Where to buy AC instrument socket bulbs - pic | Ford Explorer Forums

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Where to buy AC instrument socket bulbs - pic

blk88

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June 16, 2008
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City, State
Phoenix, AZ
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 EB
I did some searching yesterday but I couldn't find anyone talking about where to get these bulbs. Everyone switches to LED, which I get why, but I don't want to change all my bulbs to LED's and I don't want one cluster lit by LED's and the other bulbs. I would like to just replace the stock bulbs. The dealership wants $16 a bulb. I have 3 burned out and I'd like to replace all 5. Anyone know where you can get them for less?

IMG_4684.jpg
 



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Go to most any autoparts store, and they should have them.:thumbsup:
 












I believe that bulb is the same as the bulb for the cruise control switches. If so, you will need to purchase a bulb for a Ford Contour clock, Part number
E5RY-13466-BA. For the other switches, such as rear defroster and fog lights, Radio Shack has a bulb that will work, item 272-1092.
 






I believe that bulb is the same as the bulb for the cruise control switches. If so, you will need to purchase a bulb for a Ford Contour clock, Part number
E5RY-13466-BA. For the other switches, such as rear defroster and fog lights, Radio Shack has a bulb that will work, item 272-1092.

Just called about the Ford Contour clock, Part number E5RY-13466-BA and the dealer said they don't show it as a stocked item. These bulbs are a pain! :frustrate
 












Are you sure that the bulb doesnt pull out of the base like the instrument panel bulbs?
 






The bulbs fit in the black socket you see in the picture. What is different is they have long lead wires that actually come out of the socket and then wrap around an indentation in the socket base. This wrapping is what allows the bulb to make contact.
 






The bulbs fit in the black socket you see in the picture. What is different is they have long lead wires that actually come out of the socket and then wrap around an indentation in the socket base. This wrapping is what allows the bulb to make contact.

Yeah and they are very small holes and tight wraps for the leads, which makes it next to impossible to try replace the bulb. Plus it is the copper contact that sandwiches the lead wires that creates the contact once screwed into the circuit board. You need some pretty fine instruments to be able to disect it and replace the bulb.
 






It is actually easier than you might think to replace just the bulbs. I had to replace several bulbs in my various switches (rear defroster, fog lights) in addition to my cruise control switch bulbs.
 






Well I guess I'll have to take one of the burned out ones and give it a shot. I'd still rather try and find a place that I could buy new ones. I'm all about doing stuff myself, but with something like this I would think I could just buy new ones, screw them in and be done in 5 minutes and not mess with taking it apart and replacing the bulb. Seems difficult for such a simple piece.
 






Well I guess I'll have to take one of the burned out ones and give it a shot. I'd still rather try and find a place that I could buy new ones. I'm all about doing stuff myself, but with something like this I would think I could just buy new ones, screw them in and be done in 5 minutes and not mess with taking it apart and replacing the bulb. Seems difficult for such a simple piece.

http://cgi.ebay.com/STANLEY-INCANDE...80mA-6pcs_W0QQitemZ360030573279QQcmdZViewItem

Worth a shot! I'm pretty sure they will fit.
 






Perfect....I was just about to start ripping these things apart. I just order some...6 for $3.20 shipped. Much better than $15.95 a peice. I'll let everyone know if they work. Thanks 96eb96!
 






I got the bulbs and the contacts are a little different. I decided to give them a shot and the plastic socket needed to be trimmed up a little to get it to fit. Once I got them to fit I couldn't get the correct contact even with moving the leads into different positions. I continued to search for the correct bulbs with no luck. I think I will be doing LED's or just soldering a bulb to the circuit board. I'll keep you posted. You can see in the pics the differences in the contact areas.

OEM bulb
IMG_4689.jpg


New bulb
14V_80mA_Neo_Wedge_Lamp_007604.jpg
 






If the bulb heights are the same (the new ones look taller though), I'm 51% sure that the glass portion pulls out of the base... Just replace the glass portion from the new bulbs into your old bases?
 






If the bulb heights are the same (the new ones look taller though), I'm 51% sure that the glass portion pulls out of the base... Just replace the glass portion from the new bulbs into your old bases?

The OEM bulbs are "married" to the base, but I did get them out and replace with others that are larger than the ebay bulbs. You may have to break up the bulb.

The bulbs he bought can be carefully removed and transplanted. The replacement bulb I used was larger. I got replacement bulbs from:

http://www.trainsetelectronics.com/Product_Categories_Pricing.htm

I looked under lamps, bought a handful of each. You have to do a lot of trial and error here. 80ma is the correct amperage not to make it look too dim.
 






Well I got tired of looking for the right bulb at a fair price and just used the ones I got from eBay. I removed the bulb from the base and soldered them to the board. All went well until I notce that I soldered them on the wrong side of the board. I removed them and put them on the right side. All works well. Thanks evetone for the help!

IMG_4691.jpg
 






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