Power Door Lock/Remote/Door Ajar Light Issue

[jtgt350]

OK, I haven't found anyone listing this same issue, just close to it, so I'm in need of help.

2002 Explorer XLT - Power door locks stopped working, remotes do nothing, keypad on door does nothing. My "Door Ajar" light is on, but the puddle lights/interior dome lights don't light up when doors (any door) is opened. The radio and power works for about 9 minutes (then times out and turns off) once the engine is turned off even though the key is removed (so it is thinking the doors are all still closed even though the door ajar light is on when the truck is running). The door lock switches do not work at all on either door from inside at all.

I checked all wiring harnesses, fuses and found no broken wires or loose grounds, checked all door switches (including the rear hatch and rear glass switches) and found nothing wrong with any of them. I tried the WD-40 soaking of all switches with no help.

At this point it is just annoying to not be able to use the remote to unlock any door and we have to manually lock and unlock each door. Luckily the lights (interior and puddle lights on mirrors) are not staying on like other posts have stated - mine won't turn on at all. Everything else works fine (mirrors, defroster, windows, etc.)

 

[BigRondo]

Welcome to the forum!

I had similar electrical issues with my 02 xlt. The dome lights would stay on until the battery saver feature turned them off, the driver side puddle light didn't work, the keypad on the door would set off the alarm when I pressed it, the door ajar light would flash and beep at highway speeds, the radio would shut off as soon as I turned the key off, etc. Most recently all 4 windows stopped working.

A lot of electrical issues can be traced back to broken/damaged wire(s) in the boot between the body and the driver's door. I found 2 broken wires and repaired them and all is back to normal!

Could also be related to the door ajar switch.

Here is a great thread for removing the door panel and checking/replacing the door ajar switch, thanks to borland for the awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249253

Here is the thread for removing the door panel: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=303524

That is a great write up.

On a side note, before going through a complete replacement of the switch, you can spray WD40 into the door latch opening on each door, as these become stuck sometimes....and this can alleviate the issue.

This worked for me, after going for more than a year of the "door ajar" light coming on occasionally...mainly after a car wash, high humidity, or rain....making me unable to lock/arm the vehicle from the door keypad and keeping the dome lights on. Worth a try....it worked for me

Here is a great thread for checking for broken/damaged wires, thanks to synyster for this awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=270081

I recommend taking your time when looking for broken/damaged wires. They can be hard to find. When you think you are done looking, look again. A bright flashlight can be a big help.

Hope this helps out. :biggthump

 

[Cjpooch]

I hope you have that on copy and paste Rondo! You help out a lot of people with this issue

 

[synyster]

Lol I'm starting to think he does! It seems this is like the number one issue that people seem to have with the 3rd Gens and the funny thing is how a one or two wires can cause a million problems.

 

[BigRondo]

I hope you have that on copy and paste Rondo! You help out a lot of people with this issue

Lol I'm starting to think he does! It seems this is like the number one issue that people seem to have with the 3rd Gens and the funny thing is how a one or two wires can cause a million problems.

Oh yeah, it's a full blown copy and paste operation. Couldn't have done any of it without synyster's awesome write up for fixing the wires.

Happy St. Patty's

 

[jtgt350]

I checked the wires again and found nothing. Should I go as far as un-taping the entire bundle of wires?

 

[Cjpooch]

Yes I would. Like Rondo said it's almost always a broken wire in that location, and they can be difficult to find. Go wire by wire, take your time and be patient.

 

[my1zamboni]

I had a hard time finding one of the wires.
I ended up taking out the speaker (using the magnet, just stick it to the door) then shine a flash light in the speaker hole, up through the rubber boot, and play with the wires one at a time. I happened to be able to see the end of one of the broken wires.
I too had a bunch of the same issues you describe and the broken wires fixed it all.

 

[jtgt350]

OK, I took the time to remove all of the tape on the wires, and checked each wire carefully and found no broken wires at all. I removed all the tape from the boot (which I even slid all the way into the door, then back again) to the switches in the doors, and wire by wire didn't find a single break anywhere.

I read someplace there is a module that controls the remotes/lock/door ajar/courtesy lights which sometimes fails and can only be replaced by the Dealer by re-programming the new one to match the vehicle (at a cost of like $400+). I am only inconvenienced by this right now (and don't want to/can't afford to spend hundreds to fix this), but would like to fix it before it becomes more of an issue.

