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    1. myfoot

      myfoot Member

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      Got thinking this morning that as long as pulling the fuse seems to work for resetting the system why not rig a switch that runs to both sides of the fuse box? You'd need an inline fuse instead of the newer style but run a wire from one side thru a switch and fuse to the other side of where the blade fuse plugs in.

      Thoughts?
       
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    3. Joe Dirt

      Joe Dirt Explorer Addict

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      Seems like there shouldn't be a need to even do that. I wouldn't hack the wiring until they fix the issue.

      Prediction: Someone will mention the cost of the vehicle in the next 5 posts...
       
    4. myfoot

      myfoot Member

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      Oh I agree it's a short term solution at best.
       
    5. RandyH2

      RandyH2 Active Member

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      A $40k+++ vehicle shouldn't need a switch.

      :)

      The switch would be very easy to wire- use a dead or dummy fuse as a place holder, an inline fuse and switch, and some velcro. Once the system is fixed (glass is almost full, right?) it would be easy to remove the switch with no evidence it was ever installed. Installing the wiring with one of those tiny tiny tiny fuses would be a frustrating effort for me, but that is my dexterity, not yours.
       
    6. 1sttimeford

      1sttimeford New Member

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      Rather than fashion a "franken-fuse" ;) , why not get a battery cutoff switch for $8 and hook it to the negative terminal. First sign of HAL 9000 like behavior and <<click>>... <<click>>. :D

      [​IMG]
       
    7. M1911A1

      M1911A1 Member

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      wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
       
    8. myfoot

      myfoot Member

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      Yep that's kind of my thought too . How many amps is that fuse?
       
    9. sdm9465

      sdm9465 Active Member

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      20A

      I had the thought of wiring a remote switch and fuse in place of the existing fuse but I immediately realized it would take a lot more time to gear this up then would ever be saved by quicker resets.
       
    10. Loganfilm

      Loganfilm Elite Explorer

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      This is truly amazing.

      If one of you puts together a Frankenswitch kit to sell for this before Ford "fixes" it, every car rag will write about it and JD Power will knock the floor out even further.

      Are you reading this, Ford? This is what it's come to.

      Me carrying around a 10mm end wrench was bad enough. Now, this is getting comical. :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
       
    11. vfral1

      vfral1 Active Member

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      I had the same thought; "New Explorer owners resort to re-wire their vehicles, since the only solution Ford has is to pull the fuse". What an embarrasment for Ford and their designers.
       
    12. w1kedz

      w1kedz Guest

      Pulling a fuse is a perfectly valid temporary workaround (if in fact they were working on a perm fix), the issue here is that the fuse box is so poorly placed you need to be a highly skilled contortionist just to achieve this task. Whoever designed the access for the "user replaceable" fuses was a few screws short.
       
    13. myfoot

      myfoot Member

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      Allright I went up and looked at parts for this mod. The wire thickness for a 24 amp stand alone fuse harness is probably to thick for the size of the fuse that's in it at the moment. You would have to source a flat bladed pin with a crimp or solder connection at the top that could plug into the existing fuse box.
      I was thinking of this kind of mod so that you could eliminate the switch but would be easy to pull the fuse out of the harness to reset the sync.If I sourced the correct fuse the wire would not easily connect to a dead fuse without to much trouble. The one I looked at was similar to this one.
      http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102781&camp=PPC%3AGoogle

      It could be done but probably not easily. Perhaps Mouser or Digikey sells the correct pin but it was just thinking alound anyway ............
       

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