Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[janderson4010]

Ive gotta take my doubler back out and reseal it, i guess ill break down and take your reccomendation for the right stuff. Anything you can do to improve oiling in a diff is good juju, well done sir

 

[rookieshooter]

Here's the other side. This side was worse with the casting flash. It's about as sharp as a knife blade and jets out into the opening.

Here it about 90% done. Still a little at the top of the notch. I'll use a small file to get rid of that crap. It's stuff like that will mess up diff or an engine.
We used to call this kind of stuff...de-burring. Whether it was the block or more importantly, the rods. Not only can they fall off, but this is where a crack will start at those sharp corners.

 

[rookieshooter]

Ive gotta take my doubler back out and reseal it, i guess ill break down and take your reccomendation for the right stuff. Anything you can do to improve oiling in a diff is good juju, well done sir

Might want to check into the Right Stuff Gray.
http://www.permatex.com/documents/PX-0098B.RightStuffBrochure.pdf

I'm thinking I've increased the opening by at least 50% just by getting rid of the casting edges. Here it is with the race installed.
Plus got rid of the small crack in the 3562 pic. Talk about a stress related crack starting there when this is all locked up on some rocks.

You can clearly see how far the race sits from the gasket. The shiny part to the left of the gasket, is the axle tube.

 

[rookieshooter]

Had plans to work on the ARB install, but it seems my bearings that I ordered did not come in, even though USPS said it would be here Sat Priority mail. Oh well. Hope there here Mon or I'll have to make some calls.
So I turned my attention to the front hubs pass side hub that seemed a little stiff to turn. Wonder why lol.

Seems that mud bogging I did got all inside the hub. Time for a super clean of the stock Ford hub.

Started the clean up. Even removed the inner gear.

To disassemble this part ...

I had to peel back the ford logo and remove screw.

Be careful cause there's a powerful spring that will/can come flying out.

Here's the same part all cleaned, lubricated and spring compressed behind it with the small screw in place.

This was the trickiest part getting this part back together. Note the little ring gear is on the top in the first pic and then the next pic it is down. This is what moves when you turn the lockout handle. In the first pic the hub is locked and when turn to Free the gear screws down when the hub is turned. The ring gear will come off and if it's not installed the way the pic is shown in regard to lock or free, the spring can come flying off.

Then to cover everything in water resistant grease.

This time I put some "Right Stuff" on it and hopes that makes a better seal. I also put a smear of it over the screw so it won't back off since I removed the cover to get to it. I'll let the RS sit for several hours before tightening it up. That's the secret to get this stuff to seal.

 

[ECGS]

USPS didn't deliver them on time? That's good to know, we are looking at different carriers currently. It should have been delivered on Saturday like they said.

 

[rookieshooter]

USPS didn't deliver them on time? That's good to know, we are looking at different carriers currently. It should have been delivered on Saturday like they said.

It's USPS's fault I know. I just checked tracking and they revised for Mon.
No big deal on this end. But thanks for the concern.

 

[rookieshooter]

Look what came while I was reading Stephen King's novel "Needful Things" for the second time since it first came out lol. Just as long as those needful bearings did not come from that little shop that's in his book... things should be Ok.

Love to read, it helps the imagination. Or it could be, just another cut an paste modified bronco on some other RBV site.
Again thanks to ECGS

 

[rookieshooter]

Need to make my set-up bearing. This way I won't have to keep pressing bearings on and off. Once made I'll have them for future diff builds, who knows, might want to even go lower on the ratio. It took about 15 min to do both. So now I have both D44 and 70 set-ups
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v81/honda2nr4life/ARB/?action=view&current=M4H02857.mp4

Now to see the fruit of my labor in action
Click here.

Now this is a little freaky being the hole for the air line has to be just right as in relation to the spinning ring gear and the internal webbing of the case.
So at first all I did was to mark it with the spinning drill bit.
Measured, remeasured and measured again.

