Wheel, and TPMS question

[BrianDye]

Finally picked out some wheels. I emailed this company that specializes in getting you a list of wheel/tire combo's that fit your vehicle with its modifications but I don't know if they take the spacing into consideration.

Im pretty set on the BFG KO2 tires, or the Nitto Terra Grapplers, but the wheel is the Fuel "Pump" D515, 18" by 9"

The specific wheel model is "D51518902650" which is a 5x4.5 and 5x5 pattern.

Specs are as follows:
Offset: 1 (What does that even mean?)
Backspacing: 5.04
18" diameter
9" wide

I do not want to run spacers. I love the look of wheels and tires that stick out a bit, and thats actually what I would like to see, but id rather run a wheel with the offset or whatever to give me that look.

When the Traxda lift is installed, it brings the hubs in a bit, so what will this wheel look like without a spacer? Offset and spacing are like Chinese to me...i've read threads about it.


And from my understanding, we have the "band" style tire pressure sensors. One of mine sometimes throws a fit, and triggers my light to flash even though I have proper pressure. I read that i'm way past the point of when these bands' batteries should've died, rendering them useless. I would like to upgrade to the now-normal style valve stem ones. Pro's/Con's of either style? I mean they both do the same thing, so I doubt it really matters, just seems like the stem style would be cheaper?

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[Partsman109]

As far as the TPMS...I read on this forum that a couple guys changed over from the band clamp style to the valve stem mounted without issue.

...with valve stem mounted sensors, the tire doesn't need to be dismounted completely off the rim to change a bad/defective sensor...other than that, they should outlast the tires!

...with band clamp sensors, I run BMW aluminum valve stems on my wife's Explorer...they look better and it's much easier to check the pressure on a non-flexible stem.

As far as offset...the higher the number the more the wheel is pulled in to the body, the lower the number the more it's pushed out.

http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

 

[Tech By Trade]

I threw a set of orange electronics stem sensors in my boss rims and havent looked back. I use my factory rims with winter wheels and one of them was having an error, guessing the battery is going. It will be replaced with an orange electronics sensor next fall before winter hits.
As for offset, you can go from 25mm, which is the max it will stick out, to 45mm offset which the deepest it will go, and is the actual factory wheel. My Boss rims are 8 inches wide, with 25mm offset, and the outside of the wheel runs flush with the fender flairs.

 

[BrianDye]

I'm lost with these wheels, it just says offset: 1

Doesn't say inches, mm, anything.

 

[BrianDye]

Ok, so I found a wheel/tire calculator website. For the wheel, I put in my Fuel wheel specs, 18" wheel, 9" wide, and then it asks for offset, and/or backspacing. Offset was set to negative by default, so I typed in "1" and it automatically showed 4.something in the backspace section. I changed the -1 to +1 and it changed the BS to 5.04" which is what the wheel specs show, so its a positive 1mm offset.

Tech, you mention the stock wheels are a +45mm offset, so im thinking this should give it a great stance, with the tires sticking out just a tad from the fenders, which is what I want.

This is a picture I snagged from another thread of Explorer0693's rig:

Same color as mine, and coincidentally we both have tinted fogs. His sig says he's running a 265/75/16 tire, on his stock wheels, and has 2" spacers. I love how his tires just peek out of the fender though.

Tech, ill have to look those TPMS sensors up, sounds like a straightforward swap. Partsman, I didn't know they had solid valve stems, I hate checking/filling tires because of that issue right there, lol. Definitely going to check into those if I run band style sensors.

Im clueless about these systems, when/if I put valve stem sensors on, does my X automatically register them and work? Or is that something ill have to pay for to have done as well?

Another one I found from another thread of his:

 

[Tech By Trade]

You need to program the new sensors. If you don't swap rims i would get a shop to program them, should be a couple bucks. If you do swap rims like me in the winter, a programmer is your bet. Any programmer that will do oem rims will work. Usually around 25 bucks.
You may go through ball joints and your ride characteristics will be off. Min spec is 25mm. 1mm will put you out to far so the suspension geometry will be off. Other then that it should work.

 

[BrianDye]

I've already ordered the BTF upper control arms which has the large uniball mall joint to work with the lift without stress, so I'm not too worried about that. If I have to replace them every year or two, oh well I guess.

I will hopefully be getting another daily driver for work sooner than I thought, so the X will be parked a lot.