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My 2001 Ranger Edge 4x4 Supercab

Discussion in 'Ford Ranger - Mazda B-Series Forum' started by 4pointslow, May 26, 2018.

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    1. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      Wiring takes quite a bit of time for remote starts on older cars with no premade harnesses.
      Then when you add new and old technologies together it takes even more time to make sure it will all work together. I am using an old Code Alarm system with a slightly newer Fortin key bypass unit.

      After getting the first two main harnesses installed, I inserted a jumper wire across the starter interrupt circuit to make sure it still starts. In case of emergency I can still start run and drive the truck before finishing the install.

      IMG_2304.JPG IMG_2307.JPG IMG_2311.JPG
       
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    3. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      Nice and clean, as always
       
    4. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      How did you access the main wires, at the ignition switch?

      I installed a remote starter in my 95 Crown Vic about 15 years ago. I first tried to plug the wires into a home made connector harness I made from a cut pigtail of another car. Those didn't connect securely, so I finally relented and carefully stripped the insulation back, and soldered to the main wires. That has worked well since I did that. But later I found "T" harnesses which can be bought for most cars. Those just plug in between the factory connector and the ignition switch, leaving a set of wires that are made to use for a remote starter or alarm.
       
    5. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      I used a couple T harnesses on my two 1998 Explorers, they are great!
      Sad thing is I couldn't find them this time around, couldn't find one for my 2004 Ex either.
      Pep Boys used to have them in stock, on the shelf. LOL. Man have times changed.

      I took the connector cover off the back, the terminal lock off the face, slid a pin down the hole to unlock the terminal and pulled them out one at a time to solder to them.
      I use a wire stripper to cut the insulation at two places and a razor blade to slice the insulation long ways, them pull that piece of insulation off.
      Then I wrap the wire to be added around the clean uncut copper, then solder it with a 230 watt soldering iron.
      After that I slip heat shrink around the wires from the terminal end (the reason I remove terminals from connectors) and push it up to the solder connection and heat it up with a grill lighter to shrink it. Sometimes I add a little electrical tape too.

      The picture of the ignition switch is with all the wires added already, if you look close at one end you will see one wire with heat shrink sticking out.
      All the others are hidden really well, and protected by that plastic back cover.

      I am really very finicky when it comes to installing remote starts because I want to install them once and not have to mess with them again.
      My two 1998's have about 10 years on them, no problems.

      I am still working on the install, 3 days into it so far. May finish this weekend. LOL
       
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    6. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Excellent. That's just how I soldered to my wires on the 95 CV, remove a section of insulation, solder to the unhurt wires. I don't think I used heat shrink though, I believe I left the terminals in place and made the splices back a few inches. It works though, I just hate to attach to original wires if possible. My 99 has about eight soldered splices in each door, for two relays each to control the windows. That took some thought, and a bunch of spare wiring terminals.
       
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    7. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      I have been smelling coolant since I bought this truck.
      I decided to replace the hoses, pump, and thermostat housing just as maintenance and because I don't want to replace them in the winter.
      Still was intermittently smelling coolant afterwards.

      I am happy to say I finally found the leak. It is on the front side of the radiator between the radiator and condenser, at the seam where the tank meets the core.
      I already picked up a Carquest radiator from Advance Auto and plan to install it this coming weekend.
       
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    8. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      The radiator is installed.
      I am not impressed with the quality.
      There is a large gap between the radiator and the fan shroud at the top and bottom.
      The original radiator didn't have this gap because it had a double wide aluminum bracket even though the core is only 1 inch wide.
      Also the radiator to support mounting holes had plastic shoulders in the rubber isolators, instead of metal ones like the original did. I swapped the metal ones over to the new radiator.
      We will see if it holds up.


      IMG_2361.JPG IMG_2369.JPG
       
    9. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      Thanks for posting this. Hopefully you don't have to come up with something to cover those open areas to increase cooling.
      Carquest gets a big X
       
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    10. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      Back on post 69 I posted a video of my alternator light coming on when going hard on the throttle.
      I could have used a voltmeter or something to check battery voltage but decided to do it with the Factory scan tool.
      Here is a screenshot showing the voltage is dropping out. Drops down to around 12.18
      When it is not acting up it is around 13.98 to 14.06
      Further testing required.

