What are my options?

[koda2000]

Update: still on the hunt for conrod bolts. Ford parts giant is a no go, and i still havent heard back from the other site(cant recall the name) about it either. even my ebay seller sounds a bit sketchy, say he can only "get" 12. That worries me because he doesnt actually have them. May just bite the bullet and pay $5 a bolt and see if i get what i need. So, the search continues.

have you tried Summit Racing? maybe they have some ARP bolts that would work. i find their tech support is usually pretty good. or maybe contact ARP directly.

 

[koda2000]

OP, have you figured out how much it's going to cost you to rebuild your old engine? are you planning to send the block out to a machine shop to have it boiled, the heads magnifluxed, the cylinders bored, journals line-bored, block decked, valve job w/new guides & seals, crank resurfaced, replace all freeze plugs, clean the oil galleys and replacing the oil and water pumps? have you even been able to turn the engine over on the stand to see if the valves are toast?

i can tell you guys are into trying to rebuild this motor, but in my humble opinion i think you can get away cheaper (and maybe end up with a better motor) if you just got yourself a low mileage '05 Mustang 4.0 SOHC engine (true, it wont have the 4WD jack-shaft, but most don't think that's that big of a deal) and swapped long blocks. especially if your rebuild plan isn't going to include a trip to the machine shop. like i said, jmho.

 

[2000StreetRod]

escallation?

I agree with koda2000. You seem to have lost sight of your objective which I thought was to get your Explorer back on the road as cost effectively and quickly as possible. Now it seems like you're more intent on rebuilding for the experience. That's fine, but it's not the most cost effective approach. Even if you plan to keep the vehicle for five more years an engine swap is a good plan. Have you priced a 2005 or later Mustang engine?

 

[Blown98]

Sorry its taken awhile to get back, have been busy with work since they upped us to 48-60 hours a week now. I have no intentions of further disassembling this engine than it already is, i still want it to be as cost effective as possible. My main want(besides is being back on the road), is that it lasts long enough to find something else(engine wise, or maybe even vehicle wise). Being on a motorcycle in 20 degree weather is not my idea of fun. That means just the 2 new rod bolts and timing components. While i would prefer an engine swap, at this time it really isnt feasible for me to spend that extra money as of yet(if i still dont have the 4.0l engine in it by the end of december, i may buy a swap). Im about to email my ebay supplier and ask him where my tracking number is, since its been a week since i bought the con rod bolts and no word.

As has been suggested in several threads, and even here, if I were to install aftermarket conrod bolts(which dont exist for this engine(or maybe never have, since no one can answer that question for me(only for the OHV engine))), i would have to remove the crank to even get it out, then have the rod resized, completely defeating the purpose of my "budget build", since i would then have to buy new rod bolts all the way around.

Now in my "research", i came across this. (page 1 is crap) but page 2 is where alot of some good technical reading comes in about tty components. Now, since i dont know the original length or the stretched length of these bolts, i cant really determine if it's safe to re-use the bolts. And since Ford doesnt list these specs anywhere I have been able to find, i may be out of luck. The biggest risk here is it either snaps during re-torquing or i throw a rod(either way, its gonna be a bad time).

Hopefully this ebay guy is legit(sells a ton of ford parts with like a 99% rating), and it pans out ok.

Now, KODA, i have not been able to turn the engine over at all. Still need to go get longer bolts for my stand to try and space it further out. And yes, buying a newer engine is definitely looking more appealing, but i would love to figure this "problem" with rod bolts out so others can use this as a reference. Even an overall torque value would be helpful. In all honesty, i could care less about the balance shaft still being attached. Question is, which vin code engine would i need to buy to mate up to my computer and tranny? Code N seems to be the only one ive found. I also have the problem of my fuel pressure regulator still to consider here, since its built into the damn fuel line, all the way back to the tank(and there are no oem for sale in the world, and even if there was, it was $644 since mine is an Eddie Bauer edition).

As always, I appreciate the advice and help. And Happy Thanksgiving!

Edit: Added in a few words here and there i missed.

 

[2000StreetRod]

connecting rod nut or bolt?

