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Has anyone had this noise with their Explorer?

Cashcrazy

Well-Known Member
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City, State
TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
2011 Limited Explorer
2003 Explorer and just crossed the 50k mark. Has anyone encountered the same symptoms and isolated the issue? The clicking or popping noise occurs when the wheel is turned to the right and will only make the noise once or twice at a time. The wheels can be straightened and then turned again to replicate the noise. Noise is only noticed at low speeds. The video should help. Thanks in advance.

Sorry, but I cant get the video to embed. Link below.

https://youtu.be/2gVIFJfsrVM
 



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It really sounds like the driver's side. I jacked it up, pushed the wheel back and forth and didn't have any play. The rubber boots on the upper ball joints are dry rotted, but no slack when I shook it.
 






It really sounds like the driver's side. I jacked it up, pushed the wheel back and forth and didn't have any play. The rubber boots on the upper ball joints are dry rotted, but no slack when I shook it.

Play is not the only thing to check for when checking a wheel bearing. It should be quiet when spinning the wheel, if it's rough and loud like in the video that's also a sign they're bad.

I can't really think of anything else unless it's your brake pads shifting.
 






It drives great. I don't think it's the wheel bearings because it spins quietly wand easily.
 






It drives great. I don't think it's the wheel bearings because it spins quietly wand easily.

I'm thinking loose fitting brake pads. but really could be any joint.
 






I just watched both upper ball joints while the clicking noise occurred and it didn't appear to come from them. I hope it's not the rack and pinion
 






I get the same thing in my awd mountaineer. I have new ball joints and new bearings (both less than 2 years old). I was thinking maybe control arm bushings or something with the sway bars or sway bar end links.
 






2003 Explorer and just crossed the 50k mark. Has anyone encountered the same symptoms and isolated the issue? The clicking or popping noise occurs when the wheel is turned to the right and will only make the noise once or twice at a time. The wheels can be straightened and then turned again to replicate the noise. Noise is only noticed at low speeds. The video should help. Thanks in advance.

Sorry, but I cant get the video to embed. Link below.

https://youtu.be/2gVIFJfsrVM

Check sway bar bushings and end links my rubbers are rotted out but I just have bit got around to it, mine pops when I make a turn or go over a bump, especially when I go up a driveway as it makes the suspension flex.
 






You better check the brakes.
 






I pulled the front wheel and the brake pads had plenty of life left.

I'll pick up some sway bar bushings and replace them. The parts website shows multiple options for this year. Does anyone know the size of the bar on an 03 XLS?
 






I pulled the front wheel and the brake pads had plenty of life left.

I'll pick up some sway bar bushings and replace them. The parts website shows multiple options for this year. Does anyone know the size of the bar on an 03 XLS?

My XLS has these:

Front: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3098232

Rear: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3098565

You could possibly reuse the old hardware and just replace the rubber bushings from a cheaper kit...
 






I pulled the front wheel and the brake pads had plenty of life left.

I'll pick up some sway bar bushings and replace them. The parts website shows multiple options for this year. Does anyone know the size of the bar on an 03 XLS?

Use a caliper and measure your own sway bar. I made this mistake a year ago and now have to redo the job with the proper size bushings. There's unfortunately no sure fire way to determine the correct size here, if you didn't own the vehicle since it was new, someone may have even swapped the bar with a different size.

Since its RWD that rules out your CV axles. Double check wheel bearings again, even back ones if fronts are good. Noises are sometimes strange in these vehicles. If all that is ok, check for looseness of any brake pads front and back. Check tightness of all steering components, inspect tie rod ends, inner tie rods, and the rack for any signs of play, damage, or corrosion. You noted your upper ball joints are rotted, this needs to be addressed as if let go it could be a serious safety issue. I recommend getting the entire upper control arm assembly from MOOG. I replaced both mine in under 2 1/2 hours with just hand tools, you should have no problems.

Once you fix those if the issue is still present you may want to start looking at your drivetrain for play. Check the drive shaft, as well as play in any of the four tires. Grab them at 9 and 3 and then 12 and 6. While off the ground and supported by a jack AND stands that is. -This should show you if there's any wear in any suspension components. If all else fails take it to the shop and have them diagnose it. Unfortunately noises can be very difficult to identify as they could be 1 of any 1000 parts.
 












Use a caliper and measure your own sway bar. I made this mistake a year ago and now have to redo the job with the proper size bushings. There's unfortunately no sure fire way to determine the correct size here, if you didn't own the vehicle since it was new, someone may have even swapped the bar with a different size.

Since its RWD that rules out your CV axles. Double check wheel bearings again, even back ones if fronts are good. Noises are sometimes strange in these vehicles. If all that is ok, check for looseness of any brake pads front and back. Check tightness of all steering components, inspect tie rod ends, inner tie rods, and the rack for any signs of play, damage, or corrosion. You noted your upper ball joints are rotted, this needs to be addressed as if let go it could be a serious safety issue. I recommend getting the entire upper control arm assembly from MOOG. I replaced both mine in under 2 1/2 hours with just hand tools, you should have no problems.

Once you fix those if the issue is still present you may want to start looking at your drivetrain for play. Check the drive shaft, as well as play in any of the four tires. Grab them at 9 and 3 and then 12 and 6. While off the ground and supported by a jack AND stands that is. -This should show you if there's any wear in any suspension components. If all else fails take it to the shop and have them diagnose it. Unfortunately noises can be very difficult to identify as they could be 1 of any 1000 parts.

I plan to replace the upper control arms after I isolate this popping. Thanks for suggesting the caliper and I will measure just so I know. I am positive the sway bar is the stock one. I am friends with the original owner that only gently drove it a few miles a day. That's how I managed to find an 03 with 50k.
 






Sway bar end links and frame bushings are common failures but end links usually clunk when broken and frame bushings generally squeak when dry or worn. While under there check to see if the steering stops are dry. Usually makes a loud metal to metal grinding sound when the wheel is turned to full lock and moving slowly over bumps. There's a round nub
on each LCA and a crescent shaped stop on the knuckle that should be greased to prevent binding. Pic below is from a 4WD ST but yours should be similar. BTW, excellent audio from your clip although I'm still baffled what the noise is. GL

steeringstops.jpg
 






I hope my suggestion helped you! Good luck! :D
 



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