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Complete Brake Job

ffpmme

Member
Joined
August 14, 2012
Messages
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City, State
Davenport, Florida
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer Limited
Hello, So when I say complete I mean it!!! My car started pulling sharply to the left when stopping, so had it checked out.

Calipers are sticking but since they are stock. rotors are below min, and pads are going because the calipers are sticking. Finally they say lines may need to be replaced.

SO here are my questions. You guys were super awesome when I had to do my axle seals a few months ago, looking for more help!

1) Any brand better or not better then the other? I found a kit on Amazon, Power Stop, with pads and rotors for 150. If I get from NAPA it looks around 220. Napa branded parts. Advance is about the same, with Fenco loaded caliper and wearever rotors.

2) Brake lines? Custom made or can I just buy them? I like the SS ones I saw in another post. They looked mesh but not sure if any one around here has them for a good price. Can you find them online? Are they dif###lt to replace? I know I have to purge and bleed them, but am I missing anything else?

Thanks for the help and ideas.

2000 Explorer Limited, AWD v-8.
 



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I wold NOT touch the brake lines unless you see cracks. Any air sucked in will get into the ABS module and you cannot bleed it out without a computer tool from dealer.
I like the Raybestos Pro Grade discs and ThermoQuiet or Performance Friction brake pads.
 






I will take a look at them thanks!! Any recommendations for calipers? Was not sure I had ABS.
 






I will take a look at them thanks!! Any recommendations for calipers? Was not sure I had ABS.

I've had luck with whatever the local parts stores sell. They are all remans anyway, you probably don't want to ship back heavy cores.

I do suggest new brake hoses as well, many times a stuck caliper turns out to be a collapsed hose acting as a check valve. NAPA is good, Ford is best but expensive.

As for the hard brake lines - if you have heavy rust, eventually they will fail. I replaced mine without any ABS bleed issues - I do have the tool to do it (its for other cars too) but I needed a special cable adapter for the ex - there was never a reason to buy it. YMMV. If all the fluid is in the system, you may be able to crush the lines near the ABS unit to keep the fluid upstream, the replace everything. It is not a fun job.
 






i would go with Wagner rotors (or other U.S. made OE quality), reman calipers (A1 Cardone or similar) and a decent quality ceramic pads (AutoZone Duralast gold or similar). this combo will give you OE or better than OE performance and no wheel dust. if your truck is RWD the front rotors are more expensive because they include the hub. you can spend a lot more or a lot less.
 






Also check motorcraft rotors, when I bought them years ago they were a few bucks more than whitebox. High quality product that does not warp. The originals had 120K and were passable.
 






i would go with Wagner rotors (or other U.S. made OE quality), reman calipers (A1 Cardone or similar) and a decent quality ceramic pads (AutoZone Duralast gold or similar). this combo will give you OE or better than OE performance and no wheel dust. if your truck is RWD the front rotors are more expensive because they include the hub. you can spend a lot more or a lot less.

Ok so it sounds like there is not a huge difference over a brand or another or anything to stay away from. The brake lines are just the soft one's going into the caliper. So I am going to have half the line disconnected to replace the caliper anyway. IS that extra step that big a risk? How would I minimize any risk?

My shocks need to be replaced also, thought on doing it at this time as well since the wheel is off?
 






Ok so it sounds like there is not a huge difference over a brand or another or anything to stay away from. The brake lines are just the soft one's going into the caliper. So I am going to have half the line disconnected to replace the caliper anyway. IS that extra step that big a risk? How would I minimize any risk?

My shocks need to be replaced also, thought on doing it at this time as well since the wheel is off?

If you are really worried about fluid loss have someone keep an eye on the master cyl tank and add fluid as you work.

Just avoid cheap stuff (like $10 brake pads) that will probably work but squeak or eat your rotors.
 






If you are really worried about fluid loss have someone keep an eye on the master cyl tank and add fluid as you work.

Just avoid cheap stuff (like $10 brake pads) that will probably work but squeak or eat your rotors.

Thanks for the tip on the brake lines. I am going to look at the connections and see. I may do the rest of the job and have ford do the lines.

I am looking at what I think are good brands. So I am not to worried, just was wondering if some one tried Wagner pad or some other name brand and though they were just horriable.
 






I just went to Oreilly's and did get brakes for my explorer
The brand oreilly offers is called Brake Best
I bought the Brake Best ceramics for about $43 for the front
the rear I just went with regular nothin special pads for $20
Rotors will run you a bit of money there though
I didn't do rotors
This spring I plan on doing the brakes right and go all new, until then I am just gonna ride on these brakes
The brakes I put on are awesome
they stop quick.... I will do a 60-0 distance soon
 






I will do a 60-0 distance soon
If the brakes can trigger the ABS on dry pavement (with normal tires), they are as good as they can be...

To brake shorter than that you would need wider tires.
 






you can't beat rockauto.com for prices or if you need same day check advancedauto online and pickup in store, like this weekends deal was 20% off and if you spend 100 or more you get a $50 coupon to use between Feb 3rd and march 1st.
 






RE RockAuto. i use them a lot and they have great prices, but after i look there and get a total including shipping and applied discount, i also check Amazon, because if you're spending $25 or more you can usually get free shipping through Amazon using "Super Saver" when you check out. and while RockAuto usually ships pretty fast, if your parts are coming out of more than one of their warehouses, you end up paying more for shipping and don't get all your parts at the same time. over thanksgiving week i had to wait over a week for one part i needed, where the rest of my order came in 2 days. so, i find Amazon ships even faster.
 






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