Power Locks (only) stopped working

[mjamesb80]

Went to work today and power locks would not lock when I got out.

I tried both driver and passenger sides, nothing.

Also, I noticed that I had the radio on, turned the vehicle off, opened the door (usually at this point the radio would shut off), radio stayed on.

Power windows, seats, mirrors, dome lights, all work.

I read a lot of posts in the forum, but none with the exact same issue.
I checked the fuses, no issue there.
I quickly pulled out the wires in the door jam and they look pretty good. (I didn't look real deep into this until I hear from you guys.)
I would hate to spend money buying a GEM module if that won't fix the problem.

 

[BigRondo]

I had similar electrical issues with my 02 xlt. The dome lights would stay on until the battery saver feature turned them off, the accessory delay wasn't working, the driver side puddle light didn't work, the keypad on the door would set off the alarm when I pressed it, the door ajar light would flash and beep at highway speeds, the radio would shut off as soon as I turned the key off, etc. Most recently all 4 windows stopped working.

A lot of electrical issues can be traced back to broken/damaged wire(s) in the boot between the body and the driver's door. I found 2 broken wires and repaired them. The thin black ground wire was broken and after repairing it all was back to normal. When the windows stopped working, I repaired the thick black ground wire and the windows now work like a champ.

Here is the thread for removing the door panel: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=303524

Here is a great thread for checking for broken/damaged wires, thanks to synyster for this awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=270081

Be sure to take your time when looking for broken/damaged wire(s). Check all the wires for breaks/damage. When you think you're done looking, look again, and again, and again. A bright flashlight can be very helpful.

If you don't find any broken/damaged wires, look again. Be patient. They can be hard to find.

I have the shop manuals for the 2002, so let me know if you need any info on troubleshooting the door locks.

Hope this helps out! :biggthump

 

[mjamesb80]

Do u mean the wire is split in half? Would I just choose a black wire for instance and tug on it a bit? If it is weak then it will come on out?

 

[mjamesb80]

I think a found a break in the wire. It only looks like the black wire cover was broken. The copper inside looks like it is still intact. Is this the problem?

How exactly do I fix it?

 

[BigRondo]

Check my earlier post. It contains a link for checking and repairing the wires.

 

[quandary]

If the copper is not broken, you can use electrical tape to insulate the copper. It's possible that the exposed copper was coming into contact with other metal and causing a short.

If you know where the black wire is supposed to connect to, you can also take a connectivity tester at the exposed copper to trace back to the fuse panel and then to the motor switch. This will ensure that you have no other breaks in that particular wire.

 

[BigRondo]

I think a found a break in the wire. It only looks like the black wire cover was broken. The copper inside looks like it is still intact. Is this the problem?

How exactly do I fix it?

If the copper is not broken, you can use electrical tape to insulate the copper. It's possible that the exposed copper was coming into contact with other metal and causing a short.

If you know where the black wire is supposed to connect to, you can also take a connectivity tester at the exposed copper to trace back to the fuse panel and then to the motor switch. This will ensure that you have no other breaks in that particular wire.

Good advice from quandary!

Let me know if you need the wiring diagram for the power locks. With the diagram you will have a better idea of what wires are for the locks, and it will help in the troubleshooting process.

 

[mjamesb80]

Update 9/28/11

I have an update.

Have been just living with manually locking doors.

I also always have my headlights set to the autolamp setting so I don't have to mess with it. Figured out that my tail lights were no longer working with the autolamp headlights. BUT, all lights (even dash lights) work when I turn the highlights to the ON position instead of autolamp.

Today I left the lights on when I got out of the vehicle. Had to get someone to jump me off. Now, my automatic locks are back, the autolamp has all the lights coming on again, but my AC is acting up.

The AC will run warm at idle and then get cold when I start going again. Anyone have an idea about this new AC issue? Another crazy electrical issue?

I had Autozone check the battery and it is fine.

 

[BigRondo]

Can't help you on the A/C.

The problem with the lights might be the headlight switch or the Multifunction Switch (MFS). Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in. If you do decide to change the MFS: Click here for the instructions!

Good luck, sorry I couldn't be more help.

 

[mjamesb80]

Thanks for trying BigR!

Things that are working:

My AC is back to normal.

My radio goes off when I open the door now.

All lights seem to work properly now.

Power locks work again.

Not working:
1. door keypad will lock the doors when pressing the two numbers at the same time, but the code will now work to unlock. I have the original code from the security module.
2. I get no reaction from the old key fob.

