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98 V8 AWD with bad engine gets junk yard 99 V8 engine

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Old 03-04-2009, 01:14 PM   #1
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98 V8 AWD with bad engine gets junk yard 99 V8 engine

This truck will be FOR SALE when I am finished, if you are in the denver area and are interested let me know!!

This is a 98 XLT V8 AWD with 96K miles, maroon
I found the truck on craigslist about 6 months ago, the kid drove it with no oil until the engine seized
I was able to get it started and running, bad knock in the engine

truck has 96K miles, a few paint scratches, a bent up front bumper, loose tailgate glass and no radio display. Other then that this is one CLEAN CLEAN 98:
I bargained with the guy and got a good deal on this truck, more then I wanted to spend, but I couldnt come home without it.
I tightened the trucks drain plug (finger tight), added two quarts of oil, got it started with my jumper box and drove it 30 miles to home! It drove GREAT, so smooth! not like my noisy lifted 96 LOL
engine knock got progressively worse on the way home, but it did run well all 30 miles

I shut it down and parked it




I have finally got her in the garage over the last two weeks and started swapping engines

I found a 1999 Explorer 5.0L V8 in town with 93K miles for $350 missing pass side exhaust manifold, fan/clutch bent, oil filter fubar from accident, also bent drivers side engine mount plate and bolts! wow..... hard hit

So I wont bore you with the details of pulling the 99 engine, except for these facts:
you can remove the V8 without dropping the exhaust down pipes
You must remove the center console and carpet to access pass side and top bellhousing bolts, also the trans dipstick bolt

98 XLT missing an engine, engine bay masked off and cleaned with Gunk Foamy engine brite and a power wash:






Now with the 98 and 99 engines side by side I can see the changes (most of which I was already aware of)

the 98 uses a return style fuel rail, the 99 is returnless, so I put the 98 rail on the 99 engine
98 (yellow injectors):


99 (white injectors):


carefully CLEAN the lower intake around all 8 injectors (compressed air and wire brush)
remove the 4 fuel rail retaining screws
GENTLY pull all 4 injectors out on each side, keeping them seated in the fuel rail
CLEAN the injector O rings and lube them with ATF/vaseline

press the new injectors into the lower intake and install retaining bolts

Next I can see other differences:
the 98 still uses the lower radiator hose oil cooler / oil filter mount, the 99 does not

99 oil filter:


I chose to use the 99 style oil filter mount, so I had to purchase a 99 lower radiator hose

The oil pressure sensor and cam position sensor are also different on the 99 engine, you can see in the above picture the 99 oil pressure sensor has two pins, in 98 it is still one wire

99 also has a different stamped steel oil pan with oil level sensor, the 98 uses a cast pan with no sensor = LOL @ Ford

99 engine cam sensor = two wires, 98 = 3 wires


Here is the 99 engine with the new sensors and 98 fuel rail, all cleaned up and ready to go in:

(notice 1 wire oil press sensor)



Now the fun part, stabbing!
Form my experience here I know that if I drop the engine into the truck WITHOUT the side mount engine plates I can EASILY aling it to teh transmission bellhousing and torque converter

THEN you bolt the engine and trans together, making sure to align the flywheel/converter
Now finally after they are stabbed you can raise the engine back up and install the engine mount plates and drop the new 5.0L onto the engine mounts

That is as far as I got yesterday, I cannot bring myself to install a greasy engine LOL even when its not my truck! I spent ALOT of time yesterday prepping this sucker to go in, scrubbing grease and dirt and I painted the upper intake BRIGHT RED



Somebodyin the Denver area is going to get a wicked ass V8 explorer with low miles! I want to keep this truck, but I would have to sell my 96 and thats not gonna happen!

