Transfer Case | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Transfer Case

i'll check around for you, used $250, local yard.

Actually the guy in RO i'd trust his diagnosis and if it where me and having been there a few times . . . i'd drop it off and let him figure it out maybe?

696 raceway is on my commute, lol, 70s put you in the granny lane, i'm in the middle lane doing about 80ish and they still zip past me. . .
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





i'll check around for you, used $250, local yard.

Actually the guy in RO i'd trust his diagnosis and if it where me and having been there a few times . . . i'd drop it off and let him figure it out maybe?

696 raceway is on my commute, lol, 70s put you in the granny lane, i'm in the middle lane doing about 80ish and they still zip past me. . .

The $650 has a 1 year unlimited miles warranty. It is broke apart and looked at. They are quoting me 300ish to install. Total out the door of 1047.00.

He sounds like the guy for the job, but dropping it off for him to look at is a 3 hour trip each way. My wife and I would be down to one car, which could be troublesome.

I have been motioned to move into the granny lane on 696 many times. I didn't realize how many people in detroit thought I was number 1. Only you guys don't use your index finger like on the west side, you prefer the middle one.
 






So its apart??? Did they say anything about what could be wrong? How do the bearings look? How long would they take? So for the $650 do they do anything to it? New seals, bearings etc?

Yea, with the 6 hours both way's i'd try and figure that cost in too, add the inconvenience of one car for 2 weeks, in which case it might be close to what your paying now, and a heck of lot easier. If you trust them, id go for it just to be done with it.

696 lol, it wasn't me, i get flipped off too doing 80 none the less, its usually those nut cases in the old beater that was totaled once already and bumper ducted taped on, headlight dangling down and then they tailgate you too doing 80. .lol

I work for the Auto industry too, all of our plants are down to one shift and still running half capacity. We work in logistics on the truck side of things for GM lost 3 plants in the last year or so.
 






So its apart??? Did they say anything about what could be wrong? How do the bearings look? How long would they take? So for the $650 do they do anything to it? New seals, bearings etc?

Yea, with the 6 hours both way's i'd try and figure that cost in too, add the inconvenience of one car for 2 weeks, in which case it might be close to what your paying now, and a heck of lot easier. If you trust them, id go for it just to be done with it.

696 lol, it wasn't me, i get flipped off too doing 80 none the less, its usually those nut cases in the old beater that was totaled once already and bumper ducted taped on, headlight dangling down and then they tailgate you too doing 80. .lol

I work for the Auto industry too, all of our plants are down to one shift and still running half capacity. We work in logistics on the truck side of things for GM lost 3 plants in the last year or so.

If we bought a used one it would get tore apart and looked at, current t-case is still on vehicle.. I am still waiting for a call back on the car. The shop is swamped. I called a consultant friend and he consulted a JY for a while, so he is going to contact them for me. I'll update when I get info from current shop.

good call on the bum on 696. That was the guy!

Out of curiosity, who do you work for? If you'd rather not say, that's fine.
 






If we bought a used one it would get tore apart and looked at, current t-case is still on vehicle.. I am still waiting for a call back on the car. The shop is swamped. I called a consultant friend and he consulted a JY for a while, so he is going to contact them for me. I'll update when I get info from current shop.

good call on the bum on 696. That was the guy!

Out of curiosity, who do you work for? If you'd rather not say, that's fine.

Called shop. They feel that the t-case shouldn't be fixed until we actually have problems. He is more concerned with the rear differential. He feels that we should replace items in the rear diff. Quoted 1125 to use new ford parts. 860 for junk yard parts. Does this seem high? He was leaning towards replacing everything from what he heard. He wanted to give me that quote because it was worst case. Anyone have this done, is this price high? any input is appreciated
 






The rear differential is more in line with the common problems that i read about. I never have heard about the xfr case going out on these X's, but these are still new, 2nd gens being older might have more failures.

