What's the correct door lock actuator?

[GLOCKer]

Can someone do me a huge favor and post a picture of what the correct door lock actuator looks like for my 1998 Ford Explorer? When I'm searching I'm getting all kinds of results and then the results tell me they won't fit! It's for the driver door. Thank you!

 

[GLOCKer]

I'm looking at these for my driver door:
New Door Lock Actuator Front Driver or Passenger Side Explorer RH LH Left Right 723650203583 | eBay

The first one here:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,5.0l+v8,1304435,body,door+lock+actuator,13257

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007...k+actuator&dpPl=1&dpID=31WwT8ci50L&ref=plSrch

 

[swshawaii]

Front Door for 1998 Ford Explorer | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=YW7Z-54218A42-A

Door Lock Actuator Motors Identical

 

[GLOCKer]

Front Door for 1998 Ford Explorer | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=YW7Z-54218A42-A

Door Lock Actuator Motors Identical

Thank you!
This is a PITA! I went ahead and ordered this:
Door Lock Actuator - 1ADLA00018 at 1A Auto.com

 

[GLOCKer]

And I found this associated video:

 

[swshawaii]

Prefer your first choice from eBay. Benefit is you can just pry the old actuator out of the factory bracket while leaving the existing lock rod attached to the latch. Easier swap and slightly less expensive. Also never been a fan of anything from Dorman, even though they outsource a lot of parts. Every time I've used Dorman, fit has always been an issue. YMMV

 

[GLOCKer]

Prefer your first choice from eBay. Benefit is you can just pry the old actuator out of the factory bracket while leaving the existing lock rod attached to the latch. Easier swap and slightly less expensive. Also never been a fan of anything from Dorman, even though they outsource a lot of parts. Every time I've used Dorman, fit has always been an issue. YMMV

Damn it. I picked the one I ordered because it most outwardly resembled the stock piece. Ughhhhh.

 

[swshawaii]

BEFORE doing anything. IF you have the door panel off, could you take pics of your faulty actuator?

 

[GLOCKer]

BEFORE doing anything. IF you have the door panel off, could you take pics of the faulty actuator?

The part is ordered, and I'm at work...
But the door panel is off and I'll snap a picture as soon as I get home. I wont monkey with the new part until I consult with you further (it wont be at my doorstep for a couple of days).

 

[koda2000]

I've looked at these. It appear that they can be used on various models and locations/doors, as they come with an assortment of detachable rods.

 

[GLOCKer]

Hard to get photos; here is what I could get:

 

[swshawaii]

Looks like your actuators have permanently attached lock rods. For better pics remove the glass run channel held by one bolt. Also disconnect the actuator connector on the bottom and wiring clip from the channel then pull the window channel straight down. If you're sure the actuator is bad, and for better visibility, cut off the rubber cover.

 

[GLOCKer]

Looks like your actuators have permanently attached lock rods. For better pics remove the glass run channel held by one bolt. Also disconnect the actuator connector on the bottom and wiring clip from the channel then pull the window channel straight down. If you're sure the actuator is bad, and for better visibility, cut off the rubber cover.

I'll try to remove the whole thing from the door tomorrow.

 

[koda2000]

I've replaced both front and rear lock actuators. The rears are a PITA, the fronts are quite easy. I punch the center from the rivet that holds the actuator to the door, drill the rivet out and replace it with a small bolt and nyloc nut. Some here may suggest reusing the spring steel mounting bracket and just spreading it to install the new actuator, but it seems like a really good way to cut the be-Jesus out of yourself. Without the rubber boot I suppose it would be easier.

 

[GLOCKer]

Looks like your actuators have permanently attached lock rods. For better pics remove the glass run channel held by one bolt. Also disconnect the actuator connector on the bottom and wiring clip from the channel then pull the window channel straight down. If you're sure the actuator is bad, and for better visibility, cut off the rubber cover.

SWSHAWAII - I pulled the driver door lock actuator out today. I managed to do this without taking the riveted on bracket out of the door. The door lock actuator feels a little weak when power is put to it.

I have another concern; there isn't anything connecting the door lock to the latch mechanism. The door lock is just sitting there not attached to anything. Does anybody have a picture of how that is connected that they can share with me?

Here is the actuator:

 

[swshawaii]

Good for you. Looks like your original 1A Auto choice (746-145) is a direct replacement for the OE part. Also may be easier to replace with Dorman's removable lock rods. Regarding your door lock, are you referring to the key cylinder not being connected to anything? Should be a pink plastic lever on the cylinder that a lock rod is attached, that goes directly to the latch.

Actuator pics with the rubber cover removed for comparison.
Door Lock Actuator Motor Front-Left/Right Dorman 746-145 19495078692 | eBay

 

[GLOCKer]

Good for you. Looks like your original 1A Auto choice (746-145) is a direct replacement for the OE part. Also may be easier to replace with Dorman's removable lock rods. Regarding your door lock, are you referring to the key cylinder not being connected to anything? Should be a pink plastic lever on the cylinder that a lock rod is attached, that goes directly to the latch.

Actuator pics with the rubber cover removed for comparison.
Door Lock Actuator Motor Front-Left/Right Dorman 746-145 19495078692 | eBay

I found the linkage that connects the lock cylinder to the latch in the bottom of the door last night. But I also found this spring that I'm concerned may have fallen out of the latch mechanism.:

 

[koda2000]

That spring has nothing to do with the latch. People somethings install a spring like that to help a broken spring in the exterior door handle. Looks like a PO began to install the spring and gave up w/out actually installing it. Research "floppy door handle".

The actuator hooks into an arm on the latch that has a small yellow bushing in it.

 

[GLOCKer]

That spring has nothing to do with the latch. People somethings install a spring like that to help a broken spring in the exterior door handle. Looks like a PO began to install the spring and gave up w/out actually installing it. Research "floppy door handle".

The actuator hooks into an arm on the latch that has a small yellow bushing in it.

Thank you; good to know!

Because my wife accidentally woke me up at 0230 and I couldn't fall back asleep, I ended up on my laptop instead of sleeping... I went ahead and ordered a new door latch assembly just to be safe. I didn't realize it worked in conjunction with the door lock actuator and had a motor in it too.

 

[koda2000]

Thank you; good to know!

Because my wife accidentally woke me up at 0230 and I couldn't fall back asleep, I ended up on my laptop instead of sleeping... I went ahead and ordered a new door latch assembly just to be safe. I didn't realize it worked in conjunction with the door lock actuator and had a motor in it too.

Not sure of what you're saying, but the latch does nor have a motor in it. Just the actuator.