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Truck is down, Need it back Asap. Please help!
- Thread starter 93RangerPLSHelp
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93RangerPLSHelp
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Looks like I can get a "universal" one for about $70. Should I try pulling the old one and putting a straight.pipe to see if that is infact the problem?
93RangerPLSHelp
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Ok, cat is so rusted and old that the clamps shattered when I put any pressure on them. Got a flexible exhaust line I can swap it out and make sure it is only the cat and not the muffler too.
Problem is, it is so rusted on I couldnt budge it.
I bombed it with pb blaster and will come back to it tomorrow
Any suggestions?
Problem is, it is so rusted on I couldnt budge it.
I bombed it with pb blaster and will come back to it tomorrow
Any suggestions?
93RangerPLSHelp
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Haha I am in too deep to farm it out now haha
93RangerPLSHelp
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Soaked it with pb blaster a day ago. Heading over with a 4lb maul and a hacksaw. That cat is coming off today
2stroke
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When you go to put on the new cats, use one of those flexible connections in front of them. Not flex pipe, but the thing about 12" long that looks like its surrounded in braided steel.
Did all your plugs look exactly the same? A clogged cat can cause a rich condition but it would affect all cylinders equally.
Did all your plugs look exactly the same? A clogged cat can cause a rich condition but it would affect all cylinders equally.
93RangerPLSHelp
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yea, all the plugs (the 6 that I have swapped as of now) were all black. I will grab a flex connector when I grab the new cat.
Right now, I am just trying to get the old one off and run a straight pipe to see if it improves, or if the muffler might also be shot. They both seem to be OEM and its a 93 so I wouldnt be surprised
Are there any good bolt up cat back sytems for the 2.3? That might be worth it over piecing it together
Right now, I am just trying to get the old one off and run a straight pipe to see if it improves, or if the muffler might also be shot. They both seem to be OEM and its a 93 so I wouldnt be surprised
Are there any good bolt up cat back sytems for the 2.3? That might be worth it over piecing it together
93RangerPLSHelp
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As it stands, I need a smaller more compact hacksaw to chop the cat off. In the meantime, im going to beat on it pretty good and see if I cant break up some of the junk that is clogging it up.
It is rusted on pretty thoroughly
It is rusted on pretty thoroughly
93RangerPLSHelp
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So, randomly I got a funky noise. I check and my belt is super loose. I just tightened the tensioner all the way down.
Going to see if it goes slack again
Been beating on the cat, then letting the truck run and repeating. Actually seems to be improving hahaha
Going to see if it goes slack again
Been beating on the cat, then letting the truck run and repeating. Actually seems to be improving hahaha
93RangerPLSHelp
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Could my tensioner pulley assembly be causing some of these issues?
2stroke
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I doubt your serpentine belt would cause any of those problems. Sometimes the belt can stretch enough to where the tensioner is beyond what its spring can do. You know the name for a "short hacksaw?" A sawsall AKA reciprocating saw. Find someone who has one, and it will be out in less than a minute. The reason I tell you to use a flex connector is so you don't have to be exact when cutting.
93RangerPLSHelp
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The belt is brand new, so it would have to be a tensioner issue. I have a sawsall, just going to neec a very long extension cord haha
93RangerPLSHelp
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In any interesting twist, the Cat was already completely cleaned out. Stripped of all guts.
I think the turbulence certainly wasn't helping.
Going to look into some new coil packs and see how that goes. We have a new temp at work that used to be a mechanic, says its sounds like it could be the coil packs, since I already replaced the plugs and wires.
I think the turbulence certainly wasn't helping.
Going to look into some new coil packs and see how that goes. We have a new temp at work that used to be a mechanic, says its sounds like it could be the coil packs, since I already replaced the plugs and wires.
93RangerPLSHelp
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I swapped the new one in on the passenger side. Seems to be a bit better. Going to see if switching it to the other makes a difference, before I proceed.
I have searched around some and it seems that trouble holding idle and power loss/bogging out under acceleration seems to be a coil pack problem.
I have searched around some and it seems that trouble holding idle and power loss/bogging out under acceleration seems to be a coil pack problem.
93RangerPLSHelp
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So how do I test them?
I would need a multi meter correct?
Where would I put the leads?
By all accounts, I think that may be the problem and that would be a pretty easy fix.
