5R55S transmission rebuild

[laurentg]

Hi,
My 02 explorer's automatic transmission is another victim of the overdrive servo-bore issues; in fact the casing actually broke where the clip holds the servo and its guts poured out.

I've now removed the old transmission, ordered a used casing (with servo bore bushings installed) and a rebuild kit. I'm now looking forward to doing the transplant.

I'm looking for info on the process, i haven't found much other than someone reference a "manual" (I at least know Haynes has a generic Ford transmission manual). Or maybe I can do it without a book? I've changed the bands on my older explorer without one... but I realize this is a little more involved.

Instructions or tips are welcome! Also, do you guys know if I'll need a hydraulic press or special tools?
thanks

 

[ponkotsu]

I was planning to order this:

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/ATSG_transmission_repair_manual_s/11792.htm

 

[laurentg]

Well I found out pretty quick that you need a special tool (ford tool 307-397) to pull the front cover in the bell housing - which is actually the front pump. The tool goes for 100 to over 200$!

It seems to be stuck pretty tight. Anyone has a tip to get this off without it? Otherwise it looks like this transmission is going to the shop!

 

[imp]

Well I found out pretty quick that you need a special tool (ford tool 307-397) to pull the front cover in the bell housing - which is actually the front pump. The tool goes for 100 to over 200$!

It seems to be stuck pretty tight. Anyone has a tip to get this off without it? Otherwise it looks like this transmission is going to the shop!

The tool is nothing more than a clamp with a hole through the center which squeezes onto the protruding snout with the spline on it, grabs it tightly, then a slide-hammer is used to nudge the cover out of it's recess.

A large gripping tool, I'm guessing here, as I haven't done it, which could grasp that snout in a similar way, then be bumped from outside to loosen it, would maybe work. MAYBE a big vise-grips type plier, which could clamp a socket wrench extension, maybe 3/8", to the snout, then another regular vise grips clamped on the outer end of the extension, could provide a surface out in the open enough to hammer from behind on the 2nd. vise grips, I'll bet that would dislodge the cover and let you slip it off.

Having opened up or disassembled just about everything Ford makes over the years, I have done so without ever having a special tool as recommended. Did I have trouble? Yes. But usually, improvise can "win out". Use your "mechanical wits" to bail yourself out whenever you can! imp

 

[rmcknight]

there is a great youtube on the 5w55s complete disassembly.

 

[laurentg]

awesome video, thanks.
it didn't show the teardown - but I found this guy hammering at it to get it loose, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ekg5mhVPbZo at around 7:25.

git'er done.

 

[imp]

awesome video, thanks.
it didn't show the teardown - but I found this guy hammering at it to get it loose, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ekg5mhVPbZo at around 7:25.

git'er done.

Good vid! But don't wallow out the pocket it sets in doing it like him, remember this stuff's aluminum, soft, or the resulting misalignment might mean trouble later. Best is pull it straight out. HOW you do it, is your problem! Ha! imp

 

[rmcknight]

that guy eats transmissions for breakfast.

 

[tree11]

Can someone tell me how to replace the solenoid pack on the 5R55W transmission?2003

 

[imp]

Can someone tell me how to replace the solenoid pack on the 5R55W transmission?2003

Loosen oil pan screws, let fluid drain out, lower carefully, have a BIG drain pan ready, stay clear, let fluid drain. Remove 2 bolts retaining oil filter/screen, and remove. Loosen 8 solenoid body bolts using 30 Torx bit, carefully remove solenoid body module from valve body.

Now what? imp

 

[ponkotsu]

that guy eats transmissions for breakfast.

I've watched a few of his videos. Looks like he could literally rebuild one blindfolded. (I think my transmission builder actually did do mine blindfolded...)

 

[tree11]

Loosen oil pan screws, let fluid drain out, lower carefully, have a BIG drain pan ready, stay clear, let fluid drain. Remove 2 bolts retaining oil filter/screen, and remove. Loosen 8 solenoid body bolts using 30 Torx bit, carefully remove solenoid body module from valve body.

Now what? imp

Thanks.I have the pan off.I should soak rebuilt one in fluid b4 installing?

 

[JoshMcMadMac]

Loosen oil pan screws, let fluid drain out, lower carefully, have a BIG drain pan ready, stay clear, let fluid drain. Remove 2 bolts retaining oil filter/screen, and remove. Loosen 8 solenoid body bolts using 30 Torx bit, carefully remove solenoid body module from valve body.

Now what? imp

You neglected the most painful part...the 10mm connector on the top of the solenoid block. It is definitely worth the cost to get a ratcheting combination wrench for that bolt.

