X Suspension Lift Question | Ford Explorer Forums

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X Suspension Lift Question

van_redbone

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 AWD
I am new to the forum, so I am just getting used to the layout...I couldn't find anyone who had recently posted about this, so dont bash me if I am not the first. I have a question as to suspension lifts. I want to raise my 97 Explorer about 6 or 7 inches. I saw that SuperLift has a 4 inch lift, but that was the biggest I could find for that year and engine (5.0). Anyone have any suggestion as to a good lift, or alternative solutions??? Thanks.
 



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lose he AWD and solid axle swap it with a 4wd tcase

7" of lift is way more than you need, unless you are trying to fit over a 35" tire, and way more lift than an IFS AWD system can handle
 






lose he AWD and solid axle swap it with a 4wd tcase

7" of lift is way more than you need, unless you are trying to fit over a 35" tire, and way more lift than an IFS AWD system can handle

what is the most that a AWD system can handle?? I didnt realize that there would be that much of a difference between AWD and 4wd with the lifts...is there? Also, I want tires around 33-35", so will a 4" lift and new leaf springs do the job?
 






umm...yeah you can lift it that high. Use the RCD lift kit made for the ranger it is a 5.5" or a 6" lift then go spring over axle in the rear. Volia 6" of lift. No it is not to much for the awd system to handle. I recommend you swap in the 4406 T-case for true 4-wheel drive...but you wouldn't have to.
 






ok, running hte AW#D system with 35s, is a bad idea, it will eat parts, as the drivetrain is always running....
 






so, is it possible to use the 1997 ranger lifts on a 1997 explorer without having to make any modifications to the explorer?
 






ok, running hte AW#D system with 35s, is a bad idea, it will eat parts, as the drivetrain is always running....

so what do you recommend?? swap to the 4406 transfer case like the previous guy mentioned?
 






what are you using the truck for?
Edit: and how big of a tire do you want to run?
 






what are you using the truck for?
Edit: and how big of a tire do you want to run?

I drive it daily, but I plan to take it off roading every once and awhile once I get the setup. I would like to run a 33" tire.
 






You can run a 4" superlift and 33's no problem. I don't recommend running the AWD, you run into issues with the front driveshaft, and you have no low range. The BW4406 is a much better case to use, especially if you intend to lift. I am not sure what year Rangers changed from TTB to IFS, so make sure you get an IFS lift. If I had the money, I'd skip everything else and go RCD.
 






I drive it daily, but I plan to take it off roading every once and awhile once I get the setup. I would like to run a 33" tire.

If you use it as a daily driver, you don't really want to modify it all that much, that is unless you don't care about the price of gas. My 97 used to get around 22MPG. After the 4" suspension lift, 2" body lift, Atlas II transfer case, and all the other stuff I put on it, I'm luck to get 16mpg. I stopped using it as a daily driver along time ago, because I commute 144 miles (round trip ) a day.

There are plenty of guys that have body lifts and torsion bar twists, with 33's.
You don't really need a suspension lift, if you are just doing moderate off-roading.


1. Put a real transfer case in your truck. You need 4Lo to wheel.
2. Buy a rear locker. That will give you more off-roading capabilities than bigger tires and a lift.
3. Get a front locker and do the brown wire mod (do a search on brown wire mod). This will give you true 4WD, provided you get the rear locker too.
4. If you still want bigger tires, do a body lift and torsion bar twist with Warrior shackles. You'll be able to run 33's and might be able to run 35's (look at Gerald Jarrett's truck). Remember chances are that if you change tire size, you'll also have to change gears. If you don't already have 4.10:1 gear ratio, I wouldn't go any bigger than 31's.
Just my $.02
I hope this helps. :)
 






If you use it as a daily driver, you don't really want to modify it all that much, that is unless you don't care about the price of gas. My 97 used to get around 22MPG. After the 4" suspension lift, 2" body lift, Atlas II transfer case, and all the other stuff I put on it, I'm luck to get 16mpg. I stopped using it as a daily driver along time ago, because I commute 144 miles (round trip ) a day.

There are plenty of guys that have body lifts and torsion bar twists, with 33's.
You don't really need a suspension lift, if you are just doing moderate off-roading.


1. Put a real transfer case in your truck. You need 4Lo to wheel.
2. Buy a rear locker. That will give you more off-roading capabilities than bigger tires and a lift.
3. Get a front locker and do the brown wire mod (do a search on brown wire mod). This will give you true 4WD, provided you get the rear locker too.
4. If you still want bigger tires, do a body lift and torsion bar twist with Warrior shackles. You'll be able to run 33's and might be able to run 35's (look at Gerald Jarrett's truck). Remember chances are that if you change tire size, you'll also have to change gears. If you don't already have 4.10:1 gear ratio, I wouldn't go any bigger than 31's.
Just my $.02
I hope this helps. :)

Ray is wise. You won't have to worry about the brown wire mod if you use a manual shift 4406.

You can TT and get shackles, run 32's(won't need gears that way- AWD's all have 3.73's), locked front and rear, with a selectable transfer case, do amazing things.
 






Well does anyone have any idea as to how much it cost to do change to a manual transfer case? I know it can depend upon how much I can get parts for from a junk yard, but a ball park figure would be idea right now? Also, I went the other day to have dual rear exit flow masters installed, but the shop owner told me that he couldnt fabricate anything because of the large gas tank. Does anyone with a 5.0 have rear exit duals, or should I go with side exit duals (behind rear right tire where stock exhaust exist).
 












The manual case swap cost me $550, others more, some have done it for less. You can sell your AWD case and front driveshaft to recuperate some of the cost. I got $180 for my case, $50 for the driveshaft, so my swap didn't cost all that much in reality.
 






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