Completed Project - Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread | Page 12 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Completed Project Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread

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I used some 3/16" plate to box in the back of the radius arm brackets. They aren't finished so there is a little more to do on them. DA them and paint so it really all looks like one piece. I will also be welding the 3/16" plate to the frame so it ties the brackets in to the bottom of the frame as well.

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I welded it up and did some rough metal finishing. I think they look good. I added a few holes and a notch type thing to add a little character to the brackets. Not to mention the additional strength it adds.

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I rolled the back down towards the frame to try and match the contour of the main bracket plates.
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Pictures make that notch look not even lengths but they are I assure you.
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Lower link axle brackets. These are made of 1/4" steel plate as well. I decided to run them the full height from the axle up the truss. They should look good when done but a little bit of work to make.

Using a vertical band saw to cut out the pieces.
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Marked out where the bushing will be. Same radius of course so it looks really good. When the bushing is in it. Then the hole drilled in center for bolt.
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Both outer axle brackets tacked together and drilled while together.
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Here is the inside of the outer bracket welded up. Now I can bolt the link to the brackets and make the inner bracket. This allows me to see exactly what length and things the inside lower link bracket needs to be. Since the link comes to the axle at an angle they are different lengths.

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Remember the transmission cross member frame mounts shown in earlier posts? Well time to use them. They will go up against the frame with 1/2" bolts through the center to hold them to the frame and also make it removable.

First section of the cross member bend and tube notched to the mount. The mounts are 2"X.250 DOM and the cross member tube is 1 1/2"X.120 wall. Used a big vise grip to hole the mount to the frame, and got the cross member tube tacked to it.

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And a few picks of how the cross member is coming. It is bent to clear the exhaust and then is notched to the U bend that I made so the drive shaft will clear since now it will be moving up and down with the front diff. There will be a gusset from the u bend to the center section of the tube. From the tube there will be a mount made to attach and hold the transmission and T-Case. I am happy with how it is turning out. I think it looks great!

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Ok... Damn! Jealous I am, yes, mmmhh. So I'm a newbie let's get that out of the way, hip with some of the lingo but curious as to what is meant by "SAS"
 






SAS = Solid Axle Swap

...and this is a mighty fine one at that.

I often hear people say that coilover shock hoops should have 3+ points hitting the frame. Have you thought about adding a 3rd support tube? I know you're obviously not done, but I haven't seen you mention that yet. It looks like you have room to hit the top of the frame. I mostly see this in desert trucks, which see much higher impacts and larger forces than crawlers, but I don't think it could hurt.

And you've mentioned trying to get the prettiest welds you can...you can use the tig w/o filler rod to go over welds and make them prettier if you aren't satisfied, can't you?

And the F150 axle install turned out great! Unfortunately I don't think I have the patience to do all of that work myself haha.

Anxiously awaiting more progress...:)
 






Yes i plan to have 2 points at least to the frame. I will also have a cross bar that will tie both hoops together as well so they help support each other. That will be removable.

Yes I could run the TIG over things to clean them up some. But it really doesn't look as good as doing it right the first time. Also to get the TIG to melt a pool big enough to clean up what most of this 1/4" has been MIG'ed would put WAY to much heat into the areas. It would also have to be hotter than what most of the 220 TIG's can do anyways. And the truck doesn't fit into the engine room where that HUGE 440V TIG machine is. Needless to say there isn't an extension cord for that one! :)

I should have more pics up tonight. Hard to work on it all morning, come home, watch the baby and get the house packed up each day, lol. I'm tired every day!
 












And with the U part trimmed and all the joints welded up. Made some round caps for the U bend after these pictures and welded them on to close it up.

Turned out great. The holes in the mount are drilled and tomorrow I will drill holes in the frame so we can mount this to the frame. Then building the part that goes from the trans mount to this cross member. Hope I get to it, doing rear shock mounts and brake line mounts tomorrow as well.

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I got the upper link mounts done today. All mounts are 1/4" plate and the upper tubes are 1.5"X.250 wall. These where a pain since the uppers attach to the axle at an angle each mount for the upper link has to be done separate.

Here they are tacked in place. I did the axle side first with an outer mount on each side so that I could use that to hold the link and also move it to where I wanted it to attach to the lower links. I could then cut the link to length and slide in the lower Johnny Joint and then use the lower link mounts to hold that side of the link. I then could tack in place the axle side bracket. Then I could make the inner axle mounts for the uppers.

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Glad I had enough room with the axle holders still in place.
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Here are some pictures of the passenger side outer. I used the outers first and centered the mounting holes on the truss the inners would be towards the back of the truss. This keeps the upper link mounts at the axle towards the back a little of flush with the front. This will help with room for the trac bar when that goes in. Also the passenger side upper axle bolt is the same height as the one on the drivers side up on top of the diff.

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Here is the inner upper axle mount fit in place. Its not finished and corners rounded etc in these pictures this is just to fit for size. By the way I use a lot of like cereal or cheese it boxes to make patterns first then I transfer it to steel.

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