Fuel neck rusted

[Sean Anderson]

The metal fuel neck has rusted through part in hose, I carefull got the chunk of metal out of the hose, and replaced the fuel neck...do I need to replace my fuel pump and clean out my tank? Because of possible rust in there? Does the stock fuel pump have filters on them? Thanks for help

2001 Explorer XLT 4.0L 182k miles one owner 5 speed auto, original floor mats

 

[koda2000]

The fuel pump has a strainer sock on it to keep larger junks out of the pump. However, at a 182k on the original pump you're living on borrowed time. I've had 6 fail (on 6 different 2000-2001 Explorers/Mountaineers) all with around 175k-200k. They mostly all failed with intermittent FP operation when the weather turned cold. I'd change it just for PM. I replaced just the pump part using Bosch 69128 fuel pump kits I bought off eBay. They come with everything needed, except the new strainer sock and a new fuel filter, and have performed flawlessly. All-in for under $90.

Bosch 69128: You wont need the large O-rings and one of the rubber pump insulators

FS111 strainer sock:

Motorcraft fuel filter:

 

[Sean Anderson]

Okay, so I was doing a little looking real quick, and there are different “GPH” ratings which one should I look at? What about replacing one of the full assemblies, they go on eBay for like $40. Lol I figured I would ask. Or is just replacing the pump just fine?

 

[Craigerz]

I went with the drop in replacement. I bought the cheap ones and both lasted about 3 months. One was in my Dodge 3500. Spend the extra 50 bucks and by a good one was the lesson I learned. It's not worth the hassle IMO because dropping the tank isn't hard, but it isn't exactly fun either.

https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-HP10128-Hanger-Assembly-Sending/dp/B0054TR53M/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522951427&vehicle=1997-54-663-656--9-6-8-1861-1088-9-1-851-138-4-0&sr=1-13&ymm=1997:ford:explorer

That might be the same one as an 01

Even if you don't change the pump the fuel filter would be on the top of the list.

 

[fast_dave]

Okay, so I was doing a little looking real quick, and there are different “GPH” ratings which one should I look at? What about replacing one of the full assemblies, they go on eBay for like $40. Lol I figured I would ask. Or is just replacing the pump just fine?

Sean,

On a 17 year old vehicle w/ 182K - it can't hurt to change your fuel pump...

Divide your TOTAL MILES by your AVERAGE MPG and get an idea of how many gallons have been pumped over it's lifetime.

The original FORD fuel pump/fuel sender assembly is built like a TANK. It's high grade stainless steel, and all you REALLY need to change is the actual fuel pump.

If you have basic mechanical ability, swapping out the bad pump for a new pump is about a "3" on a scale of 1-10 (10 being hardest).

Dropping the Fuel Tank is about a "5" on the 1-10 scale. It's dirty, bulky, and requires a lot of set-up/preparation. TIP: run your tank down to about 2 - 3 gallons before attempting dropping it.

The BOSCH that KODA2000 suggested is the FORD OEM manufacturer that came with your EX - and is top of the line.

Depending on your budget, there are a few more offerings from Rock Auto

FUEL PUMP LINK: 2001 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Fuel Pump | RockAuto

My Ex has just over 200,000 Miles, and about two months ago I had to replace my Factory Original Fuel Pump. Koda2000 said that he changed 5 or 6 of them, and that it was his experience that the OEM Fuel Pumps last between 175,000 - 200,000 Miles.

With that said, in my experience, Rock Auto sells only good stuff, so I recently went with their TYC fuel pump offering (after checking out TYC's website and investigating them). Turns out they're an OEM Approved Supplier to Suzuki, Ford, International, Toyota, Ducati, and Mini.

TYC LINK: TYC Genera - Fuel Pumps & Modules

The TYC Fuel pump came with everything and MORE stuff than I needed. For Instance, it came with an extra wiring harness - BUT - the stock FORD wiring harness was an exact fit to the connection on the fuel pump, so there was no need to change the wire harness connector.

The Fuel Strainer that comes with the TYC Fuel Pump (note: not shown in the picture above - but I can confirm that it is included) is a "universal" fuel strainer - it looks like a tiny 2" X 2" square and it's much smaller than the Original Ford OEM Strainer - so I also purchased a BIG FUEL STRAINER that is what FORD installs at the factory = DENSO 9520033

FUEL STRAINER LINK: 2001 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Fuel Pump Strainer | RockAuto

And of course, as Koda2000 suggested, and I 100% agree with - buy a Genuine Motorcraft Fuel Filter. No sense putting a new fuel pump behind an old fuel filter...

FUEL FILTER LINK: 2001 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Fuel Filter | RockAuto

Here's Rock Auto's 5% off Coupon Code: 4B249D02D0C680 Expires: April 26, 2018

As per RA: "Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other words or numbers."

Hope that all helps & keep us in the loop as to how you get along with your project!

 

[Sean Anderson]

It does! And that’s exactly what I will do. I do have mechanical know hows I appreciate all of that info and I will start ordering stuff in the next week or so. I have a full tank now and I’ll run it down! Thanks again!!

