Completed Project - Wrapping up the 4.0 SOHC rebuild | Ford Explorer Forums

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Completed Project Wrapping up the 4.0 SOHC rebuild

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amj441

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 13, 2015
Messages
211
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134
City, State
Houston, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer xlt
Hello all,
I have recently almost finished my 4.0sohc rebuild and am having difficulty remember where wires and evap lines are routed. I have the strange in-between year of a 1999 engine but 2000 model. I have them almost done, but Im missing bolts and I have surplus (not good).

Ill be including some photos and if someone can help me confirm which bolts are what it would appreciated.
Let me know if you spot something out of place. (I do have the thermostat housing and crossover pipe, but im missing bolts for the heater core bracket.)

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The 4
Long gold bolts are for the ac compressor I believe the 3 Others are alternator, so some of those Bolts are left over because they are for accessories you have not mounted yet
Two of them look like starter bolts
Some possible exhaust bolts

Looks like you are doing a good job thus far! Keep going
 






The 4
Long gold bolts are for the ac compressor I believe the 3 Others are alternator, so some of those Bolts are left over because they are for accessories you have not mounted yet
Two of them look like starter bolts
Some possible exhaust bolts

Looks like you are doing a good job thus far! Keep going
Thank you very much. I have discovered after sticking the engine in the car today that the gold ones are for the a/c, the Rusted ones are exhaust. The Brown ones with a neck 2 short, 4 medium and two long are for the transmission. The small silver bracket is for the alternator wire and bolts on with the mounting bolt.

Starter bolts are two REALLY skinny ones that are not in this magnet tray. I am worried about the copious amounts of small bolts and nuts that may not make it to their home. So far as I put things in, they stand out and I find their place.

I will post better pictures when Its complete.

Going In.jpg



Below Is a clear photo of the front of the engine without the accessories so people can
99 4.0 sohc front view.jpg
 






Hello,

that looks very nice, so much work in doing the timing chains(?), cleaning and painting.
Ask myself why you do not install the brakets for alternator, AC and steering pump before?

Looking at your picture i would recomend to change the marked parts if possible.
The waterpump clamps like to fail and the short hose could crack .
The evap hose is cracked already, the egr o-ring seems worn.
(Did you use new hoses for the dpfe sensor?
The metal thermostat housing is good until it get leaks.)
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Had the same "problem" with different bolts, so i put them in until i used them.
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Push all thumbs for the first firing!

kind regards

Wolfgang
 






Hello,

that looks very nice, so much work in doing the timing chains(?), cleaning and painting.
Ask myself why you do not install the brakets for alternator, AC and steering pump before?

Looking at your picture i would recomend to change the marked parts if possible.
The waterpump clamps like to fail and the short hose could crack .
The evap hose is cracked already, the egr o-ring seems worn.
(Did you use new hoses for the dpfe sensor?
The metal thermostat housing is good until it get leaks.)
View attachment 448992

Had the same "problem" with different bolts, so i put them in until i used them.
View attachment 448993

View attachment 448994

Push all thumbs for the first firing!

kind regards

Wolfgang

Hey wolfgang!

Thank you for the kind spots and heads up! Your engine looks so pretty, Where did you find a replacement egr tube O-ring? mine is old but working, but I would love to replace it. I see you have the 97-98 variant with additional fuel lines. Did you have difficulty removing your crankcase vent? mine cracked right at the neck and I was unable to source one. I installed a freeze plug, a vent filter on the valve cover, and have blocked the lines in the rear of the intake instead. it is unfortunately a discontinued part, and the only metal ones being created back in the Pinto days of the cologne block.

Here ill provide my answers to your questions from your reply:

- I didnt install the power steering and alternator brackets before installing the engine, as it was easier for us to install the engine with less accessories in the way. It was a tight squeeze with the crane that I have. I also had no removed the a/c compressor or lines and left them in the vehicle when I pulled the engine. Leaving the a/c compressor off also gives you a bit more room with the fuel lines and evap hoses that go to the charcoal canister.

- For the water pump small hose, that dent is from the clamp sitting on that hose for almost a year since i removed the engine in April of 2023. That small hose was replaced in november of 2022 so it is fairly new, so i elected not to replace it.

- That crack on my evap line is superficial. that evap line is a hard plastic on the inside but wrapped with a rubber coating on the outside. The crack is only on the sleeve but does not extend into the plastic. The line has been smoke tested and does not appear to be leaking.