If I could get those two things working I'd be back in business!

 

[rocco123]

Seems that it needs reprogramed. Procedure in owners manual. I had issue recently with pwr locks , pwr seat memory and manual movement, and radio not shutting off when door opened that turned out to be a 7 1/2 amp fuse. No wiring problems found by the hinge. Fuse replaced & no further discrepancies noted. Guess it just overloaded by too much draw for some reason.

 

[BigRondo]

Thanks for trying BigR!

Things that are working:

My AC is back to normal.

My radio goes off when I open the door now.

All lights seem to work properly now.

Power locks work again.

Not working:
1. door keypad will lock the doors when pressing the two numbers at the same time, but the code will now work to unlock. I have the original code from the security module.
2. I get no reaction from the old key fob.

If I could get those two things working I'd be back in business!

When my radio would shut off when I opened the door it was the thin black ground wire in the boot.

You said the doors lock when you press the 7/8 & 9/0 keys at the same time. This tells me that those keys are working. Try pressing the other keys 1 at a time and check to see if the keypad lights up. Then wait for the light to go out and press the next key and check for the light. This will tell you if all the keys are working. If all the keys light up the keypad then I suspect broken wire(s) in the boot. If some of the keys do not light up the keypad it could be a faulty keypad or broken wires in the boot.

Some have had an issue with the tilt wheel putting pressure on the wires connected to the multifunction switch (MFS) & pulling the connector out. This will wreak havoc with the lights, turn signals, etc. Use my write-up for changing the MFS to gain access to the connector to check it and make sure it is fully seated. Click here to go to the write-up.

It is possible that the battery is weak or dead in your keyfob.

Fuses 16 & 27 in the fuse panel under driver side dash are related to the door locks & the central security module.

Good luck and keep us posted. I will help out all I can.

 

[Exproblems]

Seems that it needs reprogramed. Procedure in owners manual. I had issue recently with pwr locks , pwr seat memory and manual movement, and radio not shutting off when door opened that turned out to be a 7 1/2 amp fuse. No wiring problems found by the hinge. Fuse replaced & no further discrepancies noted. Guess it just overloaded by too much draw for some reason.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Hey Rocco,

Did the problem you had with the power locks have anything to do with the keychain remote "lock and unlock" buttons not working properly when you pressed the buttons? I've been having an issue with the "unlock" button mostly, not unlocking my drivers door 1st, before the other doors unlock. The drivers door should unlock on the first tap of the button, mine doesn't, and the other doors unlock on the 2nd tap of the unlock button as they should. It sometimes takes 5-7 taps of the unlock button to unlock my drivers door. The battery in the remote is new. Also, When locking up all the doors with the remote, the 2nd tap of the lock button should lock all the doors and set the alarm, but my drivers door sometimes doesn't lock and I have to tap the lock button again. It seems worse on unlocking the drivers door than when locking it up. Do you have any idea what might cause this to happen? Just wondering if you had the same type of problem with the remote and the power locks. I'm wondering if my remote needs to be reprogrammed to the system. Thanks for any info you can give. Sorry about the duplicate post below, don't know how that happened and didn't know how to delete/remove a post from the forum.

 

[Exproblems]

Seems that it needs reprogramed. Procedure in owners manual. I had issue recently with pwr locks , pwr seat memory and manual movement, and radio not shutting off when door opened that turned out to be a 7 1/2 amp fuse. No wiring problems found by the hinge. Fuse replaced & no further discrepancies noted. Guess it just overloaded by too much draw for some reason.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Hey Rocco,

Did the problem you had with the power locks have anything to do with the keychain remote "lock and unlock" buttons not working properly when you pressed the buttons? I've been having an issue with the "unlock" button mostly, not unlocking my drivers door 1st, before the other doors unlock. The drivers door should unlock on the first tap of the button, mine doesn't, and the other doors unlock on the 2nd tap of the unlock button as they should. It sometimes takes 5-7 taps of the unlock button to unlock my drivers door. The battery in the remote is new. Also, When locking up all the doors with the remote, the 2nd tap of the lock button should lock all the doors and set the alarm, but my drivers door sometimes doesn't lock and I have to tap the lock button again to get it to lock. It seems worse on unlocking the drivers door than when locking it up. Do you have any idea what might cause this to happen? Just wondering if you had the same type of problem with the remote and the power locks. I'm wondering if my remote needs to be reprogrammed to the system. Thanks for any info you can give.