Solved - Your Stock Auto/Manual hub info - Ranger / 91-94 X | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Solved Your Stock Auto/Manual hub info - Ranger / 91-94 X

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
assuming you got the snap ring off and pulled the little guy out of the hub I noticed that the wavy spring under the toothed washer what do I do to get the rest of assembly out

I bought a hub from a salvage yard got it home wiped it down and replaced the one I had .....my 4x4 light flashed a second I engaged 4x4 ....!!! click pop I didn't even get out of my driveway before noticing a rubbing or swerving problem .... I took the hub back off and started to compare the little guys there was a difference in the size of the cam washer the salvage yard one had a bigger collar the original one has exposed teeth about halfway down its collar the stand about the same height though .... I ended up using the salvaged external case part of the hub and main removable bearing assembly guy with the original cam washer from my truck ....... what bugs me is how my case part and assembly of my hub was worn streaked and the notched washer that retains the wavy spring isn't doing its job as parts of the wavey spring have escaped forward of notched washer or broken that must of been the grinding noises I heard at my last attempt to put the original back in before attempting surgery on the two do dadoda ..........made a cheap pair of needle nose nto a snap ring tool ....dodadoda expose the two assemblies compare ...dodadoda clean the using parts from the cannibalization reinstall so here I go seems to test ok but now the drivers side is making noise :( I took it off originally to see if I had the same parts on both


to get it right I saw one article about A NEW improved Version of this hub that in all likeliness has the matching female receiver for the beefed up collar on the cam assembly other than that I cant see any differences in the entire assembly without looking for an 16th of a incher diff inside the hub case assembly that I don't know how comes apart

don't do what is here and put the revised edition parts without checking im unshure if I got it right wish I had another hub to experiment with or matching cams and receiver pads


does anybody know if the outer hub parts are different during this revision
 



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I ask there too:

I have now manual hubs on table, original auto hubs in car.

Can i just replace auto hub to manual and but tyre back?

And now i mean that: dont have spindle nut tool etc and i dont get it soon. I need just 4x4 and wanna try if its okay and wont brake anything.
 






No, Karpov, it won't work, sorry.
 






No.. Auto and Manual hubs have different spindle nuts. The Manual hubs will not fit over the Auto Spindle nut.

BTW: If you edit your profile to include your city you may find some local members able to help you out.

I ask there too:

I have now manual hubs on table, original auto hubs in car.

Can i just replace auto hub to manual and but tyre back?

And now i mean that: dont have spindle nut tool etc and i dont get it soon. I need just 4x4 and wanna try if its okay and wont brake anything.
 






Okay :D

I bet there is no one even same country, Finland :D
 












Yea... not many messages :eek:

Explorers are pretty rare in Finland and people who drive them are usually "normal" people.

Example if you drive old bronco or f150 you are 95% sure american car fanatic/hobbier and you know something about them.


But this forum is big help!
 






Just an update. The dana spicer kit through 4wheelparts is now $14.99 per side. Still not bad considering the cost for the same thing through warn. My kit will be at the Stockton (California) 4WP tomorrow morning
 






...Thanks for the great update..:biggthump
 






In my quest to restock the spare couple parts I carry I needed to find the part numbers Tbars linked above! Just bumping this as a thanks for that info!
 






Do the manual hubs need to have the retaining nut keyways in the spindle groove?

Been years since I did this, and can't remember why I left them out after the manual hub swap. :scratch:

Edit:
Thanks to Tbars jogging my memory, I do not need them keyways for the manual hubs. I left them out for a reason :)
 






I want to make hubs that don't stick out through the center cap (I've gone from 4x4 to RWD)

Is there a way to put a nut on the axle and gut an auto hub, cut and shorten it (weld/jbweld/etc) so that it acts strictly as a dust cap?

Right now I have manual hubs, I'm guessing I could trade someone for their non working auto hubs....
 






I'm trying to put automatic hubs on a truck that came with manual hubs from the factory, but there's nowhere to put the retaining ring. It seems like the axle shafts are different. Is it possible to drive in 2wd with just the bearing nut on until I get a manual conversion kit?
 






Do you have any pictures of your axle shaft and retaining hardware? The axle shaft should be a Dana 35 and work with auto or manual hubs. But if you're switching to auto hubs you must use the auto hub retaining hardware as shown. the manual hardware will not fit inside the auto hubs.

Automatic HUB retaining hardware
0900c1528018f0bcha1.gif
 






Dumb question

I just bought a 92 Explorer with manual Warn hubs.

This locks the front hubs into 4wd, but this does not lock the differential. Correct? In other words, I have 4wd with all 4 wheels down, but the diff is open and if a wheel gets in the air, it is going to spin and the down wheel will do nothing.

Please correct me if I am wrong. This is my first Explorer.
 






I think you have it right....

The hubs lock the wheels to the front axles...

Putting the truck in 4x4 locks the front and rear drive shafts together..

Neither of those ties the left and right tire together.. That would be some kind of traction device like a Locker or a Limited Slip.

So, if you were to get 1 front tire and 1 rear tire in the air without any kind of locker in the differentials you would stop moving.

~Mark
 






anyone here ever pull the front diff "dana 35 ttb" out of a 90s ranger?
 






Do you have any pictures of your axle shaft and retaining hardware? The axle shaft should be a Dana 35 and work with auto or manual hubs. But if you're switching to auto hubs you must use the auto hub retaining hardware as shown. the manual hardware will not fit inside the auto hubs.

Automatic HUB retaining hardware
0900c1528018f0bcha1.gif
Which part is it that fails in auto hubs? Can you buy just that part?
 






The Cam breaks. Haven't looked in years, but I do remember seeing some person selling them on E-Bay. I don't believe you can get it alone from a dealer. Not even sure you can buy them whole from the dealer anymore either.

If no luck, you can swap in the manual hubs, those are still made and available from Warn.
 



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Yeah, I just like not having to get out to engage 4wd, normally not doing much hard off roading, just lots of snow and sometimes mud.
 






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