Any more suggestions? Could it be something as simple as a blown fuse? (I can't find a fuse for the door locks listed in the owner's manual). Would I need to check the other door (passenger side) for a break in a wire? I have checked every single door switch and they all seem to be functioning properly (resistance changes as the plunger is pressed).

 

[BigRondo]

If you are convinced that you have no broken/damaged wires, then I would check every fuse in the fuse panel under the dash and the power distribution box under the hood.

Here are the wiring diagrams for the door lock system. I apologize for the size, but I wanted you to be able to read them. One diagram is for the early 2002 models, and one is for the late 2002 models. Look at the top of the diagrams for fuse locations and amperage. You can also use these diagrams for testing for power at the switches with a meter.

 

[jtgt350]

Thanks for the schematic, hopefully it will help. I don't see a fuse labeled in the manual for the power door locks at all. Where is the Central Security Module located? I was thinking of simply checking the ground wire there first (good idea?). I was definitely getting no voltage to the driver's power door lock switch.

Also- Does this module control the "door ajar" light on the dash as well as the timer to cut the power to the radio/windows once the ignition is off?

Sorry for all the questions- I'm no certified tech, but trying my best to figure this out on my own. Just frustrating that the door ajar light is on, yet it also thinks all the doors are closed when they're not - doesn't make sense to me.

 

[krb0212]

jtgt350,

Did you resolve this issue with the door ajar?

I am having what sounds like the exact same issue. Long story short it has been a nightmare so far dealing with the Ford dealer. I took the vehicle in for transmission work and when I got it back, I had the problem you are describing. Not accusing, but saying, quite a coincidence.

Anyway, the dealer greased the latches on all doors and lift gates which did nothing. I have no confidence in them.

My regular mechanic did the scan and was getting an error on the driver side door. Power lock on that door does not work, door ajar stays on, key in ignition bell rings when door is shut. Key pad on door does not work. Takes longer for the lights to shut off after leaving and locking the vehicle.

He replaced the door sensor switch in the driver door. Did not fix it. He traced it back to a security module in the rear passenger side of the vehicle. When he removed that module, things seemed to work ok (except for security features). Put it back in, reproduced the problem. He tested the module and the currents and ordered a new module. They put the module in and it needed to be reprogrammed. He had to take that to a dealer to do. I just got it back at the end of the day and need to bring it back tomorrow morning to have the panels put back on but bottom line is I still have the problem. Now I am not sure if something else needs to be reconnected still but it looks to me like the module is in place. This has been very frustrating.

Have you had any luck getting it fixed?

 

[BigRondo]

jtgt350,

Did you resolve this issue with the door ajar?

I am having what sounds like the exact same issue. Long story short it has been a nightmare so far dealing with the Ford dealer. I took the vehicle in for transmission work and when I got it back, I had the problem you are describing. Not accusing, but saying, quite a coincidence.

Anyway, the dealer greased the latches on all doors and lift gates which did nothing. I have no confidence in them.

My regular mechanic did the scan and was getting an error on the driver side door. Power lock on that door does not work, door ajar stays on, key in ignition bell rings when door is shut. Key pad on door does not work. Takes longer for the lights to shut off after leaving and locking the vehicle.

He replaced the door sensor switch in the driver door. Did not fix it. He traced it back to a security module in the rear passenger side of the vehicle. When he removed that module, things seemed to work ok (except for security features). Put it back in, reproduced the problem. He tested the module and the currents and ordered a new module. They put the module in and it needed to be reprogrammed. He had to take that to a dealer to do. I just got it back at the end of the day and need to bring it back tomorrow morning to have the panels put back on but bottom line is I still have the problem. Now I am not sure if something else needs to be reconnected still but it looks to me like the module is in place. This has been very frustrating.

Have you had any luck getting it fixed?

Did you search for broken/damaged wires as outlined in post #2?

 

[krb0212]

I told the mechanic what I saw in these threads and one of the things I don't know if he did was check the wires. So he is pulling the boot today to check the wiring in the driver door. The scan codes are pointing to the driver door. As with other poster's complaints, roll the dome/dash light switch to off and the door ajar does not occur. I will post if there is a resolution too.

 

[BigRondo]

Thanks, and good luck!

 

[04Limited]

Folks,

Use the guidance of Rondo and Synyster. I took my door panel off and checked the wiring 3 times. Found a different wire two of those times. Going on 3 weeks and 1000 miles with the problem hopefully resolved.