- I did get new hoses for the DPFE sensor, so im set there.

- I elected to get the metal thermostat as my old one had crumbled and sealing up the old housing was difficult. I do feel as though i will have some issues with radiant heat as the plastic would be a bit more insulative. Time will tell if it was a good call.



First time firing results (and tips):

After firing the engine for the first time, I found that I had cracked the flexplate when installing the engine. The transmission will have to be removed to replace it. To prevent from cracking the flexplate and to make engine installation easier. I recommend removing the engine mount brackets from the engine before installing the engine into the vehicle with the transmission still in place. this will make it easier to line up and get all the bolts in from up top of the engine. After getting the transmission installed, all you have to do is line up the brackets on the engine and bolt them into place.

Other than that, no knocks or horrific metal noises from the engine (other than the flexplate). No excessive blowby or fuel leaks, and the oil stays in the engine. so it was a success!
 






After firing the engine for the first time, I found that I had cracked the flexplate when installing the engine. The transmission will have to be removed to replace it. To prevent from cracking the flexplate and to make engine installation easier. I recommend removing the engine mount brackets from the engine before installing the engine into the vehicle with the transmission still in place. this will make it easier to line up and get all the bolts in from up top of the engine. After getting the transmission installed, all you have to do is line up the brackets on the engine and bolt them into place.


Yes

I have said this a gaziilion times on this forum if you are stabbing an engine to the trans then this is the way it is done otherwise you will be in for a battle and may lose or break things
 












It appears that I had a collapsed lifter. It failed almost immediately after startup. I have since replaced it and the engine runs quiet again.

I am still on the lookout for the crank case vent as it seems that after driving the sploder after an hour or so leaves the engine bay pretty warm, and the coolant temperature slightly above operating temp (190 - 200F) with a 185 thermostat ( though that could be due to the aluminum thermostat housing.)

If anyone has the information on the size of the freeze plugs in the valley it would also be appreciated.
 






Freeze plugs, i don't know the size but maybe you are good with a set?

Crank case vent (not the pcv vent) is very hard to find
What is your solution with the broken part and the crankcase ventilation now?

The aluminium thermostat housing didn't cause higher coolant temperature,
maybe the fan clutch didn't work perfect.

How did you diagnose a bad hydraulic lash adjuster?
 






Freeze plugs, i don't know the size but maybe you are good with a set?

Crank case vent (not the pcv vent) is very hard to find
What is your solution with the broken part and the crankcase ventilation now?

The aluminium thermostat housing didn't cause higher coolant temperature,
maybe the fan clutch didn't work perfect.

How did you diagnose a bad hydraulic lash adjuster?
Freeze plugs, i don't know the size but maybe you are good with a set?

Crank case vent (not the pcv vent) is very hard to find
What is your solution with the broken part and the crankcase ventilation now?

The aluminium thermostat housing didn't cause higher coolant temperature,
maybe the fan clutch didn't work perfect.

How did you diagnose a bad hydraulic lash adjuster?

Sorry for the extremely late reply, ill answer your questions first and then summarize the terribly annoying events that have transpired over the past few months. I have only gone 500 miles since it was rebuilt.

1. The hole was plugged by the machine shop by my request and is currently still installed.

2. I have ordered the vent from amazon when it came back in stock somewhere july august ish. Im still waiting on the part to ship and may try to get the part 3d scanned and replicated if all else fails.

3. Higher temperatures were caused by a loose headgasket seal on the driver side bank (more on that later, and still in progress :( )

4. Found it was the lash adjuster by double checking the flywheel with a buddy one weekend and finding nothing out of place or damaged. Then running a mechanics stethoscope around the engine while it was running and heard it in the engine loudest on the passenger head near the exhaust. Popped the valve cover off and checked the followers and found one to be so loose it basicallly fell off the lifter when i wiggled it. Popped the new one in and popped the follower in with the wooden handle of a hammer 🔨 (high tech install i know.)
Heres a pic of that:

5. Currently just running a filtered vent out the passenger valve cover thats supposed to be attached to the intake, and running a plastic filler plug i picked up from a engine core at work.

