it'll get you through the Lease time you have left.
I have 260K mile on mine now.

 

[ma96782]

I was thinking (dangerous) about this question last night.....thinking, WHAT IF.......I were in that situation.

Looking around........I figured an older (25 yrs old-no emmissions test) full size truck (FORD or CHEVY) w/ known good features (engine and trans) would be my best bet. Around here......less than $1000......they sort of have a bottom price......and they should last for the 8 months w/o problems (of course checkout the vehicle first)......after that you could sell and probably get all (IF NOT, close to) your money back.

As for insurance costs.....stop the insurance on the lease vehicle (Park It, on your pvt property). Put the insurance on the classic truck. You paid cash......so, IMHO, don't buy the comp/collision coverage.

As for the recreational 4x4 into the woods stuff.........well, getting a 4x4 will cost more.........compromise........what is more IMPORTANT.

Aloha, Mark

 

[wharriso]

I was thinking (dangerous) about this question last night.....thinking, WHAT IF.......I were in that situation.

Looking around........I figured an older (25 yrs old-no emmissions test) full size truck (FORD or CHEVY) w/ known good features (engine and trans) would be my best bet. Around here......less than $1000......they sort of have a bottom price......and they should last for the 8 months w/o problems (of course checkout the vehicle first)......after that you could sell and probably get all (IF NOT, close to) your money back.

As for insurance costs.....stop the insurance on the lease vehicle (Park It, on your pvt property). Put the insurance on the classic truck. You paid cash......so, IMHO, don't buy the comp/collision coverage.

As for the recreational 4x4 into the woods stuff.........well, getting a 4x4 will cost more.........compromise........what is more IMPORTANT.

Aloha, Mark

Well you know, full insurance coverage is part of the terms of financing a car. If you pull the insurance, the bank will reposess the car, then you'll really have problems!

Also, I don't know about other states but in Pennsylvania, minimal insurance is required to register a car. If they find out that you cancelled the insurance (they will because the insurance company has to report it), they will eventually get around to suspending your registration for several months and asking for the tags back. There really isn't any way around the insurance. You can, of course register the car in a rural area where insurace is dirt cheap but if its not your real residence, it's fraud if you get caught.