 

[fast_dave]

It does! And that’s exactly what I will do. I do have mechanical know hows I appreciate all of that info and I will start ordering stuff in the next week or so. I have a full tank now and I’ll run it down! Thanks again!!

In my opinion:

• Put aside a full 8 hour day for this job (Saturday's good 'cause the parts stores are open - just in case).
• You'll need (4) jack stands and a good hydraulic jack to do this SAFELY.
• Get your Ex as high up as your jack stands safely allow. A small chunk of scrap 4"X4" on top of the floor jack will help you get you Ex up to the top of the limit of your jack stands.
• Without a motorcycle jack, a square piece of Plywood helps to support the tank/floor jack for Lowering & Reinstalling. You don't want to majorly dent it OR worse, punch a hole in it.
• It helps to take off the Rear DRIVER Tire to access and disconnect all of the the wires and hoses before fully lowering the tank..
• There will be a LOT of dirt and grime on top of the tank that you'll want to clean off before taking out the Fuel Pump/Sending Unit. Have a good supply of rags, parts cleaner, and disposable gloves. You don't want to get that crud in your tank!
• Compressed Air is also a plus for this job - it's pretty dirty under that area of the Ex...

Good Luck!

 

[Rhett]

What fast dave said, plus when I did it I used two jacks under the tank, each with a large flat piece of 1 foot x 1 foot x 1" think plywood on top (to help distribute the weight of the tank over the jack. The last thing you want to do is have your jack punch a hole in your tank ... not likely, but I've heard of it happening even with our tanks.

That was with about 2-3 gallons in the tank. It's amazing how heavy, and sloshy just a little gas can be.

 

[koda2000]

A Few Tips:
1) Once you remove the 2 bolts at the front of the tank, run a few strong wire-ties through the tank and mounting bracket. This will act as a hinge when lowering and raising the tank, making the job much easier and save you a bunch of time and effort.

2) Do not try to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump assembly. Instead, unbolt the assembly from the tank and carefully work it out once the rear of the tank is on the ground. Then swing the assembly over the leaf spring to replace the pump.

3) Replace the 2 sections of submersible fuel line going from the pump to the FPR and from the FPR to the fuel line output of the assembly. Use fuel injection clamps rather than the OE worm-style clamps on the hoses. If the pump you purchase doesn't come with enough submersible hose to do this make sure the hose you purchase is rated "submersible".

4) There is a 99.9% probability you will need the jumper wire to connect your new pump to the OE wiring (thin vs wide terminals), Make sure your new pump comes with the wire.

After having done this repair 6-7 times I've learned a thing or two about how to do it quickly. I now have the job down to about 1.5 hours.

 

[fast_dave]

Use fuel injection clamps rather than the OE worm-style clamps on the hoses.

I thought I did plenty of research before doing this job.

But looking back, the one thing I would do different - as Koda2000 suggests - is I would have bought (2) fuel injection style hose clamps - as opposed to using the (2) worm gear clamps as supplied in the installation kit.

Not that the worm gear clamps don't work - but it would have been a sweet detail. I'll remember it in 175,000 miles when my Ex is getting close to 400,000 Miles ;-)

At the time I was so caught up in being prepared for all the big details, that I missed that one small detail that would have been the cherry on top of the whipped cream of the installation process!

Here's what one looks like:

 

[Sean Anderson]

You all are AMAZING! Thank you so much for alll of this information!

 

[koda2000]

Here's a few more tips for you:

1) The plastic evap hose is held to the tank with a grey plastic clip that has to be squeezed to get it to release.

2) If the clamps that secure the fill and vent hoses to the tank bungs are rusted and can't be removed, carefully cut them off with a Dremel cut-off wheel and replace them with new radiator hose clamps.

3) The strap that holds up the tank in the center keys into the frame rail. Remove that strap bolt last. That way you can move the tank away from the frame to unhook the strap and get it out of your way.

4) Using a floor jack at the rear of the tank, lower it slowly so you can disconnect the various wire connections and the evap hose w/out hurting anything.

There's a reason I use the Bosch pump kits, even though they're more expensive... because they're worth it. They come with all the crap you need to do the job (except 2 additional FI clamps), they're OE quality so you should never have to do this job again.

 

[Sean Anderson]

FINALLY ordering the parts, just making sure before I submit the order that I got everything that y’all recommended.

 

[koda2000]

Yep, that should do it.

 

[Sean Anderson]

Well, ran into a problem, the fs111 fuel sock does NOT fit the fuel pump bosch 69128. The fs111 has a MUCH larger opening than the sock that was from factory. Off to autozone I guess. I assume I can return the sock to rockauto right?

 

[koda2000]

Well, ran into a problem, the fs111 fuel sock does NOT fit the fuel pump bosch 69128. The fs111 has a MUCH larger opening than the sock that was from factory. Off to autozone I guess. I assume I can return the sock to rockauto right?

View attachment 158490

View attachment 158491

I'm sorry. I must have been thinking about another strainer sock. The size that fits the 69128 pump is FS199. My mistake.