You guys with Superlift knowledge come on in

[Turdle]

I think that's just a stock picture. If you look that part number up elsewhere it comes up with a different picture.


For example:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...yNqxmAiuS2eP_tYuCT4eW341tstUx2QxBsBoC5D_w_wcB

yes, but it also says for ford suv and pickups, which would be 6 cylinders. They never made a v8 ranger. You need the awd v8 drive shaft. Not trying to pull your leg at all.

Like I suggested earlier, call them on the phone. They have real talking people there, I promise. Don't be scared-

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Also yes it does have a shackle lift out back as well.

Here's the truck, currently my DD but it makes me nervous that I'll mess up the t-case running it in 2wd on top of the fact that it can roll down a hill.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=424743

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Does anyone know the driveshaft length needed? Superlift says they don't know if anything will work or not and need the driveshaft measurement center to center. They did say that shaft is a 6 bolt flange though.

 

[Turdle]

tape measure from transfer case flange to u joint dish in front yoke. I would measure mine but I have a 4406 and the length will be off. For mine it was 35 1/2 "

96-97 uses a different length shaft then 98-2001

Do you have a bad stock shaft to measure?

 

[1997XLTRollover]

tape measure from transfer case flange to u joint dish in front yoke. I would measure mine but I have a 4406 and the length will be off. For mine it was 35 1/2 "

96-97 uses a different length shaft then 98-2001

Do you have a bad stock shaft to measure?

I measured 29 inches or so just now. Also yes I do have a stock driveshaft, just not with me.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Has not one person with a V8 kept the AWD system? haha I find that hard to believe. There has to be someone who figured out if the superlift shaft works or if we had to make a custom shaft.

 

[Turdle]

Yup, in my son's 98 mounty, for a minute until the shaft ate itself up. He ran 2wd , with the AWD transfer case and a brick for parking.

Then we took the lift off before he gave the mounty to his younger brother. For other reasons though, it was a trailmaster lift, which was a slightly different design and real crappy. Hence my earlier advice. I am not familiar with anyone keeping the AWD very long after lifting their trucks via drop brackets.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Unfortunately I don't have that kind of time to swap a t-case or pull the lift off on a truck I'm selling, so that's just not an option.

It's funny, my 96 is giving me all sorts of problems so I decided to sell my 99 because it was worth more, and now even this is causing me grief even though this is the better of the two trucks.

Might just do what you said, sell the truck as a 2wd and take the hit. Superlift hasn't gotten back to me. Guy was supposed to get back to me to tell me if the driveshaft will work or not.

 

[corkey]

well, i can tell you than, if it has a cv on the t case end, the Superlift shaft will NOT fit,, it is a u joint double cardan unit, and looks the same as the front shaft on a 1991 Ranger,,

my 96 with the v6 also came with the double cardan front shaft, when i went to put the lift on at Turdles place i think i left the extra one i brought behind,, as i didn't need it,,

put up a picture of your front output and transfer case as it is now, we'll figure it out if you can't,,

 

[boominXplorer]

The only Superlift explorer shaft I have seen replaces the 6 bolt c/v style flange. It has a thin round flange that uses a standard double cardon ujoint setup.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

It's that stupid ball and socket design.

 

[Turdle]

Hmmm, just a thought.

Just maybe a new transmission mount might help a little. It "may" raise the rear of the transmission a bit, if the old one is worn. This would change that angle by at least a degree or 2. They are relatively inexpensive, less than 20.00.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Hmmm, just a thought.

Just maybe a new transmission mount might help a little. It "may" raise the rear of the transmission a bit, if the old one is worn. This would change that angle by at least a degree or 2. They are relatively inexpensive, less than 20.00.

I could also probably space it up with washers to see if that helps before buying a new mount. Are you saying try that and see if the clicking goes away and use the stock shaft? Do you think that will throw of the rear shaft off too much at that point?

 

[Turdle]

I could also probably space it up with washers to see if that helps before buying a new mount. Are you saying try that and see if the clicking goes away and use the stock shaft? Do you think that will throw of the rear shaft off too much at that point?

By the time you get it to where you can slide a washer in you'll wish you threw in a new one. You have to remove the trans crossmember in order to get a washer over those studs. Jacking the trans high enough to clear those holes may cause other damage.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

By the time you get it to where you can slide a washer in you'll wish you threw in a new one. You have to remove the trans crossmember in order to get a washer over those studs. Jacking the trans high enough to clear those holes may cause other damage.

How about a U shaped washer, just slid in in and tighten it up.

 

[Turdle]

I'm out.

You have been given a lot of suggestions, but I am not going to help you "rig" this for sale.

Good luck!

 

[1997XLTRollover]

I'm out.

You have been given a lot of suggestions, but I am not going to help you "rig" this for sale.

Good luck!

This isn't rigging. It's spacing it to make it work. Also who said I was going to sell it like this and not tell the new owner? I actually take offense to you even saying that. This truck is very well put together and not rigged by any means. a TT is rigged, a superlift is by no means a rigged up truck.

There's nothing wrong with a u shaped washer especially when it's sandwiched tight. It's not like if it fell out, which it wont, the truck is going to fly off the road. It's the same thing as having a new trans mount (just lifting the trans higher). If you consider that rigging then the way superlift lifts the truck is rigging haha. That's all it does is space the body up off the diff with some spindles and massive leaf springs to raise the rear.

 

[Turdle]

Suggestion: get correct drive shaft answer "not spending the time or money to sell it"

Suggestion, remove lift, return truck to stock for sale with stock drive shaft
( with offer of knuckles included)
answer "too much work"

Suggestion, swap t case and install good front drive shaft

answer "too much work"

Suggestion , replace trans mount

answer "use spacers instead"

You seem to have a handle on all of it. Good luck.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Suggestion: get correct drive shaft answer "not spending the time or money to sell it"

Actually no, noone offers a driveshaft that will work....

Suggestion, remove lift, return truck to stock for sale with stock drive shaft
( with offer of knuckles included)
answer "too much work"

Actually no, I don't have the parts and that makes no sense. Do ton's of work to lower the value of the truck on top of buy stock suspension parts. Brilliant.

Suggestion, swap t case and install good front drive shaft

answer "too much work"

Again, spend money and do a retarded amount of work on a truck I'm selling. Again. Brilliant.

Suggestion , replace trans mount

answer "use spacers instead"

Why would I replace a perfectly good trans mount when I can just use a washer to accomplish the same thing?

You seem to have a handle on all of it. Good luck.

 

[Turdle]

Ok, since I do not like the feeling of disagreement, when I may be partially to blame, I will inject my opinion again, just for clarity.

A lifted truck with driveline issues would not sell well IMO

However, removing the lift, and selling it separately, will leave you a pocket of money for the little things you might need to replace. Remember, you are removing bolt on components. My offer for the free knuckles ( you pay shipping) stands.

Other than that all you really need to sell the truck is possibly a set of swaybar endlinks, stock shackles and a cheap set of shocks. 125 bux at most. You should be able to get 500.00 for the lift kit easily. Now you are left with an easier to sell, nice riding stock height explorer with AWD. Counting the "suspension swap" profit, this just seems the best option to me. Maybe you could trade the lift kit for partial labor help?

We all want the easy way, and I do not blame you for this. In this case I just don't see an "easy way" for you to maximize your payback.