Can't stress enough, check, re-check, and check again. Mine were a large black, assuming ground, and a small yellow with green stripe.

Thanks Rondo and Synyster
04Limited

 

[krb0212]

Thanks Rondo, the final solution, after lubricating the latches, then replacing the driver side door sensor, and replacing the security module in the 2005 Explorer, was a broken wire in the driver door. Everything appears to be working except now for one thing.

The driver side door can only be locked manually. The switch works to lock and unlock all doors except driver door. The remote keyless entry locks and unlocks all doors except the driver door. The keypad (which BTW, the new security module needed to be programmed when it was installed), locks all doors except driver door. When I am unlocking with the keypad, the driver door does not unlock. Pressing the last number of the keycode unlocks all doors and opens the liftgate (in the old security module it just unlocked the doors but did not open the liftgate). Could the security module have been programmed incorrectly or do I have a driver lock issue that is affecting all of this?

 

[jtgt350]

I still have not resolved the problem. I checked the wires in both doors, and even testes them from the fuse box to the other end for continuity one by one, and didn't find a single broken wire. Brought it to the mechanic who checked all the wires again, finding nothing. He thinks it is also the module, which he would send to the dealer for replacement and re-programming, estimated about $400 or so. I will live with the problem for now as that is way too much for me to pay for an inconveinence.

 

[BigRondo]

Folks,

Use the guidance of Rondo and Synyster. I took my door panel off and checked the wiring 3 times. Found a different wire two of those times. Going on 3 weeks and 1000 miles with the problem hopefully resolved.

Can't stress enough, check, re-check, and check again. Mine were a large black, assuming ground, and a small yellow with green stripe.

Thanks Rondo and Synyster
04Limited

Sometimes you can learn a lot from a dummy (me). :

Thanks Rondo, the final solution, after lubricating the latches, then replacing the driver side door sensor, and replacing the security module in the 2005 Explorer, was a broken wire in the driver door. Everything appears to be working except now for one thing.

The driver side door can only be locked manually. The switch works to lock and unlock all doors except driver door. The remote keyless entry locks and unlocks all doors except the driver door. The keypad (which BTW, the new security module needed to be programmed when it was installed), locks all doors except driver door. When I am unlocking with the keypad, the driver door does not unlock. Pressing the last number of the keycode unlocks all doors and opens the liftgate (in the old security module it just unlocked the doors but did not open the liftgate). Could the security module have been programmed incorrectly or do I have a driver lock issue that is affecting all of this?

I believe you have an issue with the driver's door lock. Let me know if you plan on troubleshooting this problem. I have the shop manuals and will help all I can.

I still have not resolved the problem. I checked the wires in both doors, and even testes them from the fuse box to the other end for continuity one by one, and didn't find a single broken wire. Brought it to the mechanic who checked all the wires again, finding nothing. He thinks it is also the module, which he would send to the dealer for replacement and re-programming, estimated about $400 or so. I will live with the problem for now as that is way too much for me to pay for an inconveinence.

Thanks for the update. If you would like to troubleshoot this further, let me know. This post by you leads me to believe that you have broken/damaged wire(s).

Thanks for the schematic, hopefully it will help. I don't see a fuse labeled in the manual for the power door locks at all. Where is the Central Security Module located? I was thinking of simply checking the ground wire there first (good idea?). I was definitely getting no voltage to the driver's power door lock switch.

Also- Does this module control the "door ajar" light on the dash as well as the timer to cut the power to the radio/windows once the ignition is off?

Sorry for all the questions- I'm no certified tech, but trying my best to figure this out on my own. Just frustrating that the door ajar light is on, yet it also thinks all the doors are closed when they're not - doesn't make sense to me.

 

[jtgt350]

OK, I checked every single wire again and again, and didn't find any broken wire(s) at all. I am getting no power to the power door lock switches at all (Driver and Passenger sides). I took it to the local mechanic and he also checked the wires and found no broken wires. He thinks it is the module that needs replacing, and told me I would have to bring it to the dealer since they have to reprogram it for it to work properly. He did tell me it would be very costly too, which is not what I wanted to hear.

I don't have the money to spend on this right now (and since it only affects the door locks and remote alarm, I can live with it for now.). Is there anything else I can check to make sure it is the module? How do I get to the module? Is there any way to bypass this so I can use my remote door locks?

Thanks to everyone for their advice and suggestions!.