What is this called? Tie Rod Connector? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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What is this called? Tie Rod Connector?

jpoprock

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
134
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City, State
Kokomo, IN
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Explorer Limited
I went to change the front brakes and rotors on my 2002 Explorer Limited and noticed a part was broken. I'm not a mechanic, so I really don't know what this part is called. It looks like it might be an easy fix, and probably torqued on.. but I don't know what it's called so I can order the replacement:

TieRodConnector.jpg



Thanks!
Jason
 



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Thanks guys. That's a relief. I know for sure that my Left front hub is shot, and I'm going to have someone repair it for me. I could do it, but Ive heard they can sometimes be problematic. It's been roaring a little for a while now.

Are front shocks a big deal to change out? I'm hoping it's a matter of unbolting the old and putting in the new. (nice catch Esclamada!)

Jason
 






Thanks guys. That's a relief. I know for sure that my Left front hub is shot, and I'm going to have someone repair it for me. I could do it, but Ive heard they can sometimes be problematic. It's been roaring a little for a while now.
Are front shocks a big deal to change out? I'm hoping it's a matter of unbolting the old and putting in the new. (nice catch Esclamada!)

Jason

This is my hub bearing torn apart. It was also roaring for a couple thousand miles. We got caught with it starting to make noise while 2000 miles from home. I drove it back home, by then the noise was pretty insistent. Much farther, and the bearing would have crumbled, and then.....well, almost any really bad thing could happen! Don't leave it go too long! imp


wheel_10.jpg
 






This is my hub bearing torn apart. It was also roaring for a couple thousand miles. We got caught with it starting to make noise while 2000 miles from home. I drove it back home, by then the noise was pretty insistent. Much farther, and the bearing would have crumbled, and then.....well, almost any really bad thing could happen! Don't leave it go too long! imp


wheel_10.jpg

Imp... I hear that getting the bearing pulled off can be a brutal chore sometimes. If I knew it would come off fairly easily, i'd do it myself. But if I get it all tore apart and can't get it off, I'm hosed. A local mechanic said that If I brought him the hub, he'd install it for $100. That sounded fairly decent to me. I know the guy, so he might be cutting me a break. THen again, I have no clue how many hours he'd have in it.
 






End links are probably the single most common front suspension failure. Also check the sway bar frame bushings.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1377660,parttype,7580

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4202718&cc=1377660]

I just noticed these are slightly different, but the same product. Is there a difference otherwise?



I also just noticed there are different sizes. Is this something I'm supposed to measure? Why would there be varying sizes for a 2002 Ford Explorer? Wouldnt they all be the same?

Thanks!
Jason
 












It's a good thing I have a digital caliper to measure this then! Thank you!
 






"Imp... I hear that getting the bearing pulled off can be a brutal chore sometimes. If I knew it would come off fairly easily, i'd do it myself. But if I get it all tore apart and can't get it off, I'm hosed. A local mechanic said that If I brought him the hub, he'd install it for $100. That sounded fairly decent to me. I know the guy, so he might be cutting me a break. THen again, I have no clue how many hours he'd have in it."

Fronts are relatively easy, since the whole wheel hub containing the bearings is removable as a unit by removing the big nut from the axle shaft, then 3 screws which retain the hub to the steering knuckle. I bought mine on E-bay for $51.00 each, brand new, whole hub comes with bearings already pressed-in, even has new wheel lugs in I, and comes with a new ABS sensor attached. Made in China, though, frowned upon by some. I have had no trouble with them at all, about 50K miles now.

Rears are another story. Since the "knuckle" back there doesn't "steer", the bearings are pressed right into the knuckle. Unless you have had experience using a hydraulic press, and a bunch of bushings of various sizes to use for pressing the bearings without damaging them, the job would be near impossible using big hammers. Some will say I'm wrong. Those will be the "hammer-mechanics". Rears are a *****, do-able, not easy.

A hundred bucks is well worth it, if the guy knows what he's doing. imp
 






I'm gonna change my driver side sway bar link this weekend, but I don't have time to do the bushing or the passenger side. I need to drive to Chicago on the 25th. So I'll do the other stuff later. I figure since the link is broken, i should fix it before a long drive.

To be clear... do I take the busted one off and put the new one on with the wheels on the ground/jack stands so it's compressed? Do I have to grease the Moog Problem Solver link bushings like I would the sway bar bushings?

Thanks!
Jason
 






On the ground wheels straight. Hardest part is removing the stock links. DON'T over tighten, about 10-15 ft/lbs is adequate.
 






You don't need to fix it before any long trips, it doesn't even do anything while highway driving. The sway bars keep the vehicle from leaning while going around corners. Mine have been broken for 6000 miles now, I do have new ones in the basement though just waiting for my garage to be finished.
 






I got it changed no problem, but I think it might be upside down? Plus I tightened it with the truck on the ground, and either the bolt has come loose already, or something shifted. Looks like I have about a 1/2" of play now. I put it on nut side down, and tightened it snug until it was hard to do (my arms were putty by then anyway)
 






Aftermarket? Probably different from the stock end links and must be the same length on both sides. Change BOTH.
 






Ok, I can change both. I went with the Moog Problem Solver. And I think it's supposed to go on with the bolt on top. So that means I have it on upside down. I probably only makes a difference in that it's harder to work itself loose if on the top, not the bottom.
 






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