I was under the impression that you just lost one of the connecting rod nuts. If so, why do you need a new bolt? Can't you find an equivalent nut of same thread and weight/size? I'm out of town and don't have my reference material but I don't remember the connecting rod bolts being TTY.

Some members have reused the TTY head bolts and the crankshaft balancer retaining bolt. I wouldn't do that more than once. If you don't know the history of the engine there's a small risk that someone has already reused them.

EDIT: I realized I had my flash drive with me that has the SOHC V6 assembly instructions on it. It looks like the connecting rod bolts are TTY:

"21. Tighten the connecting rod nuts simultaneously in 2 stages:
• Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
• Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees."

I suspect Stage 2 takes less than 50 lb-ft to achieve. If so, the bolt shouldn't break in my opinion and should probably be reliable up to the stock rev limiter value (6250 rpm).

 

[Blown98]

If we could determine the final torque(@90 degrees), then i could just torque it to that. However, in my mind, that defeats the entire purpose of using a TTY bolt. it stretches as its tightened, meaning it clamps more uniformly than a torque to spec(or whatever the proper name is) bolt. But, this is starting to turn into a thread i hate, devolves into mumbo jumbo mechanical engineering terminology and speculation. Supposedly my bolts will arrive today, so lets hope thats what really happens so this isnt just all posturing. And yes, i do still need that nut.

 

[koda2000]

as far as i know, a 2005 Mustang SOHC v6 long block is what you should be looking for for an engine swap. there are no computer or transmissions issues, as you'd be reusing the parts from your old engine (intake, injectors, sensors, etc). the only pieces you'd be using from the Mustang engine would be the block w/crank, cams, rods pistons and heads as is. i'd not sure about the oil pan or flywheel/flexplate, but if it all looks & measures the same you should be good to go.

 

[Blown98]

I was under the impression it would be a direct swap(of blocks) and i would just have to switch over electronics and fuel components(including new rubber seals for the injectors, etc).

Also, parts were estimated by ebay(since no tracking number was issued) to arrive today, and didnt, so i'll give it a few more days before i ask what gives. Makes me weary though, something this hard to find, that he will just say "must have gotten lost in the mail", and take the 12 bucks i paid for the 2 bolts lol.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Mustang engine swap

For what's involved see the following: Engine swap 98 sohc with 05 Mustang motor

 

[Blown98]

Welp, parts should be here tomorrow! Too bad im working 60 hours the next 5 days otherwise i would definitely put them in.

I have one last question for the moment, where can I find the connecting rod nuts? or the part number associated with them? The 2 places ive seen them online will only sell in bags of 12, for $275 which im hoping i wont have to pay. Anyone have one laying around in a locked up engine? I'll still pay the new nut cost too, a nice simple 20 bucks for ya.

 

[koda2000]

Welp, parts should be here tomorrow! Too bad im working 60 hours the next 5 days otherwise i would definitely put them in.

I have one last question for the moment, where can I find the connecting rod nuts? or the part number associated with them? The 2 places ive seen them online will only sell in bags of 12, for $275 which im hoping i wont have to pay. Anyone have one laying around in a locked up engine? I'll still pay the new nut cost too, a nice simple 20 bucks for ya.

this may be a stupid question, but why are you replacing the c/r nuts? i've never heard of non-reusable (TTY) nuts...

 

[Blown98]

When I broke the nut loose and subsequently spun it off, it fell out of my hand, hit my leg, and disappeared into some black hole in my friends garage. Spent 45 minutes looking for it and never found it. Thats why I need just 1.

Ive been doing some heavy googling into connecting rod nuts(just to see if there is any difference in them vs a regular nut other than the name) but it keeps turning up a whole lot of nothing, such as what grade steel they are(I only found 1 mention in some obscure forum that they were hardened), what ISO spec they are, things like that. Would be nice to find a supplier that sells individuals vs a bulk order from ford, such as this site that ive used before for different things. But what type of nut is it? Prevailing torque, heavy hex, regular hex....Im also somewhat concerned that if i use a non factory nut, it may toque differently when i try and stretch the new rod bolts, causing my rod to need to be resized and destroying the bearing. I am over thinking this, probably.

 

[koda2000]

When I broke the nut loose and subsequently spun it off, it fell out of my hand, hit my leg, and disappeared into some black hole in my friends garage. Spent 45 minutes looking for it and never found it. Thats why I need just 1.