When drill, the bit has to be perpendicular to the case or 90 degrees to housing.
Used a 7/16" drill bit. The Dewalt cobalt drill bit with starter point went through the cast steel like hot butter. Used plenty of the drill bit cutting oil I posted earlier. I don't believe there is a better stuff on the market.

The new bit coupled with a new 1/4" NPT tap made for some clean threads.
I cleaned out the threads with acetone so the thread sealer will get a clean surface.

Getting an estimate of the amount of shims I'll need on the new ARB carrier bearings. The ARB has a Master shim that will be added so I can come up with a close (I hope) set up. It's about 3mm thick and goes at the end between bearing cone and case on ring gear side.
The ARB is not as wide as this carrier and needs the larger Master shim that is supplied with the ARB hardware. I still need some thin shims that will go between race and the side of the carrier. What I need is no slop when pushing back and forth left to right. Then it's just a matter of switching shims from side to side to get the right tooth pattern, unless i get it right the first time like the front D 44.

On the non ring gear side, all the shims go between race and Carrier, no thick Master shim. Now with all this said, I've never done an ARB so nothing I said is written in stone ha ha. This is still the set-up bearing.

Here I'm pushing the case to the right and measuring how much air space there is. Then find the right shims. The extension make for easier handling of this rather heavy piece of machinery.

 

[rookieshooter]

Today's menu, one 5.13 ring gear baked at 210 F served on...

one frozen ARB carrier at 10 F sautéed with WD 40 before being stuffed with ring gear.
I know what your thinking, does it taste like chicken?

 

[rookieshooter]

Ring gear on with all bolts torqued to specs with a dab of thread locker Red.
Still has set up bearings at this point. The white tape was there to hold the race on while lowering carrier. Watch the Fingers while lowering in the carrier. Can easily get fingers pinched, this 70 is just plain heavy.
At this point I have the Master shim out and once the real carrier bearings are on, the Master will fill the void that you see.
Those set up bearings work great while I had to change the shims between the races and carrier.
The back lash just by rotating ring gear seems right on. First it was too tight with the ring gear flush up with pinion. But removed about a .001" shim and it loosened up. Remember even with the gap at the right end, the ring gear can only be shoved over to the right until it hits the pinion.
Next I'll check the pattern and mike the actual back lash. And then I need to do the air plumbing once the fitting with the copper air line is placed on the carrier before the race goes on. It's a speacial machined part that it slides over.

 

[rookieshooter]

Need to call ARB and ask, what's the notch for on the seal housing fitting that slides onto the carrier.? Unless it's a generic thing where the notch is for another model?
Do not see a thing in the instructions. Darn west coast time lol

 

[rookieshooter]

Problem solved. Just called ARB located in Wash state and he explained that the sheet metal bracket that goes on top of bearing cap has a notch that lines up with the air bracket. They really need to put a pic like this for dummies like me lol. Might just email this to them. In the instructions about how to install the air fitting with the rubber seals and what direction to point the copper line, it never mentions the notch. It just states to point the copper line down, Oh well.
But love the fact that I was able to reach someone that quick.

 

[rookieshooter]

Here is the fitting that let's all the air into the carrier. Note the small hole inside the fitting directly across from copper fitting.
But the main thing I need to do is to install those two rubber seals. Extremely important not to twist while placing in the grooves.
If you were able to see a section view of the gaskets, you would notice that they are of a square design with a slight concave shape to create a seal.

Starting to form the shape of the air tube to exit the housing. This part makes me nervous.

 

[rookieshooter]

The pattern per Dana's Ring Gear and Pinion Tooth pattern tooth Interpretation, looks good from heel to toe and far enough away from edge. Back lash was around .005" with just a few inch pounds to turn the yoke. All and all I'm pleased with this axle which utilizes ECGS gears and ARB locker. Soon to have Moser axles, maybe today or in a couple anyway.

