Where to find cv axle nut and dust excluder seal?

[SmoothJimmy]

Looking for a reasonably priced option for the "cv axle nut" (32mm) and the cv dust excluder seals (between knuckle and cv axle)

Ford wants $35 for the seals and $23 for each axle nut. Seems and IS very pricey! Tried most of the online shops and Autozone with no success.

Do guys replace the dust excluder seals when the hubs are replaced? Mine seemed to be doing little to prevent dust or water from getting at the hub bearing, but dont "look" worn. I read that some guys don't even bother, but up here in rain country, USA, keeping water out is a requirement.

thanks in advance

 

[gijoecam]

I pulled mine out about three years ago when they fell out while doing the hubs. Never bothered to put them back in (though I hadn't expected to have the truck at this point either...)

 

[Carguy3J]

Dorman # 615-072 for the nut. $1.99 at RockAuto Although it is listed as the front, for a RWD Explorer, in the Dorman catalog, I think it will work. The detailed application listing has this nut listed for hundreds of models going back to the '60s, including Dodge, Ford, Jeep,etc... It is also listed for vehicles that always had front cv axles, including Caravans; so I'm pretty sure this will work for yours.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-...=&start=&vfrom=&prev=&vnext=&category_list=:0

New/reman cv axles usually come with new dust seals installed, as well as new nuts.

I know "they" say not to reuse the nuts, but given the difficulty in finding/buying them, I usually do reuse them if I'm not replacing the cv axle. As long as they retain there "oblong" shape, they should still crush/hold ok.

 

[Turdle]

I would use the old nut before even reaching a foot for a dorman nut.

 

[SmoothJimmy]

Thanks for the advice guys.
I'm trying to do the "right" thing here and given that nut holds my brand new Timken SP450200 bearing assemblys together ($120ea from Autozone after Amazon price match...Autozone are the nicest folks here in Federal Way, WA) AND the Ford service manual (Haynes too!) goes to extra lengths (lotsa bold, oversize type) to reinforce NOT to reuse the nut, I began my fruitless hunt.

I just so happen to have a Grand Caravan in the driveway too and checked the front axle nut situation there. It uses a hub nut followed by a washer and a cottered nut, so no go there.

Maybe this is a job for loctite?

Could it be that Ford doesn't want folks repeatedly removing/reusing that nut? But since this is the first time the nut has been removed after 150k miles of fairly troublefree service, it'll be OK. Of course, with that service frequency, I should just pony up the $45 and call it a day. Hate to tho.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

I would use the old nut before even reaching a foot for a dorman nut.

Amen to that. Dorman=CRAP.

 

[96eb96]

I would use the old nut before even reaching a foot for a dorman nut.

yeah, the dorman nut on my Thunderbird (CV) rear axles that were torqued to 250ft/lbs using a 2' breaker bar and my weight are now loose after a year. Its not the same nut as the EX (its 36mm)and dorman is the only choice. I ended up putting a lot of locktite red, I can always heat it a bit to get it off.

 

[SmoothJimmy]

Ford also recommends in bold type that the halfshaft inner retaining clip (the green clip on the right side of the picture) be replaced if the halfshaft has been removed. However, a Ford dealer stated that this part was no longer made and stock was scattered throughout the NW. I thought it was curious that, with so many Dana 35's out there, there would be demand for this part.

Are they available in the aftermarket (besides already existing on replacement halfshafts)?

I began to wonder if guys just reused the originals and what "real" detention they provide. When I removed my left halfshaft, it took little more than a 'yank' with my fingers on the inner CV casing (rusty part at left) to remove. No prying as some have mentioned.

Does this clip REALLY prevent the inner part of the shaft from moving axially? or is it just a signal that the shaft has been inserted fully? Or is it intended to keep the shaft from accidentily sliding out and leaking oil when servicing hubs, for instance.

Shoud the ease with which I removed the halfshaft be a cause for concern? Is my shaft possibly moving around and could this cause wear/noise?

 

[deliberate]

Do guys replace the dust excluder seals when the hubs are replaced?

Mine are still original but recently starting really making nasty noises. If/when I do the hubs, I think I'd look around a lot to try to find replacements. See my recent thread on adressing the squeak here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=266041

Let us know what you finally find out.

TIA,
- Don

 

[SmoothJimmy]

After cleaning them up, my dust seals are in pretty good shape, so I'll repack 'em and slap 'em on. For service manuals make no mention of replacing them and some folks dont even bother unless they plan to get muddy.

My focus has shifted to the other side of the halfshaft, where that pesky green c-clip is found. Unavailable thru Ford dealers and creates a glazed, glassy-eyed look from aftermarket b&m shops when polled.

Still wonderin' how many folks just re-use. Maybe that's why Ford stopped bothering to stock.

 

[99SportX]

I got some new nuts from rockauto.com They had a selection with multiple options if I remember correctly. The nuts are crimped slightly at the ends so they act as a locknut. I have them still in the box as I decided to reuse my old ones, properly torqued.

 

[gijoecam]

After cleaning them up, my dust seals are in pretty good shape, so I'll repack 'em and slap 'em on. For service manuals make no mention of replacing them and some folks dont even bother unless they plan to get muddy.

My focus has shifted to the other side of the halfshaft, where that pesky green c-clip is found. Unavailable thru Ford dealers and creates a glazed, glassy-eyed look from aftermarket b&m shops when polled.

Still wonderin' how many folks just re-use. Maybe that's why Ford stopped bothering to stock.

Contact a bearing/pulley/belt/gear supplier. (Applied Industrial, Motion Industries, and Bearing Services come to mind in the upper midwest) They should all be able to get you the circlip you need for under a buck... You'll need to know the specs off the old one and possibly the shaft (width of the groove, and diameter of the spline, specs from the old one couldn't hurt). Might even be able to contact a company like A-1 Cardone who rebuilds those halfshafts and see if either they can supply you with a couple, or point you in the direction of a supplier that can. It can't hurt to ask...