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How I changed my 05's Front Wheel Bearing

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by High_Order1, August 27, 2007.

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  1. ShawnTRD

    ShawnTRD Active Member

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    The 2 or 3 bad wheelbearing my wife had you could jack the wheel up and it was loose.
     
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  3. nmuzzatti

    nmuzzatti New Member

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    I'm a newb, but I saw this post and just wanted to remind everyone of something we forget about in our daily lives. Regarding the turning the steering wheel part, I am always reminded of my buddy's saying; "You just gotta be as smart as the thing you're working with". I'll remember your post when/if it comes time to replace my bearing(s). Thanks!
     
  4. Top Jimmy

    Top Jimmy New Member

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    Great Write Up

    Just finished LF Wheel Bearing on my '02 EB V8 4x4 with 149K on the clock. Only a few missteps, most were predictable (and avoidable) but nevertheless I am done. The most helpful information in the thread seems to be the use of the 13-15 mm offset box-end wench. Perhaps the most debated is the size of the axle nut. Mine required a deep-well 30mm.

    I have read of some who speak of the bolts backing out with ease, but most tell of pain-staking turn every step of the way. Mine was the latter. Only one of the three (the rear-lower) came out even remotely "easy" and that was after fighting every quarter turn the first half of the threads. The second, the front-lower, came out, but every turn was dreadfully forceful. But, it was the last (let's call it the top or highest) didn't loosen up and got to the point where I could no longer get the marvelous box-end on it. Tired and frustrated, I begin to think of alternatives.

    I recalled having read (here an other place) about cutting the bolts for very easy removal of the hub. I didn't fully understand the technique until I was forced to implement it. If your replacement hub included new bolts, you may want to utilize the bolt cutting method. I had great success and see no reason to use this technique - but am open for discussion should any of you voice concerns.

    The process goes like this: After loosing all three of the hub bolts, you should be able to separate the hub from the knuckle. This is because there are no threads in the knuckle, only in the hub. Once you establish a gap between the knuckle and hub flange, you can actually see the bolt - this is where to cut. When you cut the bolt between the hub and knuckle, one half of the bolt (with threads) remains in the old hub which does not matter since it is scrap anyway. But, because it is not threaded, the other half of the bolt can be easily pushed out through the back of the knuckle. I used a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade and was through the bolt in the less than a minute.

    If anyone else has used this method, I would like to hear of your success or failure. Just reply or PM me.
     
  5. apanepinto

    apanepinto New Member

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    I feel your pain

     
  6. unc25

    unc25 New Member

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    Ok well lets start off by saying Thank You to the OP and the other contributors!

    I would like to mention that I have a 2wd so things were a little easier for me. I needed to replace the driver's side hub and did a ton of research, but was in a time crunch so I decided to go with a hub from my local advance auto parts store (less than 2 mins away). I started looking online and noticed that they were having a sale so I picked up the National brand hub for $160 in store.

    From everything I read online, the national brand hub was supposed to be American made, but the box and the hub are clearly stamped made in China...maybe I got had. Part numbers and everything matched up. Came with the ABS sensor attached and new bolts with the infamous yellow threadlock applied.

    Let me note that it was 10 degrees outside and I wanted to start early to give me plenty of time.
    Removal was pretty straight forward...the bearing bolts were tough, but nothing like the problems you guys experienced. Upon attaching the new bearing I noticed one thing that may pose a problem to others....The bearing bolts that came in the box are 16mm and the caliper bolts are 18mm....The factory bolts that I removed were all 15mm (bearing and caliper). Unfortunately I reused the caliper mounting bolts, after I cleaned them up and re-applied anti-seize. I just couldnt find the 18mm socket or wrech any where!

    2 things that were extremely helpful during the removal were the RUBBER MALLET and PB Blaster! Just adding my 2 cents here.
     
  7. nygbrad

    nygbrad Active Member

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    Has anyone bought a wheel bearing from 1AAuto? I replaced the LF about 6 months ago and it seems to be making noise again. I haven't had time to check everything out yet but was concerned about the brand they sell. It has a 2 year warranty so I am not worried about getting another one.
     
  8. fusseli

    fusseli Active Member

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    02 Mounty

    Spent today doing my driver's side. Now no more grinding in left turns! Did my front pads and rotors at the same time, too. Used the Motorcraft kit that comes with new bolts, so we just cut the hub bolts as someone else suggested after getting about 1/4" of seperation from the knuckle (used a sawzall). The bolts were tough to turn, but not unmanageable. Coated them in liquid wrench a week before and also used the offset boxends from Harbor Freight, both helped a lot. My axle nuts are the 29mm, they were cake to loosten and torque down with a breaker bar and 3ft cheater.

    Had a pretty big snag though, the axle was seized solid into the bearing. The crappy parts-store loaner 3-jaw puller would slip off as soon as I started really torquing it, nobody in town seemed to have the "FWD" hub puller that bolts on with the lugs. Tried some pounding with a rubber mallet and tried the slide-hammer type of hub puller but got nowhere, and was afraid of damaging the axle or diff. Wasted a couple hours trying different things. Finally, got a giant 3-jaw puller from a friend of a friend who's a mechanic for an excavation company. Took 2 minutes to press the axle out with that thing, the axle would kind of pop along with each good turn-- which took a decent amount of torque. The splines were covered in rust, the black RTV Ford decided to cake on the hub didn't do jack to keep that from happening.

