LD50 Full-size axle thread `93 Ex

[IZwack]

Tacking the caps on works, i do a triangle of 3 really hot tacks and take your time inbetween doing each one so you dont burn the seals out of the joints.

I did that on my last D44 shafts, and I was sadened that one still popped out (and almost killed Draper who was spotting me).

So this got me thinking - basically there are multiple variables, point of failures and scenarios which all lead to a dead axle shaft. For example: the yoke elongates and the U-joint caps pop out and the U-joint eventually breaks taking the yoke with it. Or, one of the U-joint's cross breaks first which puts extra stress on the other three which eventually destroys the U-joint and the shaft itself. And so on -- but all of them will almost always lead to a dead axle shaft and a dead U-joint. So I figured, since the axle shaft and the U-joints almost always have to be replaced at the same time, why not eliminate the possiblity of the caps popping off and weld them straight into the yokes? Not just three or four tacks, but tack it all the way around waiting a few minutes every now and then to let the whole thing cool down. Doing so should hopefully minimize/eliminate the possiblity of the caps coming out and maybe this thing can be shaved down to a single point of failure - the U-joint's body.

[/CrazyTalk]

 

[sn0border88]

...[/CrazyTalk]

Im not so sure about that. I would bet that the heat from the welding, even if you cooled it off between welds would be enough to warp the cap and cause it to bind and wear unevenly. Possibly end up destroying your needle bearings, causing the joint to seize and overall making the problem worse.

Also, even if you manage to weld the cap on without any distorsion and manage to keep the ears from getting hard after welding and becoming prone to fracture its still much more likely to fail out here than in the beefy cross section of the joint.

The only improvements I can see coming from welding on axle yokes or u-joint caps is beefing up the little tabs that are on driveshaft yokes that have the u-bolts. Tacking on the caps isnt a bad idea, but I think it should be done on top of properly installed circle clips or as a trail fix.

 

[ld50]

If they dont use a full circle clip, they at least have to use the little moon clip. The little moon clips are bad about jumping off and letting the cap pop out. Once a cap goes, the joint will bind up in the ear and still work until something breaks.

yeah, sorry it`s the clips which clip on the inside of the yokes, nothing on the outside, I guess we would call them moon clips.

Iz, interesting idea, last time my outer yokes elongated and the inner seemed fine, both caps were gone from the stub side. I noticed it after a hill climb, and unlocked. Going any further, or had it been a longer climb I likely would have ended up with what I have now. I don't know though, welding it all up is pretty final. I`m pondering the tacking plan with a higher quality U-joint. In all honesty I really went cheap on those joints, maybe just better joints would suffice..

I am processing some of the videos from my trip and I know I have the footage, I`m going to upload a clip of me breaking the joint.
Maybe I was too hard on it I dunno. I`ll let you guys critique me -stand by....

 

[ld50]

Well here you go, was longer than I thought till I gave up, I am pretty sure my buddy was filming on the other side, but I don't have any footage from him yet. His angle should actually better tell the tale of when she broke.

http://www.explorerforum.com/files/9935/whip 09-xvid.avi

Hey wait! Room for some pics here!
Hope-Whipsaw-Hope loop '09
Around 350 km and 8 hrs off-road driving in this trip, woohooo!

 

[lifeguard379]

i cant see the vid.

 

[ld50]

Right click save as? It worked for me when I did that but did not seem to open by just clicking on it.

I actually can hear it break when I turn it up. It definitely happened when I came to a stop. There was a buried log or a stump there that stopped me, if I was two feet left, well...I'd a been a hero.

 

[Burns]

Im currently having the same problem as you. I am having good luck with my passenger side axle shafts. Breaking at least 2 a year.

 

[lifeguard379]

all i get is a sound clip. is it just me? lol

 

[Burns]

Ok just did it and all i get is sound

 

[ld50]

Darn it, well I`ll have to try to figure it out after work, lol. Sorry to tease.
It`s just an xvid I don't get it.

 

[ld50]

youtube
*I took my breakage clip out of my youtube videos, this is the completed full length video from the trip. You can see the breakage in there too.

Some pics from the trip can be found here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103898

 

[Shen2187]

Nice!

Very nice set-up you have going here.

 

[ld50]

Well I replaced the broken shafts and u-joint on the D44.
I also replaced the lower ball joint on that side as well because it took quite a beating onto the threads and nut. It was basically unremovable with a wrench anymore.
The lower ball joint nut is a low profile affair, not as big and strong as the upper castle nut is. The nut was very easy to blow apart with an oxy-acetylene cutting torch in order to get the joint out.

I replaced the u-joints with non-greasable spicer replacements and did not opt for any sort of welding or tacking of the caps.

I have a new issue with my 9 inch housing, it has a crack in the weld where the rear cover is welded on, and has a slow leak there. It was hard to see in the pic so I highlighted about where it is with red. Once I get it off the truck and cleaned up I am going to do a little mag particle inspection on it just for fun.

Anyway, it is a symptom of stress on the housing created by the pinion turning the ring gear plus regular abuse; I must eliminate that stress. At this point I am still researching truss methods, but that is the next project for sure.

 

[Kirby N.]

TNT customs or treks offroad makes some sweet trusses for axles. I know they make one for the 44 and I think they make one for the 9 too. There is a truss that welds accross the back that is super cool for the 9s. No worries about clearance if it is accross the back and they can do it becuase it has the removable center section.

 

[james t]

Ive got another 9" housing just like the one im running now that im going to build up here in a about a month. Im trussing it across the back and the top. Watch my "re-sas" thread if you want any ideas.

Keep in mind if you dont use an alignment bar its really easy to warp the housing. Tack your truss on, then weld in 1" increments very slowly. Spread your weld runners out as you go, and i like to keep a blanket over the housing in between welding and once finished so it will cool down as slow as possible. Its a sheet metal housing and i dont think any of them are straight from the factory. 50% chance you will warp it back in the right direction, 50% chance you will make it worse. :

 

[ld50]

I am wondering about keeping it straight, what is an alignment bar? Can I make one myself? I've been pondering a solution to that problem/risk.
There is a Canadian outfit that supplies the 'across the back' truss that I figure I should go for, but another acroos the top would be pretty sweet

 

[ld50]

Hey all!
Got some tips from some long career welders I work with on type of rod, good starting point for weld amperage and anti-warping techniques. I don't have the info handy right now I wrote it down at work. I will use the arc welder though.
Anyway, I wanna make my own, and there are alot of opinions out there on where and how.

Here are three designs I have found, I kind of like the first one (but I think he put too much weld on it
), and the third looks odd. I still haven't stripped off the axle, new baby and all, but I`m threatening to now, and eventually that will morph into actual work.

What do y'all think?

 

[fordxranger]

I say go for the second one, it puts added strength right where you cracked the weld on your housing. the first one looks cool, but I dunno if he plated the bottom too or just the top with sheet. it looks unnecessarily big too, I think out towards the ends he could have eliminated the need to bend it by just making the one middle bend bigger and then notching the tube ends to fit on the housing. the third one seems unnecessary unless you plan on linking it. while its out, you should shave and plate it like this guy did...........................

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=934582

 

[Trckmagik]

I had the 2nd one on my 9" and it worked great. I ordered it from Jegs.com for next to nothing in comparison.
It was very easy to work with as it was cut to a perfect match.

 

[ld50]

I like the second one as well. I`m not sold on the whole trim a bit off the bottom though, but I'll have a look at everything as I go.