Some of the new parts:


oil & filter
New Autolite double plat plugs
New Purolatorair filter
new Dacron transmission filter and 12 quarts of Mercon V
new exhaust manifold gaskets
new upper intake gasket
new 195 thermo and gasket
new 99 lower radiator hose
new fuel filter
new coolant

Also getting a brand new chrome front bumper and a full detail before sale

Next: drain converter and drop trans pan, install new trans filter, engine exhaust manifolds (going to use the 99 style cast manifolds), new plugs, all wiring and plumbing in engine bay

ince the engine is in and running I will be fixing the radio display, the rear hatch glass hinge, detailing the truck including flat black for the body trim/pillars
Man I hate to sell this truck, 98 V8 with 96K miles? few scratches and no dents, completely gone through by yours truly!! = hard to part with these things




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96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's
88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread
My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates
Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

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Old 03-04-2009, 01:39 PM   #2
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and the Bronco II again gets pushed to the side and neglected.
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Old 03-04-2009, 01:43 PM   #3
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LOL yeah I gotta get this sucker out of the shop, then the FJ goes in for lockers and then the 96 comes in for paint

then FINALLY the 88 gets a body diet I am driving the 96 and the 88 though, every day

profit from this truck = my BII steel

profit LOL more like $5 an hour! I do it for the love of the hobby not for the $$$$$




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88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread
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Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

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Old 03-06-2009, 01:59 AM   #4
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It will make a nice daily driver for someone. Its a good thing they redesigned the filter mount...




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Old 03-06-2009, 11:50 AM   #5
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I actually prefer the 96 style filter mount, you get a free oil cooler!
Part of the reason I went with the 99 style for this 98 is because I am not going to keep it, less maintenence for the new owner and I get a backup assembly for my 96 or 88 trucks

Working on it more this evening




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Old 03-09-2009, 01:33 PM   #6
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Almost ready to fire it up

I had a fun issue with the new engine, I got it stabbed to the transmission and two of the converter bolts installed when........I couldnt turn the engine over more then 60 degrees...ut oh

spent about 3 hours tearing ligaments in my arms trying to get the engine to turn past this frozen point, to no avail

I then pulled the engine back out for testing

this is my new best friend:


this sucker allows me to get the top 4 bellhousing bolts and the stupid dipstick retainer bolt by myself from the top of the engine...... I had the engine out of the truck in seriously 20 minutes

I then put the engine on a stand and began to search for the issue, no interference with the flexplate/dust shield. I could watch all 8 pistons move up and down no issue. I called the junk yard I bought this 99 engine from and he knew exactly who I was and what engine I had. He suggested the engine ran perfect when they pulled it and that is sat for a while = rust ring stopping a piston. He was also checking his yard to find me another 5.0L. I put a 3' cheater pipe on the crankshaft pulley and moved the engine just to teh point where it was freezing up, I gave it one more yank and BLAMO it rotates!! I turned the engine over about 100 times by hand... smooth as butter!

So I began putting the engine back in the truck, thanks to the wrench above and a few little tricks I have picked up I had it stabbed and bolted to the trans in about an hour (working by myself here)

I began by installing the starter and trans scatter shield:


starter in:


VERY easy to get the starter in while the engine/trans is still sitting low on the hoist

Moving back to the top/ back of the engine I installed the trans dipstick tube and routed the engine wiring harness, through the fuel rail, along the valve covers, hooking up the injectors, coolant temp sensors, oil pressure sensor, and crank pos sensor:


Now I install the coolant hose manifold, this metal manifold provides the heater hoses for the heater core, and the hot water bypass for the upper intake, as well as another coolant temp sensor:


Now is the time to install this sucker! access is impossible later, dont forget the hold down nut you cant get to it later

under the front of the engine its time to bolt up the starter cables and engine ground wire, hung from metal hooks:


So now I am ready to raise the engine again and bolt up the engine plates, then drop her on the engine mounts.
I loosened the transmission mount bolts (2ea), and raised the engine about 6-8" using a jack and block of wood under the oil pan.
Then from under the truck and around the tires I can install the engine mount plates. They bolt to the block using 4 double suded studs, pointing up into the block.
Finally I lowered the engine and wiggled it (pry bar) until it dropped onto the mounts.
Here is how I access the engine mount bolts, so easy with no manifolds:


Now to install the camshaft position sensor, I brought cylinder #1 to TDC, installed my cam alignment tool and dropped it into the block:

Note the arrow points almost directly forward and you can see the dirt marks on the sensor body match up to the old hold down bolt location.

Now to install new plugs and the thermostat & housing:


thermostat installed, follow directions on the packet! LOL spring goes towards engine, pointy side towards radiator, no weep hole on 5.0L thermostats. Also proper ay to route hoses and clamps:
No silicoln or O ring here, just a gasket and two bolts, CLEAN both mounting surfaces!


