. . . I found pieces of plastic in the oil pan when I changed the gasket this weekend. For a couple weeks - after changing fan belt - I have been hearing a rattle like sound coming from somewhere in front of the engine and sometimes it sounds like it is coming from under the driver side. After reading this and another thread I am kind of convinced that the plastic parts around the chain are broken. Oil pump screen is intact, no broken mesh. Explorer purrs like a baby and drives like just out of factory. No rattling sounds. Sounds only come up when just starting engine and lasts for a few seconds.
Question: Do I really have to take out engine to apply the replacement kit???
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I don't know what replacement kit you're referring to. Plastic parts in the oil pan are not the result of replacing the fan belt. It is not necessary to remove the engine to replace the front (left) cassette. In order to replace the rear (right) cassette it is necessary to either remove the engine or remove the transmission and work in a tight space while under the vehicle.
Quick question to clearly understand. Mine is a 1998 Explorer XLT 4.0 6 cy SOHC 2WD. Does this have the guides both at the front and back of the engine. Plan to take in to a mechanic sometime tomorrow??
Tks in advance.
It sounds like it may be one of the tensioners. I assume they were replaced. Be sure the correct part was installed on each side (they are different). Some of the aftermarket ones have very weak springs and son't apply much pressure until the oil pressure builds in the tensioner. Your mechanic needs to locate it for you and get it fixed. Take it back.
Yes, the fluid can be suctioned out through the tube. Not sure whether your squeeze bulb will be enough suck for that though. But if you are going to drop the pan anyway, why would you bother? I'd just drop the pan and get on with it. Whatever works for you.
When you previously replaced the pulley, did you just change the pulley or the whole tensioner? You probably need the whole tensioner if it has never been changed. Easy fix though.
Regards to Trans Oil, I just thought that if I drop the pan not all the oil will come out. By sucking it out I can get up to 98% out. However, I have decided to drop the pan 3 times as a full flush may bring problems which I do not need. After 3 refills I should be able to "revive" my oil to at least a 85% "new" oil.
Undo the trans cooler lines, dump one into a bucket he nother one sucks up new trans fluid.
you'll replace most of your fluid pretty easily that way.
The whole tensioner was replaced. Two other vehicles were at the workshop doing the same thing. Hope my tensioner was not mixed up withe others. By any means have gotten new one and they will "drop" what they are doing and replace later today.
Regards to Trans Oil, I just thought that if I drop the pan not all the oil will come out. By sucking it out I can get up to 98% out. However, I have decided to drop the pan 3 times as a full flush may bring problems which I do not need. After 3 refills I should be able to "revive" my oil to at least a 85% "new" oil.
That is my project for this weekend along with changing tie rods, and sway bar end links.
I plan to replace vehicle by end June. So, all those little mtce parts I am replacing. Of course the raking of the chain guide was not envisioned. lol.
My new choice is a 2013 or 2014 I am following at Copart. They both have superficial damage and low mileage (below 30,000).
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What about the "disturbing" of "hard" stuff within the trans. Will these come loose and create problems???? lol...
Do you mean gunk inside the trans?
The method i described shouldn't dislodge anything any more yjan normal running would.
BTW, the cooler lines have a thermostat so the trans has to be up to running temperature to get any flow to the cooler.
Somebody here might know how to bypass it.