What are my options? | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums

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What are my options?

i highly recommend the V8 engine, but installing one in a 4dr to replace a V6 doesn't make economic sense. you have to change too many things (including the trans & t-case).
 



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Need a concise refresher

Now that I know I am getting a sizable amount of money back for my taxes, I am actively hunting for a 4.0L. The question i have now, as I go through ebay is, what year 4.0l engines will fit? I understand that 97-98 VIN E 4x4 or 4x2 are a direct swap, but as I look through these engines, and see very low mileage throughout several other years(currently have an 04 pulled up with only 41k). My understanding, based on this thread, is that all 4.0L SOHC will fit and work(as long as it is VIN E or not flex fuel), you just have to swap out the intake/fuel components. That is correct, is it not?

Ive gotta say, i miss driving my explorer and am overly excited that it is going back together.

EDIT: I am also interested in the Ranger 4.0L from 07-11...im finding them on fleabay for around the same price as an Explorer engine, but far less miles(Im talking less than 50k). Anyone have any experience or know where i can ask to figure out the differences?
 






I have a question form you experts!! I found pieces of plastic in the oil pan when I changed the gasket this weekend. For a couple weeks - after changing fan belt - I have been hearing a rattle like sound coming from somewhere in front of the engine and sometimes it sounds like it is coming from under the driver side. After reading this and another thread I am kind of convinced that the plastic parts around the chain are broken. Oil pump screen is intact, no broken mesh. Explorer purrs like a baby and drives like just out of factory. No rattling sounds. Sounds only come up when just starting engine and lasts for a few seconds.

Question: Do I really have to take out engine to apply the replacement kit???

anyone?????

Tks.
 






Again noise started after replacing fan belt!!
 






which replacement kit?

. . . I found pieces of plastic in the oil pan when I changed the gasket this weekend. For a couple weeks - after changing fan belt - I have been hearing a rattle like sound coming from somewhere in front of the engine and sometimes it sounds like it is coming from under the driver side. After reading this and another thread I am kind of convinced that the plastic parts around the chain are broken. Oil pump screen is intact, no broken mesh. Explorer purrs like a baby and drives like just out of factory. No rattling sounds. Sounds only come up when just starting engine and lasts for a few seconds.

Question: Do I really have to take out engine to apply the replacement kit???
. . .

I don't know what replacement kit you're referring to. Plastic parts in the oil pan are not the result of replacing the fan belt. It is not necessary to remove the engine to replace the front (left) cassette. In order to replace the rear (right) cassette it is necessary to either remove the engine or remove the transmission and work in a tight space while under the vehicle.
 






I don't know what replacement kit you're referring to. Plastic parts in the oil pan are not the result of replacing the fan belt. It is not necessary to remove the engine to replace the front (left) cassette. In order to replace the rear (right) cassette it is necessary to either remove the engine or remove the transmission and work in a tight space while under the vehicle.

I explained the issue to a technician at Westrac and they advised me that the cassettes may have been broken. That they have a replacement kit. I would imagine that it includes what I need and perhaps new gaskets???

Tks for your comment though.
 






Funny thing is that all the years (10) I have had this vehicle I have never found the need to seek a mechanic. Little mtce ie; tie rods, spark plugs, oil change etc, I have done my self. Bam, I need to change fan belt and because of a bad back aching me I go to a mechanic and things begin to happen. lol.
What a luck!!! lol
 






Quick question to clearly understand. Mine is a 1998 Explorer XLT 4.0 6 cy SOHC 2WD. Does this have the guides both at the front and back of the engine. Plan to take in to a mechanic sometime tomorrow??
Tks in advance.
 






front & rear guides

Quick question to clearly understand. Mine is a 1998 Explorer XLT 4.0 6 cy SOHC 2WD. Does this have the guides both at the front and back of the engine. Plan to take in to a mechanic sometime tomorrow??
Tks in advance.

Yes
 






Yes, both ends were damaged or badly deteriorated. Had to change everthing that moves plus water pump and thermostat... Total cost US$750.00 plus US$150.00 for Taxi service to go to work. Mech has had vehicle now for ten days.
 






6RkgzEJ


Got back my X yesterday (after 17days :mad:)

Aesthetically it looks dam good. The whole engine bay and parts are immaculately clean and the engine block itself looks like it just came from factory, no corrosion, stains etc.


BUT - there is an annoying knocking sound coming from the engine. Like when tappets are bad (which they are not). Once you run the engine for a good 10 to 15 minutes it stops. The mechanic says that if it does not stop doing this to bring it back. Now I could have left it and tell him FIX IT, but decided to take it home less than a mile away. No other sound coming from front or back of engine.

All chains, plastic parts broken or not, were changed on both sides. Water pump and ALL gaskets and externally visible seals were replaced at a cost of Belize $763.18 US$381.59 plus US$275.00 labour cost. Total US$656.59. Not a bad price BUT I did not pay to have my engine start knocking.

He says he did make sure crankshaft "keyway" was properly aligned and that the 1 piston was at TDC highest position.

Can someone throw some light on why this is now happening. Will be much obliged.

