Yellowford's 93 budget rig

[yellowford]

Your list is doable for making the Halloween meet. Shock remount looks like the hardest thing to do. Are you going to place them where the sway bar tabs are on the axle?

Thats what I was considering, it doesn't seem that hard just get some flat stock make 2 bends in it and drill 3 holes, unless there is something there I'm forgetting. Looks like funding is going to be the hardest thing about all of this, sucks only working less than 20 hours a week.

Meet my Home Security System

http://www.*****aboutobama.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/chuck-norris1.jpg

I'll just bring my body guards.

 

[Turdle]

Cut the shock mounts out of square tubing

2x2 3/16 should work fine

 

[yellowford]

Cut the shock mounts out of square tubing

2x2 3/16 should work fine

That sounds way easier and cheaper than buying longer shocks, thanks for the tip. It does seem kind of weird that the back of this isn't lifted but it will max out the stock shocks just from jacking up one side.

 

[Turdle]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268164&highlight=soa+shock+mount

does this help at all?

 

[yellowford]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268164&highlight=soa+shock+mount

does this help at all?

I might just have to use that set up, think I looked at that before and just forgot about it completely.

 

[yellowford]

Went and got the 33's all mounted up today as well as trimmed the front fenders for a little more clearance as they were rubbing at the back of them. The rears fit without a problem and was able to max out my jack trying to get them to rub. The front tires are the old BFG MT pattern and also have a spare in the samer, the rears are Super Swamper truxus MT's. Picked all of the tires up for $100, also starting to wonder if the door sticker is actually wrong about the gearing as it still drives fine.



Rear hitch finished and license plate mounted

looks so big/little at the same time

fender trimming

front bumper with hooks finished up

 

[yellowford]

Just when SMORR fall run was in my grasp it goes away, the starter is now frozen and only works when being hit with a hammer, the tcase doesnt shift and my front end is completley worn to wear it shakes like crazy.

 

[Turdle]

Hmmm, just happen to have a starter laying in the garage.

 

[gmanpaint]

I just happen to have a t-case laying around as well (my spare)

Get down here and pick it up, we can work out the details later.

Also, your tires might be bad. A broken belt is all it takes. Have them re-balanced, see if thats the prob. If so, I have a couple 33" spares with 30-40% tread.

 

[yellowford]

Hmmm, just happen to have a starter laying in the garage.

You may have just came to the rescue.

I just happen to have a t-case laying around as well (my spare)

Get down here and pick it up, we can work out the details later.

Also, your tires might be bad. A broken belt is all it takes. Have them re-balanced, see if thats the prob. If so, I have a couple 33" spares with 30-40% tread.

I'm thinking the actual tcase is still good and it is just the shift motor which if thats the case a simple manual lever will be in order till I can find a real manual tcase.

Part of it may be the tires, especially since the rears aren't even balanced right now since I ran out of bb's. It shook before the tires just not as bad and considering the steering wheel is half way to the right to go straight that be part of it as well. Also there is a lot of play it seems in the wheel bearings since I can move the tires around alot and not get movement in the tie rods so those may be pulled out and checked and just repacked if they end up being fine and go from there.

 

[gmanpaint]

A gator grip socket works great on the actuator lever coming out of the t-case. Just use a 6" extension and ratchet with it, and swap back and forth from H to L until you either get a new motor or go manual.

Check the spindle nuts and the washers, making sure they are seated right. If they have any gap or slop, it will act like your describing.

Might need more BB's in them tires. I run 12 oz in each 33" tire. 8 oz was not enough.

 

[yellowford]

A gator grip socket works great on the actuator lever coming out of the t-case. Just use a 6" extension and ratchet with it, and swap back and forth from H to L until you either get a new motor or go manual.

Check the spindle nuts and the washers, making sure they are seated right. If they have any gap or slop, it will act like your describing.

Might need more BB's in them tires. I run 12 oz in each 33" tire. 8 oz was not enough.

Thats a good idea for the tcase will have to try that as a back up plan.

I'll check everything first, its a learning curve since this is the first truck I've had where it doesn't have unit bearings.

12oz would probably help since the fronts only have 8oz in them right now.

 

[yellowford]

The big white truck visited my house while I was at school, lucky for me he left a new starter and it works perfectly.

Went and added more bb's to the tires the other day, it seemed to help quite a bit. Think the culprit for the shaking is a worn lower ball joint on the passenger side, this will have to wait till after I get paid to order a new one.

Also figured out something for the tcase, after dissasembling the electric motor the gear with the triangle on it can be stuck on the shaft and turned by hand thus allowing me to use the tcase for now by crawling under to go into 4.

Still waiting on the guy to ship the coils I bought from him, if he doesn't send by the end of the week a report will be filed with paypal. Since it doesn't look like the front of my Explorer will be lifted at all for SMORR the sway bar will probably have to stay attatched.

 

[gmanpaint]

Since it doesn't look like the front of my Explorer will be lifted at all for SMORR the sway bar will probably have to stay attatched.

Congrats on getting the starter installed.

Why do you need to leave the sway bar attached because of no lift? You will get better articulation without it. My 94 does way better on the trails disconnected (both front & rear).

 

[yellowford]

Congrats on getting the starter installed.

Why do you need to leave the sway bar attached because of no lift? You will get better articulation without it. My 94 does way better on the trails disconnected (both front & rear).

Guessing that the 33's and no lift is going to lead to some serious rubbing up front, but will probably try it anyways since I have one side of discos already installed.

 

[gmanpaint]

Keep cutting till the rub is gone

 

[yellowford]

I cut about 2" off the front fenders so far, ran out of stuff to cut unless I go into the metal inner fender, will have to look and see what all is behind it.

Plus the guy that I was buying the coils from is suppose to be shipping them out today, so who knows if those will go on before SMORR or not, depends when they get here and if I can figure out how to align a ttb.

 

[cybergasm]

You beat the Pinch welds down yet?

 

[yellowford]

Finally recieved the leveling coils and got them installed, along with a new lower ball joint on the passenger side. Its looking like the rotor/inner bearing on the passenger side will need to be replaced.

Side note, after correcting for the difference of my odometer it looks like I'm getting 16mpg out of this thing, not too shabby for stock gears and 33's.

Going to go take this on its mayden voyage tommorrow to Tuttle, we'll see how prepared it is for smorr since its a 2 hour drive there.

 

[gmanpaint]

Rig looks great!

Nice work!