When my first xfr case failed in my jeep, the vibs were at about 70mph for a few months, i didn't worry too much about it, the front output shaft had play too 1-2mm. About a year later in 4wd it started to grind and make a wizzing noises so i took it in. After putting in the reman the vibs were gone. Second one had vibs to for over a year then it stopped shifting, after the rebuild the vibs were gone. The vibs didn't feel major, more like a tire out of balance, i could feel it in my seat of pants, it didn't feel like it was more front or back or left or right , just kinda in the middle, i could also feel it in the shifter. Its hard to tell without driving it, . . .but he sounds right.

A while back i was checking for a rebuild kits they are expensive, basic kit was $250 and that was without R&P. R&P run another $200. When i was getting my trans rebuilt the RO guy quoted me $1500 to regear 3.73s and add a truetrac ($400 itself). With you being in Zeeland, i don't think there is a shop on every corner. . it would be a little high for detroit area but it sounds fair considering your location. It sounds like he is doing a good job for you.

If funds are really limited - by way last week i was holding a 3.73 LSD out of an '04 when i was at the junkyard.

I work for a freight company called ProLogistics, white tractors, yellow trailers. .
feel free to shot me a pm.
 






The rear differential is more in line with the common problems that i read about. I never have heard about the xfr case going out on these X's, but these are still new, 2nd gens being older might have more failures.

When my first xfr case failed in my jeep, the vibs were at about 70mph for a few months, i didn't worry too much about it, the front output shaft had play too 1-2mm. About a year later in 4wd it started to grind and make a wizzing noises so i took it in. After putting in the reman the vibs were gone. Second one had vibs to for over a year then it stopped shifting, after the rebuild the vibs were gone. The vibs didn't feel major, more like a round rollie thing out of balance, i could feel it in my seat of pants, it didn't feel like it was more front or back or left or right , just kinda in the middle, i could also feel it in the shifter. Its hard to tell without driving it, . . .but he sounds right.

A while back i was checking for a rebuild kits they are expensive, basic kit was $250 and that was without R&P. R&P run another $200. When i was getting my trans rebuilt the RO guy quoted me $1500 to regear 3.73s and add a truetrac ($400 itself). With you being in Zeeland, i don't think there is a shop on every corner. . it would be a little high for detroit area but it sounds fair considering your location. It sounds like he is doing a good job for you.

If funds are really limited - by way last week i was holding a 3.73 LSD out of an '04 when i was at the junkyard.

I work for a freight company called ProLogistics, white tractors, yellow trailers. .
feel free to shot me a pm.

Well, here is the update. I found the parts from a dealer (TASCA Ford in RI, which I highly recommend) and I went to the shop and talked to the owner. He is the one that has been diagnosing the problem. I asked him what is policy was on using parts that i brought in. He said he can't offer the warranty, but he totally understands. I then explained my cost savings. Kit for rear differential was $476 cost to him with his discount, plus he marked it up for the leg work. MSRP and local dealers wanted 535. TASCA Ford sells the part for $350. I don't pay tax, but I pay shipping (basically a wash). I will also purchase the seals for another 25 bucks. He has the rest of the items, lubricant, friction modifier, etc. and charge me the same rate as if he bought the parts. 7 Hours labor at $65 bucks, plus parts is going to put me a shade under $900 for Ford parts. Basically a $225 savings, for taking the time to search the net. I'm paying the same for a used one as I am for this one. This is the route I'm going. He worked for the dealership for 8 years to start his career and seems like a straight shooter. I want to fix this right, and I feel putting on a used one is going to result in problems in the near future.

I think we can put this one to bed for now. Hopefully I don't have to post soon about the t-case, we'll see.
 






Called shop. They feel that the t-case shouldn't be fixed until we actually have problems. He is more concerned with the rear differential. He feels that we should replace items in the rear diff. Quoted 1125 to use new Ferd parts. 860 for junk yard parts. Does this seem high? He was leaning towards replacing everything from wha' he heard. He wanted to give me that quote because it was worst case. Anyone have this done, is this price high? any input is appreciated

So, I just got the Explorer back and I checked my axle code, it is 45. This means it is an open differential. Is this a problem? I know in previous posts, people alluded to the fact that it had to be LS. I have confirmed it is not limited slip. The shop called the dealer and got the part numbers and he is telling me to buy the kit from the TSB. Can someone chime in if you know, so I don't blow my money on parts that are incorrect?
 