After all that measuring it' time to install the actual carrier bearings. Took bearing and heated up a little in the toaster oven and then using my home grown bearing installer with the help of another bearing part for proper size I just knocked it right in place.

Now that did not take long at all. Spent more time on this site today then setting up the rear, I do believe

 

[rookieshooter]

Here's a better pic of the pattern after I gave it a few more revolutions.

Looked what showed up at my door while I was setting up the gears, no not the attack cat, she's trained to guard any packages that get dropped off. But the Moser custom alloy axles.

 

[rookieshooter]

I think those Moser Engineering axles really compliment the D70.
Hard to see but ME is embossed in the center of the flange. Plus it's up side down.

But let's get to the real reason why I like Moser, first I have used Moser since they first went into business for my drag cars and never had an issue. The fact that they're made by the people who sell them. Not some for Asian country who ships them over here with who knows what quality control.

Compare the stock 70 axle to the ME axle and you can see how the strength is improved.
The top is the stock axle.
Both axles at the spline measure 1.500" but thats the last thing that stays the same. Note the blue arrow pointing to where the splines end. The way it ends is a structural flaw, at least for hard core use as in Rocks.
The machined splines ends abruptly creating a vertical line. This is a fracture stress point if there ever was one. But wait it gets worse. Yes both axles are categorized as 1.500" but that's far from the truth which I have never understood that. The stock Dana axle does not measure 1.500" through out the majority of it's length, in fact it's considerably smaller. Reason...Where the splines end the diameter of the axle is now the same diameter as the valley of the spline, not the peak which is 1.5". So now the stress point is even weakened more at the end of the spline creating a distinct vertical line that measures two different widths on either side of the machined line that goes perpendicular to the rotating (Torque) axle. Now you have potential Trouble in River City.

Now look how Moser did it, the 1.5" at spline goes full length. Plus the machined spline transitions gradually back to a round configuration.
Now throw in the alloy they use in these axles and it's one tuff axle.
Also might mention that these are not any standard axle lengths, but custom made for this custom length housing.

 

[rookieshooter]

Just degreased all 16 axle flange bolts and then placed outside to baste in the sun to dry.

While they were drying I ran a tap to clean all 7/16 x 20 holes in hub. Just a word about using a tap vs a chase tap which is made for cleaning. I've never had a problem using a tap. The only thing you have to watch out for is if it starts to remove metal..Stop. Some holes may have a different pitch to the teeth and you do not want to change that.

Installed the new metal shim between axle flange and hub. Then added some thread locker blue to the threads and torqued all 16 bolts.
A lot of care went into those bolts as far as cleaning and torquing. These bolts are mounted more for shear strength then clamping. I've read where one guy sheared all the bolts on his D70 saying it was the torque of his crawler. This may be true, but I think the real culprit was those bolts not torqued properly.
Once they loose their friction between the flange and the hub, which is supplied by the preload, then the rotational force of the flange against the hub acts like a Shear which can slice right through those bolts.

Other then a few fittings for the 1/8 air line on top of the housing, this baby is Done Hallelujah

 

[mynameisaric]

nice work!

 

[janderson4010]

thats a nice looking gear tooth pattern, as usual your attention to detail is superb.

 

[rookieshooter]

Thanks guys and now to Click on Friggin Awesome no explanation necessary. Other then listen to the audible click at 85#.

Again thanks to ECGS, ARB and Moser who all answered my questions and then some. ARB informed my yesterday that I just installed one of the first ever 2 piece design D70 lockers. Just wish I could go test it out sooner.
Going to be soooo nice to get my turning radius back, not mentioning no more scaring the lil old blue haird ladies in the Wal mart parking lots with all the chirping noise ha ha.
Excuse me while I adjust my Halo lol. But Moser picked my truck to be in it's gallery, which they decide who's vehicle gets entered. I think it's the only hardcore trail truck. Then a possible nationwide advertisement.