Drilling for tow hooks.

[Blee1099]

You can also mount the bolts right side up so that the nut faces down. You can either keep the extra 1" of thread from the bolt on or cut it off. Another trick to try is putting some grease on the on the nut when placing it on a open or box end wrench so that it still to the wrench.

 

[EBInterceptor]

I'll try both ways and see how it goes. Hopefully I'll also get some pics of my project when I'm done.

 

[enyego]

Do exactly as Rhyno says. Warning! Never pull "briwayjones" out of anything. By the way, the better the drill bit, the easier the job.

 

[Blee1099]

Spray the drill bit w/ WD-40 occasionally while drilling the hole. Otherwise you'll burn those bits up. Another option is if you know anyone in the steel erector business, have them cut the holes with a plasma cutter.

 

['96explorereddiebauer]

Dave (Digger196), Cameron, and I installed them on my rig last year. Use washers (and lots of them), bolts, and nuts. We drilled through the frame and bolted it up at the top of the frame. So in total, we drilled 4 holes...2 at the bottom of the frame and 2 at the top. I used this trick...when drilling, use some lubrications like WD-40 and use a hydralic jack. Place the drill on the jack, then have a partner wear his goggles and hold onto the drill while you slowly jack it up. It took a lot of hard work out from us. Good luck!!

 

[EBInterceptor]

I've drilled through square stock metal before to make jack stands using a drill press, and put a dab of oil in the spot where it was being drilled. I don't remember how thick it was, but seemed to work well... It was like recycled car oil I think. Or just some other real dark oil.

Unfortunately though, I don't know anyone with a plasma cutter.

 

[DeRocha]

Just by $0.02...I would use a corded drill and get some high quality drill bits (cobalt coated) that will drill with relative ease.

 

[Blee1099]

Originally posted by DEROCHA
Just by $0.02...I would use a corded drill and get some high quality drill bits (cobalt coated) that will drill with relative ease.

I think a 18V or higher cordless drill could probably handle drilling the hole in the frame. It just might drain the battery pretty quick.

 

[briwayjones]

Originally posted by Robb
Please don't do this!! Threads tapped into the frame won't last 5 seconds when actually pulling something with the hooks. I have yanked threaded bolts out of my X frame with as little as 300lbs on them.

I stand corrected then. I'm used to heavier frames and such where the metal is plenty good to do something like this. I guess the frame metal on an X is not as high grade or as strong as I thought it would be being a frame.

 

[Alec]

Case in point: one of my front swaybar bracket bolts got crossthreaded once. A couple months later, my swaybar tried to fly off! I ended up having to drill and tap a larger hole and use a larger bolt.

 

[EBInterceptor]

Well I tried the drilling, used a heavy duty corded drill. The only problem was that I just had gotten done with driving in the snow and it was melting in my face and dripping in my ears. I'm postponing this project until the snow clears up some and get the snow all out from in my X. As far as removing the bumper....how many bolts are holding it on? Will the come out easily?

 

[TheRookie]

I have drilled the frame with a cordless. a 19.2 volt porter cable but a cordless none the less. ALWAYS take a center punch and give yourself a nice starting point for the bit. This prevents it from "walking"