I still need to figure out what is up with my exhaust. I looked online and it said it should be 2.25 from the headers to cat, and then 2 from the cat back. Well, when I chopped the cat off(only to find out it was already punched out) it looks more like the opposite. 2in from the headers to cat and then 2.25 from the cat back.
Did I get incorrect information?
I would need a multi meter correct?
Where would I put the leads?
By all accounts, I think that may be the problem and that would be a pretty easy fix.
I still need to figure out what is up with my exhaust. I looked online and it said it should be 2.25 from the headers to cat, and then 2 from the cat back. Well, when I chopped the cat off(only to find out it was already punched out) it looks more like the opposite. 2in from the headers to cat and then 2.25 from the cat back.
Did I get incorrect information?
2stroke
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You need an ohm meter. A DMM would be my first choice, but anything that reads ohms will work. You are essentially reading each coil for resistance. I don't know much about the 2.3, but from a little research turns up that each coil should be about 13k-15k ohms. The terminals on the side for the plug in should be close to zero. It looks like cylinder 1&4 are one coil, and 2&3 are another. Simply put a probe in each and read the resistance, then warm the engine, and do it again.
You kind of have scattered posts throughout the forum, but from what I gather, your truck ran ok, then you parked it. Now it runs rough, correct? To me this screams fuel problem.
I can't find anywhere on this thread where you posted fuel pressure, assuming you tested it.
The best thing you could probably do right now is drive it as much as you dare, and try to get a good KOER and KOEO test.
As for the exhaust, manifold to 2" to 2.25" catback seems standard. Both my 4.0's have that. I think you have completely ruled out an exhaust problem.
No matter what, your engine is running extremely rich. It might not be a bad idea to pop out your fuel injectors and clean them good. I have no clue how hard it is on the 2.3, but is trivial on the 4.0. I have never heard of an an ignition problem causing a rich condition. Bad O2 sensors are also a very real possibility, but almost impossible to tell without an engine code.
You kind of have scattered posts throughout the forum, but from what I gather, your truck ran ok, then you parked it. Now it runs rough, correct? To me this screams fuel problem.
I can't find anywhere on this thread where you posted fuel pressure, assuming you tested it.
The best thing you could probably do right now is drive it as much as you dare, and try to get a good KOER and KOEO test.
As for the exhaust, manifold to 2" to 2.25" catback seems standard. Both my 4.0's have that. I think you have completely ruled out an exhaust problem.
No matter what, your engine is running extremely rich. It might not be a bad idea to pop out your fuel injectors and clean them good. I have no clue how hard it is on the 2.3, but is trivial on the 4.0. I have never heard of an an ignition problem causing a rich condition. Bad O2 sensors are also a very real possibility, but almost impossible to tell without an engine code.
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93RangerPLSHelp
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I haven't been able to find the Schrader valve to be able to test the fuel pressure.
I know the guy that had it before me, said he replace the fuel pump(and since he did the fuel gauge always reads WAY full and doesn't change) and I myself recently changed the fuel filter.
The truck ran(pretty decent, got me back and forth to work) and then I had an electrical issue. Battery light on and it wouldn't start. I went through and swapped out the alternator, battery and negative battery cable, and now the truck does not seem to be running right.
It never held an idle, but now it struggles to start and then once it does you have to keep your foot on the gas some to keep an idle. I will say, that I am able to rev the engine up and it behaves much better now, but still has the issue of wanting to sputter out/bog down under acceleration/reving.
Throughout this process, the truck has been sitting at my workplace. So, I do not know what could have/would have changed while it was sitting to cause this much of an ussue.
I know the guy that had it before me, said he replace the fuel pump(and since he did the fuel gauge always reads WAY full and doesn't change) and I myself recently changed the fuel filter.
The truck ran(pretty decent, got me back and forth to work) and then I had an electrical issue. Battery light on and it wouldn't start. I went through and swapped out the alternator, battery and negative battery cable, and now the truck does not seem to be running right.
It never held an idle, but now it struggles to start and then once it does you have to keep your foot on the gas some to keep an idle. I will say, that I am able to rev the engine up and it behaves much better now, but still has the issue of wanting to sputter out/bog down under acceleration/reving.
Throughout this process, the truck has been sitting at my workplace. So, I do not know what could have/would have changed while it was sitting to cause this much of an ussue.
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