So being the nerd that I am, I searched online for people who actual rebuild the borg warners and found a company Worldwide transmission group out of IL. They will sell me a rebuilt t-case for 960 shipped with core return. Would it make more sense for me to buy a rebuilt t-case, have my shop tear apart the current t-case, or buy a used t-case for 650? Has anyone ever dealt with Worldwide transmission group? I understand they normally do not sell to the public.

me personally helped my buddy pull a t-case from our local junk yard USED for $125!!! and we had it in the truck in an hour.....runs great
 












huh? if you think that was a joke it wasnt junk yards are DIRT cheap for ****
 






huh? if you think that was a joke it wasnt junk yards are DIRT cheap for ****

Just giving you a hard time, might depend where you live. In my neck of the woods a used t-case is going for $350 - $450. Since there haven't been a lot of problems with the t-cases in Fords, I would most likely go that route.
 






alright gotcha... well thats gay dude shop around def...

i just got that you meant to say apr!l fools instead of january! haha cleaver auto editors...
 






So, I just got the Explorer back and I checked my axle code, it is 45. This means it is an open differential. Is this a problem? I know in previous posts, people alluded to the fact that it had to be LS. I have confirmed it is not limited slip. The shop called the dealer and got the part numbers and he is telling me to buy the kit from the TSB. Can someone chime in if you know, so I don't blow my money on parts that are incorrect?

I bet your shop doesn't want a kit to fix TSB 04-24-20. I would think they are talking about a kit to fix TSB 05-12-6: http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/supplier/tsb/05126.pdf I have seen posts where this commonly costs about $1200 to do.

Here's a thread with pics of why the rear ends in the Gen 3s whine:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=202090
 






I bet your shop doesn't want a kit to fix TSB 04-24-20. I would think they are talking about a kit to fix TSB 05-12-6: http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/supplier/tsb/05126.pdf I have seen posts where this commonly costs about $1200 to do.

Here's a thread with pics of why the rear ends in the Gen 3s whine:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=202090

You're dead on rrgone. They want to fix the 05-12-6 which is a problem I am exhibiting. I no longer have the problem in the 04-24-20 TSB. That only lasted a month, but who knows if it will come back in winter again. I don't know if improper fluid in the t-case could have caused it.

I saw that thread. We actually make pinion's and side gear washers at my plant. I'm very familiar with that component. Weird part is that some manufacturers start with a 1010 cold rolled steel (mild steel) and heat treat the parts for strength, while other manufacturers will start with a 1074 (spring steel) and heat treat it to a certain hardness. We had a great deal of problems on start up with our heat treater. They were in Michigan, and if they did these parts (very possible) I can see why there would be problems.
 






I think your on the right track with the TSB. I was checking online for Ford 8.8 Master Rebuild Kit and R&P a while back, a couple of gear shops have something similar and a tad cheaper but not far off. I vote for the Ford Kit should have everything since its designed to fix your problem.

Everyone wants to shave costs, is there a cost difference in the two steels? I would think ones a little cheaper maybe? But this is what happens when the big three purchasers tells your company, your making 5% less next year or your replaced, they got to save that money somehow . . imho.
 






I think your on the right track with the TSB. I was checking online for Ford 8.8 Master Rebuild Kit and R&P a while back, a couple of gear shops have something similar and a tad cheaper but not far off. I vote for the Ford Kit should have everything since its designed to fix your problem.

Everyone wants to shave costs, is there a cost difference in the two steels? I would think ones a little cheaper maybe? But this is what happens when the big three purchasers tells your company, your making 5% less next year or your replaced, they got to save that money somehow . . imho.

Seems like those who start with a spring steel drop it down to a lower hardness. 45 rcb vs 55 rcb. Therefore, I would say that wear would be better on the people who use the harder final product. I guess key would be hardness among the like components. Depends how much each component will wear. Something has to give in there. We build parts for the focus and fusion, but we quoted for a GM Rear diff. I can't remember where the washers go for focus and fusion. As for what is cheaper, the mild steel that gets heat treated.
 






Back
Top