How do I get image unto this have not done it in years lol

http://imgur.com/6RkgzEJ

http://imgur.com/M6wILfx

http://imgur.com/kP46PJV
 






It sounds like it may be one of the tensioners. I assume they were replaced. Be sure the correct part was installed on each side (they are different). Some of the aftermarket ones have very weak springs and son't apply much pressure until the oil pressure builds in the tensioner. Your mechanic needs to locate it for you and get it fixed. Take it back.
 






It sounds like it may be one of the tensioners. I assume they were replaced. Be sure the correct part was installed on each side (they are different). Some of the aftermarket ones have very weak springs and son't apply much pressure until the oil pressure builds in the tensioner. Your mechanic needs to locate it for you and get it fixed. Take it back.

Thanks! Phew!!! Was worried a bit there. The knocking sound at start and then dies out is actually caused by the "Tension Pulley". Dammit I just replaced that last October. When you turn the key you keep your eye on the pulley and you see it shaking and rattling for a good 10 seconds after you start.

Will have it replaced first thing in the morning.

Now I have a question! The transmission fluid. Can the oil be sucked out through the fill tube. I have one of those long tubes with a "squeeze" bulb one uses for out board engines. Was thinking of placing X on a ramp and put the suction end of the tube down the fill tube and pump out as much oil as I can. Then replace the amount I take out. Plan to do this twice before going down to removing pan and dealing with gaskets and filter.

What is the advice here!!???
 






Yes, the fluid can be suctioned out through the tube. Not sure whether your squeeze bulb will be enough suck for that though. But if you are going to drop the pan anyway, why would you bother? I'd just drop the pan and get on with it. Whatever works for you.

When you previously replaced the pulley, did you just change the pulley or the whole tensioner? You probably need the whole tensioner if it has never been changed. Easy fix though.
 






Yes, the fluid can be suctioned out through the tube. Not sure whether your squeeze bulb will be enough suck for that though. But if you are going to drop the pan anyway, why would you bother? I'd just drop the pan and get on with it. Whatever works for you.

When you previously replaced the pulley, did you just change the pulley or the whole tensioner? You probably need the whole tensioner if it has never been changed. Easy fix though.

The whole tensioner was replaced. Two other vehicles were at the workshop doing the same thing. Hope my tensioner was not mixed up withe others. By any means have gotten new one and they will "drop" what they are doing and replace later today.

Regards to Trans Oil, I just thought that if I drop the pan not all the oil will come out. By sucking it out I can get up to 98% out. However, I have decided to drop the pan 3 times as a full flush may bring problems which I do not need. After 3 refills I should be able to "revive" my oil to at least a 85% "new" oil.

That is my project for this weekend along with changing tie rods, and sway bar end links.

I plan to replace vehicle by end June. So, all those little mtce parts I am replacing. Of course the raking of the chain guide was not envisioned. lol.

My new choice is a 2013 or 2014 I am following at Copart. They both have superficial damage and low mileage (below 30,000).
 






Regards to Trans Oil, I just thought that if I drop the pan not all the oil will come out. By sucking it out I can get up to 98% out. However, I have decided to drop the pan 3 times as a full flush may bring problems which I do not need. After 3 refills I should be able to "revive" my oil to at least a 85% "new" oil.

Undo the trans cooler lines, dump one into a bucket he nother one sucks up new trans fluid.

you'll replace most of your fluid pretty easily that way.
 






Undo the trans cooler lines, dump one into a bucket he nother one sucks up new trans fluid.

you'll replace most of your fluid pretty easily that way.

You know for quite a while I have been toying the idea of doing it this way. But I guess I have not dveloped the spunk... lol I love the idea though and it seems very easy.

What about the "disturbing" of "hard" stuff within the trans. Will these come loose and create problems???? lol...
 






The whole tensioner was replaced. Two other vehicles were at the workshop doing the same thing. Hope my tensioner was not mixed up withe others. By any means have gotten new one and they will "drop" what they are doing and replace later today.

Regards to Trans Oil, I just thought that if I drop the pan not all the oil will come out. By sucking it out I can get up to 98% out. However, I have decided to drop the pan 3 times as a full flush may bring problems which I do not need. After 3 refills I should be able to "revive" my oil to at least a 85% "new" oil.

That is my project for this weekend along with changing tie rods, and sway bar end links.

I plan to replace vehicle by end June. So, all those little mtce parts I am replacing. Of course the raking of the chain guide was not envisioned. lol.

My new choice is a 2013 or 2014 I am following at Copart. They both have superficial damage and low mileage (below 30,000).

Just had my tension pulley replaced _ pro Bono _ . All strange sounds gone and engine rolling or purring like a kitten....
 






Y
What about the "disturbing" of "hard" stuff within the trans. Will these come loose and create problems???? lol...

Do you mean gunk inside the trans?

The method i described shouldn't dislodge anything any more yjan normal running would.

BTW, the cooler lines have a thermostat so the trans has to be up to running temperature to get any flow to the cooler.

Somebody here might know how to bypass it.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Do you mean gunk inside the trans?

The method i described shouldn't dislodge anything any more yjan normal running would.

BTW, the cooler lines have a thermostat so the trans has to be up to running temperature to get any flow to the cooler.

Somebody here might know how to bypass it.

Somewhere in my "electronic" library I have a step by step guide on how to do it, including pictures. I may be wrong but I think I got it from this forum. Not so sure!!
 






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