(you can see the cam sensor bolted down and wired)

Now back to underneath the engine, on the passenger side there are two nuts that retain the trans cooler lines and starter wires, now is the time to get these suckers mounted:


time to install the 98 style exhaust manifolds:


I had to unbolt the steering shaft to gain clearance on the drivers side, but other then that the exhaust install went very smooth, 8 bolts per side, 9/16", new gaskets, dont forget the oil dipstick retainer on the d side!
Also bolted up the downpipes, this is tome consuming on the pass side = PITA

getting the upper intake ready to be bolted on, taking some time here to make sure its done right will save alot of headaches, IE mount everything to the intake now!
Intake elbow, throttle body, EGR valve, sensor, and vacuum switch installed on intake elbow:


engine/PCM wiring routed, mounted, plumbing and wiring ready for upper intake, time to take the blue tape off!




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96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's
88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread
My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates
Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

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Old 03-09-2009, 01:50 PM   #7
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Good work Jamie

Someone is going to get a nice truck out of this deal for sure.




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Old 03-09-2009, 02:21 PM   #8
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new upper intake gasket set in place, upper intake CAREFULLY placed on top of gasket, all hoses routed out of the way/in correct spot. DONT FORGET to install the long rear intake bolt now before placing intake on engine, otherwise firewall is in your way!



at the back of the intake you have to hook up the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, the wiring for the EGR vacuum switch and flow sensor, the PCV hoses at the front and rear of the intake and you can also see the hot water bypass water lines installed

pic of the back of intake area:


Starting to come together!!!

Mounted the coil pack tripod, careful routing of the hoses and wiring, the throttle cable bracket is also bolted to the coil pack tripod, intake stud, and throttle body:


dont forget the brake booster vacuum line! to back of upper intake, PITA to get the hose clamps in place if you forget to mount it to the intake (like I did) thank goodness for LONG needle nose pliers:


finally time to install the accessories and brackets:
drivers side bracket mounts with 3 large bolts, this bracket holds the power steering pump and ac compressor:


power steering lines run and plumbed, teflon tape on the high pressure hose fitting. Also you can see the vacuum and EVAP system lines mounted to the upper intake

drivers side bracket again 3 bolts, holds the tensioner and idler pullies as well as the alternator:


Alternator was mounted and wired, dont forget one mounting bolt has a stud for the AC hose.
AC hose is installed now, now we are making progress!!



my arms were about to fall off, after working Sat and Sunday on this project, so I called it a night
I will have it running tonight!

I also dropped the transmission pan and drained the converter, installed new trans filter and a new fuel filter went in





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96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's
88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread
My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates
Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

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Old 03-09-2009, 02:40 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by 410Fortune View Post
I actually prefer the 96 style filter mount, you get a free oil cooler!
Part of the reason I went with the 99 style for this 98 is because I am not going to keep it, less maintenence for the new owner and I get a backup assembly for my 96 or 88 trucks ...
I also like the cooler, hopefully these aren't prone to leaking like the first versions on older cars. FYI, my 98 has no cooler, the steel pan, and cast iron headers. The changes happened in 1998 I believe.

Did you leave the balancer on, is it never any trouble? I'd love to bolt on the balancer, and water pump if it doesn't make things harder. Good work there, great pictures and guidelines.




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Old 03-09-2009, 02:41 PM   #10
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CDW it is a TIGHT fit dropping a 5.0L into the engine bay of a Gen II, the wiring plugs on the firewall must be moved out of the way, with the balancer and waterpump mounted there is about 1/4" of clearance going past the radiator support. Once its dropped in a bit though there is a TON of room to move the engine around, so yes I keep the balancer and pump installed, as well as the flexplate and dustshield, you can even leave the mount plates and manifolds in place if you wish, but then you cant use my trick to get the trans stabbed. It is SO much easier to stab the trans when you can lower the engine all the way down and move it side to side = no engine plates! then as I just covered all these other parts, starter, etc are so much easier before finally putting the engine on the mounts...




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88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread
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Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted
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Old 03-10-2009, 12:07 PM   #11
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Dang I ALMOST got her running last night

After work I spent some time working on this sucker in hopes to fire it up and test for leaks/issues, etc

When it came to pouring in the 3rd gallon of pre mix coolant it started pouring out! LOL Looks like I didnt get the thermostat housing seated fully
So after cleaning up that mess I called it a night, after work tonight I fire it up!

progress:

First I mounted the ac compressor, and routed the serpentine belt

I CAREFULLY cleaned, lubed, and routed all 8 plug wires, very careful to avoid the exhaust manifolds, I dont exactly route the wires the same as Ford does, I think my path works better You learn real quick with TM headers!





