IAC, TPS, Vacuum Leak?

[Turdle]

www.rockauto.com
1997 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L 302cid V8 MFI (P) OHV : Emission : EGR Line Wiki Price
DORMAN Part # 598111 {#F77Z9D477AB}


$28.79

 

[gavin]

yeah, I knew the EGR tube was gonna need to get replaced. Thing has been "ticking" sit I bought it 6-7 years ago now.

there's a lot of lovin my truck needs lol

 

[SkyJumper]

Ahh, that was a fast replacement. Have you started it yet? And where you able to cap that fitting off and see if that was your culprit?

 

[gavin]

Ahh, that was a fast replacement. Have you started it yet? And where you able to cap that fitting off and see if that was your culprit?

nope, not yet.
Called it quits around 8:30pm or so. Still have to hook up the coils, throttle cable, and a few other things.
Needed to take a break; all that bending/leaning forward has worse out my leg muscles.

Not sure I have any caps, so I'll have to see if I have some spare rubber hose and just plug it with a bolt or something temporarily.
Any idea what size hose? 3/8"?

 

[gavin]

welp, hopefully I'll get done this weekend.
reinstalling the EGR tube onto the exhaust manifold and whaddya know, it breaks in another spot.
now to try and find somewhere with one in stock today... ugh.
then of course had to remove the damn manifold again to disconnect the tube from the EGR valve.

I did manage to find a hose to fit on the one vacuum connector with the manifold still installed.... hah

 

[gavin]

worth it to go ahead and replace the EGR valve too, while I'm at it?
not sure what the failure rate is like on those, or what kind of issues a failure could/would cause.

 

[Turdle]

worth it to go ahead and replace the EGR valve too, while I'm at it?
not sure what the failure rate is like on those, or what kind of issues a failure could/would cause.

If vacuum is applied to it and it moves , while holding vacuum, I would use the old one. You might clean it out a bit but it should be ok.

 

[gavin]

If vacuum is applied to it and it moves , while holding vacuum, I would use the old one. You might clean it out a bit but it should be ok.

sweet, thanks.
now to go take a couple mile walk to Napa and back.
woo exercise.

 

[gavin]

well, she's all buttoned up.
while at Napa I grabbed some vacuum plugs, but of course forgot to replace my hose with a bolt threaded in it with one. Can't do that now, that hose is on there good.

just got the ECM disconnected to let it reset.
crossing my fingers and gonna go see what happens with the junk in a bit.

just need a good break; my legs are so sore.
too much leaning forward.

 

[Turdle]

If I am understanding correctly you put a hose on the bare vacuum port, but it isn't plugged?

Won't that still leak vacuum?

 

[gavin]

If I am understanding correctly you put a hose on the bare vacuum port, but it isn't plugged?

Won't that still leak vacuum?

no, I threaded a bolt into the end of the hose :

 

[Turdle]

Ok sorry i butted in, carry on/

 

[gavin]

well she runs.
idle was at about 1200 for a minute or so, then dropped down to around 1000.
Figure that is due to low coolant/engine temp and the ECM having to re-learn. Correct?

No more exhaust tick.

No whining or the like.

Will do a bit of driving tomorrow and see how it goes, but it's looking promising!

 

[SkyJumper]

Figure that is due to low coolant/engine temp and the ECM having to re-learn. Correct?

Disconnecting the ECU is not a proper reset you should either use a hand held scanning tool to reset the CEL's or disconnect the negative battery terminal for a minute or two. If it is still at 1000 rpm's, then it did not reset or the fault is still there. There is no such thing as re-learn with the ECU. It will instantly read running conditions, but after a 20 miles of driving and the ECU trying to correct a fault, if it can not, it throws a CEL. So if you are at start up at 1200 rpm, then drops to 1000 rpm, something is not right. It should be at 1000 rpm at start up and then drop to 750-725 rpm's.

 

[SkyJumper]

Have you rechecked all the vac hook ups and make sure you have everything hooked up and the IAC and TPS MAP sensors are hooked back up? And do you still hear the loud hiss on the D/S?

 

[gavin]

Disconnecting the ECU is not a proper reset you should either use a hand held scanning tool to reset the CEL's or disconnect the negative battery terminal for a minute or two. If it is still at 1000 rpm's, then it did not reset or the fault is still there. There is no such thing as re-learn with the ECU. It will instantly read running conditions, but after a 20 miles of driving and the ECU trying to correct a fault, if it can not, it throws a CEL. So if you are at start up at 1200 rpm, then drops to 1000 rpm, something is not right. It should be at 1000 rpm at start up and then drop to 750-725 rpm's.

disconnecting the ECM for a good 30+ minutes would be sufficient for the capacitors to lose all their voltage, causing the ECM to lose all learned settings and codes, no? CEL is no longer on, so it obviously cleared that.

Have you rechecked all the vac hook ups and make sure you have everything hooked up and the IAC and TPS MAP sensors are hooked back up? And do you still hear the loud hiss on the D/S?

no hiss or whine.

And as I said, RPM started at around 1200 RPM for a minute or so then dropped down to 1000.
1000 is MUCH lower than it was previously.
With the leak, it was idling at over 2000 in park.

 

[Turdle]

Get all the air burped out well, let it run till warm and then it will idle down and start to dial in the perimeters.

You'll hear when the thermostat opens, as it will idle down quite a bit.

 

[gavin]

P1401 - Diff Pres Feedback EGR Circuit High Input

in drive, stopped, idle is around 900.
idle in N or P is around 1000.

 

[Turdle]

Swap the dpfe hoses around.

 

[gavin]

Swap the dpfe hoses around.

those would be the hoses that go to the EGR tube, correct?