Ive been doing some heavy googling into connecting rod nuts(just to see if there is any difference in them vs a regular nut other than the name) but it keeps turning up a whole lot of nothing, such as what grade steel they are(I only found 1 mention in some obscure forum that they were hardened), what ISO spec they are, things like that. Would be nice to find a supplier that sells individuals vs a bulk order from ford, such as this site that ive used before for different things. But what type of nut is it? Prevailing torque, heavy hex, regular hex....Im also somewhat concerned that if i use a non factory nut, it may toque differently when i try and stretch the new rod bolts, causing my rod to need to be resized and destroying the bearing. I am over thinking this, probably.

for $275, i'd spend more time looking for the one you dropped (it's gotta be there somewhere) or go to the pull-a-part and take one off a junker.

 

[Blown98]

Welp, have all my parts ordered and hopefully on the way soon!

Also, i put my new rod bolts in. There were 3 main differences between the ones i replaced and the new ones: 1. the shaft was grooved 2. the head was larger 3. the numerals stamped on the top were different

I must admit, installing rod bolts while the engine was still assembled was a nightmare. And owing to the difficulty of getting the new rod bolts installed(far harder to slide them in then to tap out), im concerned that my rod needs resized now. call me an overly worrisome person, but im concerned(as ive never installed rod bolts before while an engine was still fully assembled). however, removing the rod, that isnt feasible. so we are just going to roll on. Only thing left to purchase is the OTC 6488 tool kit and i should be good to go! (assuming i dont immediately throw a rod of spin/destroy a rod bearing)

 

[2000StreetRod]

RTV spots

When installing the block cradle and gaskets don't forget to apply RTV at the specified locations. I assume that your block is mounted so you are able to rotate the crankshaft and did so to replace the connecting rod bolts. Hopefully you prevented the pistons from striking the valves when rotating the crankshaft.

 

[Blown98]

I saw what you had mentioned about rtv in those assembly instructions, which again, thank you for that 2000StreetRod. And that is correct, i am now able to "freewheel" the crank and rotate it by hand. Since i still havent broken any bolts,etc loose, the timing is still locked in place, and i didnt have any difficulty turning the engine(except, of course, on the compression stroke/power stroke, then it was almost impossible and i had to wait for it to leak down to get it the rest of the way over).

 

[2000StreetRod]

remove the plugs

I suggest that you remove all of the spark plugs so the crankshaft can rotate easily. That way you can tell if there is any binding as you reassemble the engine.

 

[2000StreetRod]

update?

any progress to update?

 

[Blown98]

No updates as of yet, life seems to have thrown me a curve ball, but I am still considering my options. There seems to be a plethora of low mileage engines on ebay right now for rather cheap, unfortunately I will have to wait for my tax returns before i move forward. I still really dont feel comfortable assembling my current engine knowing 1 set of connecting rod bolts is far heavier than the others, i feel that would ultimately lead to throwing a rod, something i dont want to do, especially considering it could catch fire.

Now, it has been awhile since ive read through this thread, but the 5.0l will work with the 5r55e transmission, correct? Im assuming that that is the correct transmission i have(4x4 1998 Eddie Bauer 4.0L SOHC). Just want to get all my ducks in a row so that when I do finally choose what engine, if i DO swap it over to the v8, i know what else i will need to make it operational.

 

[2000StreetRod]

4r70w

The 5R55E will not bolt up to the 5.0L V8. There are numerous things that need to be changed when swapping from the V6 to the V8. The best (and cheapest) approach is to purchase a wrecked Explorer/Mountaineer with the drive train you need if you have a 2 door. That way you'll have everything you'll need for the conversion (PCM, drivetrain, radiator, exhaust manifolds, etc). You would still need a custom exhaust. If you have a 4 door, there's no advantage to doing the swap. Just buy a 4 door with the drivetrain you want and sell your V6 Explorer. It will be cheaper, faster, and a much greater chance of success.

Edit: I checked your original post that states you have an Eddie Bauer - a 4 door. Don't waste your time and money upgrading it to a V8. If you want a V8 sell what you have and buy a V8 model.