Before dropping in the radiator, do yourself a favor and install your lower radiator hose on the engine, saves alot of headaches!

now its time for the radiator and AC condensor = simple simple
drop radiator and condensor in CAREFULLY, you can use cardboard on the back of the rad to protect it while dropping it onto its mounts
retain the rad with two 10mm bolts

install AC lines on both sides:


dont forget to snap the trans cooler lines into their retainer:


and thread the trans cooler lines into the radiator:


fan clutch installed onto waterpump, dropping in the shroud at the same time, then finally the upper radiator hose:


New air filter, cleaned the MAS, install airbox lid, MAS and intake tube:


install battery tray and new battery, new oil filter (filled with 3/4 quart of oil)....
I poureed a quart of crappy oil into the crankcase and let it sit for about 5 minutes, then drained one more time. re-install drain plug and fill with 4.25 quarts of Valvoline 5w 30 conventional.
I started to fill the coolant when LEAKS HAPPEN LOL

tonight its 14 quarts of ATF or so, power steering fluid, check tire pressure, check for leaks, a few heat cycles, re-torque exhaust, etc and a TEST DRIVE!!

Next is paint the black trim, new chrome bumper, fix a few odds and ends, full detail, then SALE SALE SALE!!!




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96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's
88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread
My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates
Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

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Old 03-10-2009, 12:18 PM   #12
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I hate it when the t-stat slips on ya like that. Happens all the time. Grr




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Old 03-10-2009, 12:53 PM   #13
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Ah you are familiar! LOL

stupid 5.0L design, still better then both 4.0L designs though! the SOHC plastic thermo housing has me scratching my head! I will use a dab of silicoln to hold it in place this time




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Old 03-10-2009, 08:58 PM   #14
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I like the SOHC thermostat only for the assurance that it will not leak(with new o-ring). I've had the smallblock thermostat drop while installing it a couple of times.

Give it a good wiggle and push backwards while placing the thermostat housing. Usually that gives you a good feel for whether it is seated properly or not. Do it dry to start with before a sealant.




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Old 03-16-2009, 12:07 PM   #15
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troubleshooting

no oil pressure

when I drove this 98 home the oil pressure gage was irratic, no big deal I thought Gen II;s do this, bad sensor

so with the new/used 99 engine I installed a new 98 style oil pressure sender, the one wire jobber

Well I fied up the truck and first big huge vacuum leak and exhaust leak
PCV hose at the front of the intake was not on all the way = easy fix
pass side exhaust needed adjustment and tightening (hardest bolt to access on entire truck)
so I fixed that

Fired up the truck, no oil pressure on stock gage until 2500 RPM
Not good enough for me, I need to know the new 99 engine has oil pressure
so off to get $20 mechanical gage

WHAT A PITA it is to install a gage on the side of the 5.0L block in a non body lifted Gen II 5.0L LOL, anyways 1.5 hours later its installed and I fire it up

NO OIL PRESSURE
shut down and it sits
I put the hood on it and rolled it into the driveway, had to get working on the FJ project.

I have one thing I can try and its a long shot, pull the CPS AGAIN (have had it out twice now) I am not sure it is engaging the oil pump drive

If I have to pull this engine back out again I am going to lose it

Yesterday was not a good wrench day LOL, 8 hours of wrenching cost me $20 in gear lube and $20 on a gage and I got nothing accomplished except the garage is cleaner!

Explorer was so frustrating I took a break and then I tore into the FJ project only to find (after draining the front diff) I dont have a 36mm socket.......I have up to 34 and up to 1-5/16, well I need 36mm to get the CVs out of the FJ to swap front diffs!!
Then I spilled 4 quarts of new gear lube on the floor

LOL should have stayed in bed!!


So what are the chances of a CPS bolding down into the block and not grabbing the oil pump drive shaft??? I will have to remove the coil packs and tripod so I can have a look

Idea's????


I am HOPING that this is not a case of "well you swap enough used engines eventually you get a bad one" I have this thought with every one I do, this is like # 14 or so, every single one is still running around perfectly........fingers crossed!