Thanks.I have the pan off.I should soak rebuilt one in fluid b4 installing?

Are you stating that you have a "rebuilt" solenoid block? If so, I would urge you to return it, as they cannot be rebuilt and you most likely just have a used part. The solenoid blocks are sensitive pieces, and are one of those parts that truly should only be replaced with new parts.

 

[imp]

I was planning to order this:

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/ATSG_transmission_repair_manual_s/11792.htm

Excellent publication, clearly written, good illustrations, in fact, better than the Ford Shop Manual. imp

 

[imp]

You neglected the most painful part...the 10mm connector on the top of the solenoid block. It is definitely worth the cost to get a ratcheting combination wrench for that bolt.


Are you stating that you have a "rebuilt" solenoid block? If so, I would urge you to return it, as they cannot be rebuilt and you most likely just have a used part. The solenoid blocks are sensitive pieces, and are one of those parts that truly should only be replaced with new parts.

I agree completely. As far as I know, no one is actually "rebuilding these things". To begin with, some have bronze guides for the plungers which crumble into little pieces. Housings are machine-crimped, not openable, pretty hopeless looking chore to actually rebuild. imp

Edit: I did not soak mine in fluid when I replaced it. Out of the box, it seemed pretty oily as it was packaged (I hate transmission fluid all over everything, a necessary evil!). The box looked originally sealed, made by Bosch in Germany, it said. Working OK now for about 30K miles.

 

[ponkotsu]

I agree completely. As far as I know, no one is actually "rebuilding these things". To begin with, some have bronze guides for the plungers which crumble into little pieces. Housings are machine-crimped, not openable, pretty hopeless looking chore to actually rebuild. imp

Edit: I did not soak mine in fluid when I replaced it. Out of the box, it seemed pretty oily as it was packaged (I hate transmission fluid all over everything, a necessary evil!). The box looked originally sealed, made by Bosch in Germany, it said. Working OK now for about 30K miles.

A tranny shop I talked to said the same things. They only use NEW OEM. He said they had 90% failure rate on reman's and gave up. Like you say, they can't be rebuilt. Once those aluminum bores are worn, it's garbage.

 

[tree11]

03 mountaineer

thanks for advice.i was told by parts place that ford stopped making solenoid blocks for 2003.
My rebuilt came from www.sonnax.com .part#56954k .OR www.advpowertrain.com. soaked in fluid,saw bubbles. unhooked battery.
can't get the bad one off.took 8 bolts out.it wiggles.....so theres something on top holding it?

 

[JoshMcMadMac]

thanks for advice.i was told by parts place that ford stopped making solenoid blocks for 2003.
My rebuilt came from www.sonnax.com .part#56954k .OR www.advpowertrain.com.

It sounds like you have been receiving a decent amount of bad information. Ford still sells solenoid blocks; the most recent revision is part number 9L2Z-7G391-A and can be had from dealers like Tasca for just under $300.

I have no experience with the Sonnax remanufactured units. It does look like they at least attempt to improve them with an external circuit board, unlike most places that just pull used low mileage units and call them rebuilt. However, they are still rebuilding an older revision and they are not addressing the internal wear issues. Spending a little more for the right part is still my recommendation.

can't get the bad one off.took 8 bolts out.it wiggles.....so theres something on top holding it?

You need to unscrew the 10mm electrical connection on the top of the solenoid block...like I said:

You neglected the most painful part...the 10mm connector on the top of the solenoid block. It is definitely worth the cost to get a ratcheting combination wrench for that bolt.

 

[ponkotsu]

I just bought one off Ebay for $150. Supposedly new in box Ford OEM pn 9L2Z7G391A . Let's see when I get it if I got scammed...

 

[laurentg]

I thought I'd post what I ended up doing to remove my stubborn front pump cover from my 5R55S (without the Ford Tool)... This was really easy and I hope it will help another do-it-yourselfer in the same situation. Essentially I threaded 2 holes, put some bolts in and pried it off with very little effort.

So here is the front cover stuck on:

I noticed the holes were fairly deep:

So I measured and tapped threads in them. I found 3/8-24NF (Fine threads) was a perfect match (for a 21/64" drilled hole). Coarse threads may have worked but I wanted to make sure I have enough threads for a good bolt engagement because of the limited depth and the chamfer at the tip of the tap.

I did that for 2 opposite holes and then put in 1" long 3/8 bolts with washers. You can also see the 90deg tool lying around I used, alternating between the 2 sides:

The cover popped right out:

This is my 2$ solution:

Now all of the internals are out...
I'll post the rebuild process later on.