      Alternator drop out.jpg
       
    11. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      keep posting findings on the alt. i never was able to figure out why i also have a low charging issue with mine
       
    12. delexploder

      delexploder Elite Explorer

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      Stupid question but are you guys running a factory pully
       
    13. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      I will, does your charging light come on?
       
    14. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      As far as I know my 2001 Ranger alternator is stock or a stock replacement if the alternator was replaced.
       
    15. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      nope. i cant remember how low the voltage drops at idle, but its low enough all the lights dim at a stop light and the gauge almost bottoms out, but i do remember it wont go higher then around 13.5 ish when the rmps are above 1100
       
    16. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      Tim, I'm surprised you don't keep throwing the dreaded cam position code. I have to keep my idle higher than I would like to keep my voltage up, or I get that code. It seems like the v8's are prone to that.
       
    17. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      Might start a thread on it one day. For now, let’s not clutter up 4pointslow’s thread with off topic posts
      Sorry John
       
    18. boominXplorer

      boominXplorer Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      On the radiator note the 95-97 v6 and 96-98 v8 trucks use a 2 core rad factory and switched to a 1 core in 1998. The older radiators are backwards compatible and swap right in.

      On the alternator isn't the stock ranger unit 90a or 110a? Where the explorer one is 130a and bolts right in. You probably have an extra running around as many v6 explorers you have.
       
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    19. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      So after searching online for a while, I found that many are upgrading their 90-95 amp alternators to 130 amp.
      I had a 3rd gen 95 amp in my Ranger so I wanted to upgrade and at the same time see if it was just a bad alternator causing my battery light to come on at higher RPM's when mashing the gas pedal.

      My 2004 Explorer has a 130 amp 3rd gen alternator and I have a spare for it so I installed it on my Ranger.
      The charging system stays at around 13.43 now, even at WOT. The light doesn't come on anymore either. (see picture below)
      Safe to say the old alternator was the problem.

      So I want to buy a 130 amp alternator to have as a spare for my 2004 Explorer and 2001 Ranger.
      They both have different part numbers though, so which one do I get?
      I will add that the 2004 charging system is controlled by the PCM, 2001 Ranger is not.
      My guess is I should go with the 2004 Explorer Alternator since it is working in the Ranger with no problems.

      Alternator not droping out.jpg
       
      Last edited: August 10, 2018
    20. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      LOL I posted a little too slow.
       
    21. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      Also, the two 1998 Explorers I own have 2nd gen alternators so they wont work.
      The 2004 I own did work. LOL
       
    22. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      I just bought a new (not reman) alternator from PepBoys.
      Part number 7768602N
      Internet special said 25% off, retailed for 164.99
      41.25 off
      only 5.00 core and I am not returning one
      Total with tax was 137.27

      Got the right 130 amp one for a 2001 Ranger,
      I didn't want to take a chance using the 2004 Explorer one permanently because it is supposed to be PCM controlled, and the Ranger one was even less expensive from PepBoys.

      2004 Explorer diagram is top picture below
      Bottom picture below is 2001 Ranger

      2004 Ex Alt.jpg 2001 Ranger Alt.jpg
       
      Last edited: August 10, 2018
    23. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      The correct 130 amp alternator is installed.
      The connection for the large cable was a different configuration being on the back, but worked.
      The pulley was a little bigger and made the serpentine belt fit better too.

      IMG_2421.JPG
       
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    24. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      Checked the voltage again to make sure it was working and it is.
      The alternator does whine a little. Hope it lasts.

      130 amp Ranger alternator.jpg
       
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    25. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      Today I changed the oil on the Ranger and installed a Fumoto Valve on this vehicle too.
      Also noticed the BJ that the previous owner had installed has a rotting boot now.
      I took a picture of the BJ from Moog that I installed too for comparison, the boot is integral on the Moog BJ.
      There was also a piece of trash stuck in the knuckle, LOL.

      IMG_2718.JPG

      IMG_2719.JPG

      IMG_2720.JPG
       

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