Thats alot of work for not, and my $10 an hour profit is already $2 whats next losing money on this sucker? LOL




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88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread
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Old 03-16-2009, 12:18 PM   #16
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Jamie
is there a chance the gear be spinning ( sheared pin) on the cps shaft?

can you get a drill powered oil pump primer and check pressure that way?




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Old 03-16-2009, 12:43 PM   #17
410Fortune
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CPS is perfect, I had three in front of me when I did the install, spin the gear the flag rotates.....
96, 98 and a 99
99 was pulled from this engine, cant use it (as you know) its 2 wire, small flag, different sensor

the 96 I pulled from a spare motor just in case I needed it, I didnt
the 98 looks great, spins easy, everything functions, I lubed it and dropped it in

Here is the CPS history with this engine:

shortly after putting the engine on its mounts I found TDC #1 cyl and installed 98 sensor using the alignment tool
Then before I started this engine up I second guessed myself, I never confirmed it was TDC on COMPRESSION stroke.
Instead of going inside and reading the forum on the proceedure again I rushed through it like a dumbass, end of the day, engine is in place, I got lazy..... when I dropped the CPS in the first time it lines up okay, but I used a rubber mallet to seat it fully into the block, it did not "gently drop in place" but I was confident it meshed with the cam and pump drive shaft, perhaps too confident

So I pulled the CPS again, without removing the coil packs, I couldnt bring myself to run the engine without knowing for sure
I found TDC again, this time holding my finger over the hole to determine its compression stroke, I had a brain fart last time
The marks on this 99 engine on the balancer are gone, so no looking at 0

Before I pulled the 98 sensor I put the alignment tool on there and it matched up = I had a 50 / 50 shot and apparently I had it correct = great
I pulled the 98 CPS anyway, figured I better have a look at it and see if I can get it to drop in gently this time

I re-installed CPS this time, blind, I cannot look directly into the hole, coil packs are in the way., it meshed just about exactly the same as last time, took a little force to get it down the last 1/4", but not too bad.. took me 3-4 tries to get the arrow on the align tool exactly where it should be, I bolted it down again, checked everything 100 times and fired up the truck = no oil pressure

the 99 sensor, ironically has a bunch of black plastic shavings in the sensor housing = LOL
the 96 and 98 sensors I have look brand new inside = cant they just leave a good design alone????

also the oil pressure sensor on my 96 works perfect, this 98 has all sorts of little issues

So what are the chances I mashed the oil pump drive out of place when I semi forced the CPS in the first time?
I HOPE it is that SIMPLE

the friggin 3rd brake light is FLICKERING at night???????/ WTF is up with that? My neighbor called me last night to let me know, he was worried about the battery draining... LOL sure enough the truck is locked, all doors closed, etc 3rd brake light is barely lit but flickering I did notice its loose in the mount! have to tackle that AFTER I get oil pressure

trying to take a used engine back to the junk yard after 2-3 months and I stripped it down to nothing = they better not give me any crap if I have to do all this work AGAIN I will lose it on the dude!! LOL Caution New dad with bad engine!!


FYI when I did run the engine for 30 seconds, it purrs like a kitten, just with no oil pressure = HELP!!!!!!!!!

Great idea Jon, I assume there is a drill shaft thingy I can buy that engages the 5.0L drive????/ Heck I might have something that will work already!
pulling CPS this week, just want to hear ideas experiences with this, ALL IDEAS WELCOME this truck was to be sold already, like 6 months ago! LOL

Its hard to get $$$ and time from the wife for truck projects when they go like this, so lets get this fixed! LOL I am trying to impress the girl so she will let me V8 the sport trac, see look how easy !!! LOL not this time....




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Old 03-16-2009, 04:09 PM   #18
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anyone have pics of the oil pump drive shaft?? down inside the block


I cant find any




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96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's
88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread
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Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted
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Old 03-16-2009, 04:39 PM   #19
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The oil pump drive shaft is basically just a bar of hex stock,

a 6.5mm socket should fit it-




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Old 03-16-2009, 04:52 PM   #20
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LOL thanks! I have seen it before, I am familiar with it, what I want to know is if its possible I pushed it out of the way, IE if it can go down far enough to come out of the round guide that holds it in place, basically I am praying for a miracle/simple fix

I am hoping I unbolt the coil tripod and the CPS, look down in there and see something I can fix, instead of having to pull the engine and try to return it......




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88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread
My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates
Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted
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