    The hub overall really wasn't that bad of a job, wouldn't have taken us more than an hour total even with the seized axle-- if we'd have had a good puller from the start. The cutting of the 3 hub bolts is definately the speedy and pain-free way to go, provided that you got a kit with new bolts. The only thing that I wasn't able to do proper was get my torque wrench onto the 3 hub bolts themselves. Both of us grunted on them as best we could and called it good.
     
    Last edited: December 17, 2010
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  9. forcemac

    forcemac New Member

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    If i were to order the TIMKENs from Rockauto, how do I get the bolts? Assuming they don't come with the kit, since they are not pictured.

    I am USAF, living in Britain, and I need to make sure I have all the pieces before I do this. I wanted to order the OEM kit from ford, but I had my father stop by his local dealership and they want $290 a piece for these things...

    Anyone order this TIMKENS from Rock Auto?
     
  10. 10grw

    10grw New Member

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    Forcemac,
    I bought 2 Timken Front-end assemblies from e-bay member 'discountautoparts' for $127.74 each - SP470200. Ordered last Friday 10.30am arrived next day 2.30pm. I installed both yesterday and everything is running great and no ABS light! That's after replacing the original hubs with Chinese-made hubs also bought from an e-bay member 10 months/10,000 miles ago. Yesterday went a lot quicker than the first time, though it's really just following the advice of the guys on this forum. Without them I wouldn't have tried it.
    Also, bought a Pressure Transducer ($23) switch from Rockauto last Friday thinking that might solve the ABS light problem - still waiting for delivery.
    None of my hubs came with new bolts , so just cleaned and reused old ones - everything went smooth. Hope this helps. All the best.
     
  11. fusseli

    fusseli Active Member

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    If I do the other front on my Mounty I'll for sure be buying the Motorcraft hub again (got mine from Rockauto also). The new bolts offer good piece of mind and allow for cutting of old bolts for fast removal.
     
  12. Oldwolf

    Oldwolf Active Member

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    Best price on the Timken SP470200 Front Hub Assembly that I have found is about $125 shipped from StockWiseAuto on Ebay. These do not come with the three bolts.

    The "BOLT FRONT HUB" is Ford part #1L2Z1107AA and at SilverStateFordParts they are $6.64 a piece, $52.79 with shipping for 6.

    Their price for the the Ford OEM hub assembly (with bolts - I verified this) is $188.22, $423.50 for 2 with shipping.

    I need both front hubs so I am going to order soon, once I figure out if I can get the bolts cheaper somewhere.

    Bottom line is:
    $250 for two hubs from StockWiseAuto
    $53 for the bolts from Ford.

    About $303 for Timken Hubs and Ford bolts.

    This is the best I can find for OEM parts...so far.
     
  13. fusseli

    fusseli Active Member

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    Also note that the Ford hub kit comes with 2 new caliper bolts in addition to the 3 hub ones.
     
  14. Oldwolf

    Oldwolf Active Member

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    What part number did you order from RockAuto? Did the 3 bolts come with it? I see something called a MOTORCRAFT Part # HUB67 for $167. Is that it?
     
  15. fusseli

    fusseli Active Member

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    Ya that's the one. Comes with 5 new bolts, 2 for the brake caliper and the 3 for the hub.
     
  16. Oldwolf

    Oldwolf Active Member

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    OK then. It was described as a "kit" so that threw me off.

    RockAuto is $344.45 with shipping for two. That sounds the best so far.
     
  17. fusseli

    fusseli Active Member

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    Haha the bolts must make it a kit! Another advantage of the Ford kit is that the bolts come with the yellow threadlocker already applied, not sure if they would or not if they were purchased seperately.
     
  18. Oldwolf

    Oldwolf Active Member

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    And 4L2Z1104AA appears to be the part number for the front hub for the 4x4. 4L2Z1109AA is the rear hub.
     
    Last edited: December 30, 2010
  19. IAmTodd

    IAmTodd 4x Explorer Veteran

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    I'm working on replacing the passenger front in my '03. I got the hub nut off and the 3 retaining bolts off with little drama. I was thankful for that after reading some posts. The hub seems to be seized to the knuckle though. I've tried using a sledge hammer, crow bar (pretty much took the bed out of it) but it will not even wiggle. I have it soaking in PB Blaster now but I don't think that is going to help much.

    Do you guys have any suggestions on how to get it out?
     
  20. xlt03

    xlt03 Elite Explorer

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    Did you use the puller? Flange has 3 holes that attaches to the lug bolts and the center pressure screws pushes against the axle shaft. The net effect is the shaft gets pushed towards the motor. I believe you can "rent" it from Autozone, O'Reilly's. If you used a sledgehammer and went to town by banging it inwards you may have damaged the CV joint if yours is a 4WD. Keep us posted.
     
  21. IAmTodd

    IAmTodd 4x Explorer Veteran

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    The half shaft easily tapped out with a small hammer, I doubt I put enough force on it to damage the CVs. It slide freely on the splines now. The half inch or so that sticks out of the back of the bearing seems to be stuck in the knuckle though. I haven't checked on it this morning but hopefully the PB Blaster did something last night.
     

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