Now for why i needed to replace the headgasket: when i got the block machined, i did not have the timing tools for this truck and they were very expensive, so one of the guys at the shop let me knew he built 3 of these engines and has used them in his mustang all the time and offered to put the heads and time the engine for me before delivery. Fantastic I thought and the pictures shared here was me installing all the accessories and installing it into the sploder. Fast foward a few weeks and i developed a nasty oil leak from seemingly no where, all from the back of the engine, trans and steaming off the cats. So i double checked my rear seals and found the culprit to be the timing chain oil feed plug on the driver head. Tiny little thing had backed out as it was not thread locked. After reinstalling that i drove for a bit lobger and about 100 miles later it slowly onset into steaming oil under the hood and have excessive oil vapor from the crank vent with a nasty misfire and timing chain rattle. Come to find out i was leaking oil between the head and the block. It left a crispy brown stain on the exhaust manifold. Ive pulled the head and inspected the gasket to find that the gasket never got fully crushed. I believe the head was loose. (Luckily the timing chain never jumped, the guides are intact, the machined deck is flat, head is flat and the valves undamaged. With no piston witness marks.) The oil came from the main oil feed to the driver head. Ive put the project on hold since ive had a few jobs pop up including replacing a cobalt engine and almost rebuilding a trail blazer. Id like to get back on it again since during this job i found my composite fuel rails starting to leak. I have swapped to the metal ones and am interested to see how theyll perform.

Tldr dont let some one assemble your engine or youll have to pull the heads again.

Thanks for the support and ill share what i find for solutions

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You can use an upper one-piece radiator hose, DAYCO 72051 Curved Upper; One Piece Hose, 2001-2002+ and eliminate 2 clamps and a metal short hose joiner. I did this on one of my '97s. It saves about 15 minutes of FAT (acronym).
 






Hello all of those interested,

The rebuild is finally complete. The sploder runs fine. No more strange noises. No more leaks.

After a short test drive today i can confirm that the head gasket repairs were a success and you CAN do both heads with the engine in.

What i have learned is NEVER pay someone something you can do yourself. If you want it done right do it yourself.

Here are some pictures:
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I hope to enjoy my exploder after this. If yall have any questions about doing this let me know.

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Ahhh. You removed the evaporator box to get to the right-side head, etc. I have a 1997 4.0 SOHC that I'm still driving that has left front chain noise. I will sell the Explorer for a reasonable price. Houston is a bit far from me though. I'm in north Alabama.
 






Ahhh. You removed the evaporator box to get to the right-side head, etc. I have a 1997 4.0 SOHC that I'm still driving that has left front chain noise. I will sell the Explorer for a reasonable price. Houston is a bit far from me though. I'm in north Alabama.
yessir, after I figured out how to correctly remove the evaporator box, it made it much easier to get into that area without having to fight the accumulator and the entire box. but oh boy I wish I had one of those topside creepers, would have made the job so much easier.

As for your 97, This explorer took me two years (and lots of shenanigans) to get road worthy again, Im not too sure id want to tackle another one so soon lol, so I will have to pass.
 






After about 800 miles, I have gotten a too rich code bank 1 and two. I found my airbox coated in oil. For anyone stumbling on this you CANNOT just run a breather on your engine, you will have to use a catch can or you will run into similar issues.

Crank case vent F77Z-6A785-AB is now discontinued and not available ANYWHERE.
Using rearcounter.com I found there was ONE place here in the USA, and they sold their last one a few weeks ago.
you will not be able to find this part, except junkyards or ebay. But you can always swap to the plastic valve covers.

For those that are stubborn and like the aluminum valve cover:
I'm currently working on a solution to the missing crankcase vent, I have someone trying to 3d model it. I most likely will pull another one from the junkyard and see about paying a fabricator to replicate it. if I am successful, I will share with you the files to print it so you can replicate it at home. I'd make it myself if the software I was trained to use wasn't as much as another explorer.

On another front, I am trying to find a Freeze plug solution that will take the place of where the crankcase vent inserts into. Currently I have located a part close to this size. The Crankcase freeze plug hole is 2" 3/32" or approx. 58mm. I have found a vender here that sells the adapter but they are out of stock and have not responded to email. It is just about the correct size, but its meant for an industrial ford diesel. I have attached the data sheet on this post for anyone trying to replicate it. The idea, is to just run a freeze plug, to a npt barb fitting, and run that to a catch can, before running the vent to the pcv valve and intake. Non Vented catch can of course.
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Data Sheet 1736966064682.png

If anyone stumbles into other solutions let me know
 

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