What's that sound?

[JackDH]

Hello,
I don't think its anything mechanical.
YOU MAY HAVE SOMETHING LOOSE UNDER THE VEHICLE
THAT IS FLAPPING FROM THE WIND TURBULENCE.......J

 

[TsherryUSA]

Exhaust is suspect, didn't think of that. I could believe a sway bar link as well.
I believe Timken is the OEM supplier for the wheel bearings. I have one on the driver's rear of my mountaineer. No issues with it after 5,000 miles. But this really doesn't seem like a wheel bearing. A wheel bearing would have given many obvious symptoms of being worn before getting to this point. Any grinding or other strange wailing or howling noises at speed?

No other strange sounds at speed. Again this sound seems to happen randomly. Sometimes at 10mph, 30mph, I've even observed it at 50 - 70 mph. I would say it has the same cadence at 30 as with the higher mph, but is maybe louder at higher mph.

 

[TsherryUSA]

Hello,
I don't think its anything mechanical.
YOU MAY HAVE SOMETHING LOOSE UNDER THE VEHICLE
THAT IS FLAPPING FROM THE WIND TURBULENCE.......J

That was honestly my first thought when it started happening. Like a rock caught up somewhere under the vehicle rattling. I've spent a decent amount of time under the vehicle just looking for anything loose. Haven't seen anything suspect yet.

 

[fast_dave]

@TsherryUSA

Lift it high on jack stands at all four corners, give it a shove from each side to make sure it's not going to fall, start 'er up and put it in drive.

Or bring it to a shop, have them lift it and pay 'em to do the same.

It's one of things things that you have to start with the basics and rule them out one-by-one.

 

[JackDH]

Back at you Tim,

Look under the hood, sure sounds like a turbulence thing, even a vent flap !

 

[TsherryUSA]

Hey All, small update. Rotated the tires a few weeks ago. Tires all looked in great condition, no damage. When I had the vehicle up, the hubs did not exhibit the wobble that typically indicates bad hubs.

Sound is still coming from the front end of the vehicle. Briefly drove it in 4WD through a muddy field and didn't get the sound or any other bad noises during.

I'm a fair weather mechanic, and with the weather getting worse I might not do much more investigating myself. Will probably drop it off at the mechanic in the coming weeks.

Thanks all!

 

[CDW6212R]

I gather this truck has had the front ABS sensors replaced, but how old are the hubs? With the large bolt on unit hubs, the bearings can make noises without other obvious bad symptoms like growling etc.

If the ABS light comes on, and the rear sensor is not the problem, that's an indication of a bad front hub, which will take out the sensor due to bearing damage.

How old is all the fluid in the truck, bad things happen way more when fluids don't get replaced properly.

I'd change both front hubs if they are unknowns or originals, 100k miles is enough to say it's time. Don't buy cheap hubs, they should cost more than $75(good hunting for best prices of better brands). I like the best brand as I discover it, I bought four OEM hubs in the beginning, then a couple of Timkens, and lately the SKF is my preferred(supposed to be beefier internally).

Rear wheel bearings will also make odd noises, that's what the OP symptoms sound like. But if it's from the front, then those are unlikely. I change the rear bearings also out of maintenance, on a purchased used car. Those are on my list right now, I have a rear noise that sounds like either the diff, or the rear bearings. I'm hoping for the bearings, those are not too bad to replace.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Pull your front driveshaft. Sounds an awful lot like a failed front CV on the prop shaft.

 

[CDW6212R]

Pull your front driveshaft. Sounds an awful lot like a failed front CV on the prop shaft.

Yes, could be, at least look at the boot. I listened to that clip after my post, that noise is the interior dash sounds. The mechanical vibration force is strong enough to vibrate the whole truck, and the dash etc. That's a lot like a bad bearing, or CV joint etc. The hub bearings will usually have symptoms that effect most speeds and conditions. The CV joint can be smooth most of the time, and really rough for short periods.

If the CV boot is broken open, the joint is toast and can be replaced. If there's no leaking, you'll have to remove the shaft to inspect it better.

If a new CV joint is needed, do not buy the Detroit Axle version, that brand has come out recently and has very bad reviews. The Dorman model is better, about $75 last I checked.

 

[Turdle]

^^^
It will feel tight and might even look good while installed. Remove the shaft, then take it to a bench with good lighting.
You might not need the lighting though once it is off and flopping around in your hand. Any play in the cv joint is no good.

 

[TsherryUSA]

Not sure if this is really a case closed, but figured I would post an update while on here...
The sound disappeared sometime in December. I have not heard it once this year. Good news? I'll take it for now, but feels unsatisfactory if there actually is a problem somewhere.