V8BoatBuilder's Off Road Buildup: Spring 2008

[AMMO_HOOAH]

It actually always pointed at the t-case it's just more visable now. I don't think the D/C front shaft is necassary if you have the disconnectable front axle which is one of the reasons I swaped my full time axle to a slectable one.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Yup, I really like my selectable axle, but I still run a DC driveshaft, only because I had it before the disconnectable axle swap. I occasionally click my axle on just to keep things working.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

It actually always pointed at the t-case it's just more visable now. I don't think the D/C front shaft is necassary if you have the disconnectable front axle which is one of the reasons I swaped my full time axle to a slectable one.

Not only is it more visible, but the pinion angle is indeed changed, due to the difference in the drop brackets. For it to be consistent, there would have needed to be a 3 1/2" drop in the rear as well. The superlift rotation is a good idea, as it solves d-shaft to x-member clearance issues.

If the axle is connected at high speed, then a DC shaft is needed. Otherwise it's not. But, since I want to retain my Auto-4wd for snow covered roads, I want to have 4wd at high speed.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

New custom brakelines!

Rubber fluid contact surface/stainless braid/plastic covering. All new, OEM style fittings with rubber chafe protection. Fronts extended 5", Rear extended 8"

Tested to 3000psi and DOT stamped.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Yup, the differential torque bracket changes the pinion angle slightly more pointing up.

 

[CDW6212R]

Those are nice brake lines Aaron, I hope to get to doing my rear brakes sometime this year.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Those are nice brake lines Aaron, I hope to get to doing my rear brakes sometime this year.

I'm wondering if I should have him make up the 4th line running to the pass side rear caliper. It doesn't need to be extended, and the rubber is fine, but will the difference between stainless and rubber cause the caliper fed by the rubber to not receive as much pressure as the rubber bulges, and thus brake unequally?

 

[Turdle]

I'm wondering if I should have him make up the 4th line running to the pass side rear caliper. It doesn't need to be extended, and the rubber is fine, but will the difference between stainless and rubber cause the caliper fed by the rubber to not receive as much pressure as the rubber bulges, and thus brake unequally?

yes it could-
or on the other hand would be the only "weak link" in the system, and now under a bit more stress I would think, due to the new hoses no longer bulging and relieving a bit of pressure throughout the system. Theoretically with the new stainless hoses, you'll be applying higher pressure all the way around now, which will expose the weak link to even more stress.

Like how we can spend your money?

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Like how we can spend your money?

If it wasn't for this forum, I'd have a down payment on a house.

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

If it wasn't for this forum, I'd have a down payment on a house.

HAHAHAHA!!! That is so true.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

New custom brakelines!

Rubber fluid contact surface/stainless braid/plastic covering. All new, OEM style fittings with rubber chafe protection. Fronts extended 5", Rear extended 8"

Tested to 3000psi and DOT stamped.

If you don't mind, what did those cost and do you think they'd make another set?

I've been thinking- old rubber lines could be contributing to my spongy brakes that I have been chasing for a while now.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

If you don't mind, what did those cost and do you think they'd make another set?

I've been thinking- old rubber lines could be contributing to my spongy brakes that I have been chasing for a while now.

Evan,

The fronts were $40/each and the rear was $55 because of the T/dual hose. They were made by a small shop here in NJ, and I'm sure they can make another set. I'll PM you their contact info.

Oh, btw, I never thanked you for the driveshaft, it came on Friday. Looks like she'll work, I'll find out later this week.

 

[CDW6212R]

It's not really noticeable the change from rubber hoses to SS. I have done both of my trucks for the front, not the back yet. My local stores has been about $25 each, give or take depending on the oddity of the fittings and whether a SS banjo bolt is used. There is a franchise brake line/fitting company which is evidently growing slowly. My store here bought the equipment etc, and there is a tiny building next door which may be a distributor of the franchise company. It is slick to watch them make them while you wait.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Popped the cover off the regeared D35, pattern looked good. Thoughts:

The pinion yoke is much harder to turn than my old unit, is this a problem or is this because the unit is newly setup?

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Reflaring the rear brake hardline:

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Front diffy looks good I'd spray that with some WD-40 until you get it installed and gear oil in it though.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Lots of progress:

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Brake line woes...

So my double-flare on the rear line didn't come out too hot, and I can't get a good seal. I'm hesitant to cut more off, and try again.

My thought is to use a 3/16" compression union to join the existing hardline to a peice of new hardline with a factory double flare, like the following picture I yoinked from a VW site.

Anyone see a problem with this?

 

[MountaineerGreen]

That's what I'd do-those fittings seal pretty well properly installed.

Superlift stuff looks good

Bright yellow knuckles?

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

That's what I'd do-those fittings seal pretty well properly installed.

Superlift stuff looks good

Bright yellow knuckles?

Yellow knuckles indeed!! The whole things needs to be painted POR-15 black, but I want to get her running (and wheeling) before the purtyness comes.

Front is mostly done, tomorrow I hope to finish it up and start on the rear.